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Can I hit these numbers with these mods?

  • not even close to 200 whp

    Votes: 32 25%
  • around 200whp

    Votes: 84 66%
  • a bit more than 200whp

    Votes: 11 8.7%
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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I would say I/H/E, cams/gears/springs, tune, polyurethane mounts, TB, IM, and a little bit higher compression....that should put you close to 185whp, I think... might need a lighter flywheel and upgraded clutch for all that too...
 
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Lighter flywheels increase your whp, but also cause you problems in daily driving. The SVT's didn't have as much of an issue with it because- from what I understand, the SVT had a larger flywheel. With the Duratec, you should understand that if you put an 8 lb flywheel on your car you will either stall on hills, or spin out every time. Also, you can expect this to be twice as bad in the rain. I would not recommend it for anyone who lives in a hilly area.

An old friend of mine who's very familiar with elmination drag racing told me about his experiences with aluminum flywheels on his race cars. It gives you a leg up at the start, but less of a push when you shift gears. Think about it, and you'll see it's simple physics: speed x weight = force. When you hit second gear would you rather have 6k x 23lbs of force, or 6k x 8 lbs of force? From what Charlie told me, it evens out on the strip.

The bummer for your daily driver is that once you've spent $400 on an aluminum flywheel, and then had it installed- if you don't like it or you can't drive it in the rain- what are you going to do?
 
also i might be able to add to this mix is... my friend is starting to port heads for like LS1's etc... and im starting to look for a 2.0L duratec head i can give to him and let him work slowly at it...

so far.... intake, exhaust... header... cams... springs and valves for the stage 2 cams... hopefully we'll see something about walter's IM soon...
 
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doesnt the 2.3 also work tho?

maybe the 2.0 will be cheaper cuz there gonna make more of them for the fact theres more 2.0 out then the 2.3
 
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WELL... we did have a big discussion on here before, and someone found info sayin that cossie was NOT gonna make a manifold just for the 2.0... but if they did... it would be ALOT better than the one they have now, b/c it'll be reworked to work better with the 2.0 rather than the 2.3....
 
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also i might be able to add to this mix is... my friend is starting to port heads for like LS1's etc... and im starting to look for a 2.0L duratec head i can give to him and let him work slowly at it...

so far.... intake, exhaust... header... cams... springs and valves for the stage 2 cams... hopefully we'll see something about walter's IM soon...
That will work! Even better with a tune.

About the Cossie manifold on a 2.0: A long time ago I wondered if perhaps welding some of those Syclone (I believe that's the name) intake swirlers in there would help to restrict a bit of flow. That's the original company that started that idea before Turbonator stole it. NOT that this makes it a quality product, or that it works like they say it does- just that for the purpose of restricting the flow a bit, it might actually do something.

The best way to make the Cossie manifold work on the D20 is just put a big freaking cam in it. Go balls to the wall, race only, high compression, and you'll be fine with the manifold as is.

I still say turbo is the best way to make power out of the Duratec. Although I would be partial to investing in a stroked D23 if such is available when I decide that I have enough money in assets to spend on my car.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
true... the only reason the current Cossie IM doesnt work is because it is too big causing a loss in wtq... there are whp gains though...
 
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I'm really not sure why everyone things the Cosworth manifold would be an issue on a d20. As for the cosworth manifold being too big, it will be fine on a 2.0. Keep in mind that the d20 has higher compression and a different head than the d23. The head design and higher compression are going to make for less torque loss I would imagine, and since you aren't going to actually lose torque over stock anyway, as long as you are ready to rev that d20 up, you should be totally fine. I'm confident that it wouldn't make any noticable difference in daily driving. Keep in mind, the first d23 cars to get the manifold came stock with 3.42 gears and they were happy, all d20 manual cars come with 3.82 gears. Manifold + intake + header + exhaust + cams = high reving fun....if you can get tuning for the manifold.

The theoretical issue with the manifold is runner length. Shorter runners aren't for making low end torque, they are for making upper rpm power. Even then, with just stage I crane cams, it would work fine.
 
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Discussion starter · #31 ·
of either motor... the 2.5 would be a little shorter life though because bore and stroke... the stroked 2.3 is just stroked and therefore will last a bit longer than the 2.5... either way, working on that motor will become a hobby... lol
 
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true... the only reason the current Cossie IM doesnt work is because it is too big causing a loss in wtq... there are whp gains though...
The longer runners will actually help increase torque.
Whynot put a 2.3 head on, and a cam made to go with it, and then it would respond well from better flow, and the Cossie intake will work. It just will not give you the same top end if the intake had shorter runners.
 
The longer runners will actually help increase torque.
Whynot put a 2.3 head on, and a cam made to go with it, and then it would respond well from better flow, and the Cossie intake will work. It just will not give you the same top end if the intake had shorter runners.
The Cosworth manifold has really short runners. It is a lot like the ITB setup with a plenum around it. I wouldn't even mess with the manifold unless you got a bigger cam too (in a D20). If you can get them, Crane stage Is are bigger than Cosworth's street cams and would surely help out on a D20 with the Cossie manifold.
 
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The Cosworth manifold has really short runners. It is a lot like the ITB setup with a plenum around it. I wouldn't even mess with the manifold unless you got a bigger cam too (in a D20). If you can get them, Crane stage Is are bigger than Cosworth's street cams and would surely help out on a D20 with the Cossie manifold.
I stand corrected. I got it mixed up. The Cossie has short runners and is good for top end.
 
Who is close to 200 with a 2.0?

with 12 compression you wont be able to run on 93 octane

Your list is short about 3ooo.oo worth of parts , I would use the 2.3 head , cosi intake , 3 inch exh and ,larger exh valves and a few other things

If you can stand 12 compression and use 100 octane all the time your goal of 200 can be met with out a lot of trouble at all

Tom
You can absolutely run 12.5:1 compression on 91 octane, safely, every day. I have several customers, and my own car running this compression ratio, safely for over a year now. The 11.6:1 cars don't quite have the pop the 12.5:1 cars have, but they too run excellent on 91 octane, and can tolerate a few degrees more timing in the tune.

The 2.3L head is not needed for a 2.0L unless it's an all out assault. The 2.0L head can easily support 200whp in stock form on a 2.0L, and much more with a small amount of targeted work.

Four years playing with the Duratec will learn you a thing or two about it.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
haha... a lot!!! clutch/flywheel, higher compression head, Intake Manifold, Throttle body... maybe injectors too... and remember higher compression means ur putting more pressure on ur pistons and rods... u'll need to get billet rods and pistons to take the increase in c/r
 
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I think the D20 can be around 200 easilly if raised compression and runned with slightley more RPM's... without even touching the head... but if you want to max it out more you'll HAVE to use "Individual Throttle Bodies" or "ITB's"... it is using more then one throttle body to achive the same TOTAL throttle body area but with SMALLER diameter throttle bodies... the smaller diameter increases the velocity of the charge >>> ITB's Wiki <<< in the UK ALOT of 2.0's that is used in kit cars are easily ABOVE 200 whp, here is Shawspeed who are specialized in Duratec's >>> Shawspeed Duratec's <<< and here is someone's succesful attempt to reach 200 whp using the 2.3 Duratec by just fitting piston's, some balancing, and a standalone >>> 200+ whp 2.3 Duratec <<< what i want to say is... Duratec's got potintial more then you think!!!
 
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