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I was anxious all the time about pulling out the big part that has the two rubber flaps! I was thinking that even tho, nothing will (most likely) go wrong I didn't wanna take my chances! and to me i did not feel any noticeable throttle response changes which made it pointless to me! so I decided to pop it back in. walking to the car with my the part all I was thinking was " how the hell am I going to get this back in there! A minute and a half later it was in! I always thought that instead of cutting it! Why not just hold the flap back so that is when I "Ghetto" rigged this up until I can find beefier brackets! I'm going get three metal clips two meal bars weld the bars to the clips then clamp down on the flap like in the picture

CURRENT:
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BAR NAPKIN IDEA:
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I took out my snorkel and am thinking about cutting the flaps. I was initially going to take out that whole assembly with the flaps, but am thinking that you could potentially be decreasing air flow by taking it out.

That is, that assembly blocks off three sides and has the flaps at the top, so air can get into the intake. When the grille shutters close, that forces air to go up through the flaps. Without the assembly in place and the other three sides being blocked, air will just go all around the shutters instead of being redirected to the top flaps and into the intake.

So I was looking at how much a replacement assembly would cost if I ever had to replace mine when I cut the flaps. Tried looking around Ford parts, but couldn't find it. Can anyone find it on Ford Parts and let us know how much it costs?
 
I took out my snorkel and am thinking about cutting the flaps. I was initially going to take out that whole assembly with the flaps, but am thinking that you could potentially be decreasing air flow by taking it out.

That is, that assembly blocks off three sides and has the flaps at the top, so air can get into the intake. When the grille shutters close, that forces air to go up through the flaps. Without the assembly in place and the other three sides being blocked, air will just go all around the shutters instead of being redirected to the top flaps and into the intake.

So I was looking at how much a replacement assembly would cost if I ever had to replace mine when I cut the flaps. Tried looking around Ford parts, but couldn't find it. Can anyone find it on Ford Parts and let us know how much it costs?
Dont cut! Just fold! ;)
 
And would I see benefit from removing the air box lid after a flap fold? (I'd use a prefilter for water)


Sent while Slideways
 
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this is my set up along with the flap bending! I feel much more throttle response and i get that amazing sound that turns heads! And the flap bending may only be 60% irreversible but flap cutting is 100% irreversible and I did take the whole flap unit out but found no difference and only increased amounts of anxiety with warranty!
 
You know, another thing I was thinking about is insulating the intake lines and box. Let me know if I'm wrong, but the CAIs have these fancy heat shields to keep the engine heat away from the intake air. Wouldn't putting some sort of insulation around the stock intake system achieve the same thing (maybe not as effectively, but the same principle)?
 
In my honest opinion, if you can remove the airbox lid and fab a heat shield, you have a CAI. If you fab a intake tube out of aluminum, you have a nice CAI


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Discussion starter · #171 ·
When you remove the airbox lid, you lose the negative pressure in the ducting that leads to the radiator support opening. This will cause your intake to be consuming mainly underhood air. Even with a fabricated shield to emulate the big-name companies, you will still acquire a certain amount of heat-soak.

That being said, I don't think that it is overly detrimental. There will be a bit of cool air forced through the ducting due to the pressure difference of the front of the radiator support and the intake box along with some cooler air that enters around the headlight. I inspected the sealing of the Typhoon when it was on my car for testing and found that there was actually a large amount of area for underhood air to bypass the shield. Just looking at pictures of the Steeda intake I would have to assume the same applies to it as well.

All of that being said, my best recommendation is always to experiment. What works for me and my commute does not necessarily apply to anyone elses. I wanted my power to be lower in the rpm range. This allows me better response and fuel mileage. If I drove in a more 'spirited' manner and was willing to spend more money, I would be sporting a name-brand intake...

I have been toying with the idea of wrapping some of the tract though...[thumb]
 
When you remove the airbox lid, you lose the negative pressure in the ducting that leads to the radiator support opening. This will cause your intake to be consuming mainly underhood air. Even with a fabricated shield to emulate the big-name companies, you will still acquire a certain amount of heat-soak.

That being said, I don't think that it is overly detrimental. There will be a bit of cool air forced through the ducting due to the pressure difference of the front of the radiator support and the intake box along with some cooler air that enters around the headlight. I inspected the sealing of the Typhoon when it was on my car for testing and found that there was actually a large amount of area for underhood air to bypass the shield. Just looking at pictures of the Steeda intake I would have to assume the same applies to it as well.

All of that being said, my best recommendation is always to experiment. What works for me and my commute does not necessarily apply to anyone elses. I wanted my power to be lower in the rpm range. This allows me better response and fuel mileage. If I drove in a more 'spirited' manner and was willing to spend more money, I would be sporting a name-brand intake...

I have been toying with the idea of wrapping some of the tract though...[thumb]
like this?
Image
 
When you remove the airbox lid, you lose the negative pressure in the ducting that leads to the radiator support opening. This will cause your intake to be consuming mainly underhood air. Even with a fabricated shield to emulate the big-name companies, you will still acquire a certain amount of heat-soak.

That being said, I don't think that it is overly detrimental. There will be a bit of cool air forced through the ducting due to the pressure difference of the front of the radiator support and the intake box along with some cooler air that enters around the headlight. I inspected the sealing of the Typhoon when it was on my car for testing and found that there was actually a large amount of area for underhood air to bypass the shield. Just looking at pictures of the Steeda intake I would have to assume the same applies to it as well.

All of that being said, my best recommendation is always to experiment. What works for me and my commute does not necessarily apply to anyone elses. I wanted my power to be lower in the rpm range. This allows me better response and fuel mileage. If I drove in a more 'spirited' manner and was willing to spend more money, I would be sporting a name-brand intake...

I have been toying with the idea of wrapping some of the tract though...[thumb]
Where exactly does the air "come from" with aftermarket intakes such as the steeda? I miss the simplicity of my 13 inch air cleaner sitting atop my TB with an open cowl on my Dakota haha. I was never thinking about vacuums and whatnot. The whole "technology" car thing is a bit new to me, but I'm doing my best to research and learn, primarily from the seemingly infinite knowledge that I receive from FF. anyway, back to my actual question, how does the steeda work?


Sent while Slideways
 
Where exactly does the air "come from" with aftermarket intakes such as the steeda? I miss the simplicity of my 13 inch air cleaner sitting atop my TB with an open cowl on my Dakota haha. I was never thinking about vacuums and whatnot. The whole "technology" car thing is a bit new to me, but I'm doing my best to research and learn, primarily from the seemingly infinite knowledge that I receive from FF. anyway, back to my actual question, how does the steeda work?


Sent while Slideways
They suck under hood air, just like when taking the top off of the airbox. If there is a heatshield that seals to the hood, then they suck from behind the headlight, which is open to the left front triangle area and lower valance/wheelwell. Any that reuse the factory intake tubes get partial air from the whiskers area.


Looking at my modded airbox, the factory tubes get air from the whiskers, the 3" tube gets air from left triangle, the holes get air from behind the drivers headlight.
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And what about negative pressure?


Sent while Slideways
Throttle plate controls manifold pressure.

This pic is of my filter/outerwears. The dirt pattern is from directly over the outlet of the 3" tube. It is definitely getting the airflow to that point, so I have all the negative pressure I need.
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Hmm interesting, thank you. So does your setup run without a lid then? And you're running the newmission right?


Sent while Slideways
 
Hmm interesting, thank you. So does your setup run without a lid then? And you're running the newmission right?


Sent while Slideways
Full lid, newmission tube, Torquerules holes, OEM++

I'm thinking about the Green filter with open end too. Someday, when we get tuning, I will dyno this setup.
 
Just did this. Whoever said they did it in 10 min should change their member name to Pinocchio.....lol. It takes that long just to get the tools out and pop the hood. I'd say it takes 30-40 minutes for the average person. Anyways, it should be added that I took the two t-25 screws out on both sides for more room. I didn't see that in the description on the first page and I found it to be helpful. We'll see how everything works/sounds with the new Steeda intake.
 
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