Are the swirl flaps on the 2.0 sohc? Not sure what they are?

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Are the swirl flaps on the 2.0 sohc? Not sure what they are?

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Nope, the dtec's have them...Basically to swirl/tumble the air going into the head.

 

Here is a pic of the engine. I assume its the DOHC model. I didn't know there were 2 models of the 2.0L. I thought there was only one for 2005. Is the procedure different for the different models? Would it matter about how to delete the swirl flaps?

 

Here is a pic of the engine. I assume its the SOHC model. I didn't know there were 2 models of the 2.0L. I thought there was only one for 2005. Is the procedure different for the different models? Would it matter about how to delete the swirl flaps?

Try looking at this.

http://www.talkford.com/community/index.php?/topic/201881-2.0-Inlet-Flaps-Removal


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There's only one engine for the 2005 focus in the USA/Canada, and it's the DOHC Duratec engine.

Take a look at the long bumps in front & behind the spark plug coils, those cover the two cams.

You can leave the actuator operational to avoid codes, holes that need to be plugged are any that lead to the OUTSIDE of the intake manifold (vacuum leaks).

 

holes that need to be plugged are any that lead to the OUTSIDE of the intake manifold (vacuum leaks).

And the internal ones where the rod goes through.

 

Yeah sorry I meant DOHC. Went back and edited the post to say DOHC.

But thanks to all for the replies. So basically all you do, is seal up all the holes, between each intake runner. Then plug everything back up, like normal.

I was curious about leaving the actuator operation... without it having anything to be able to "actuate". Essentially it can't tell if its actually doing anything, it will just try to move the rod and nothing will happen. Do I have this right so far?

Also, one of my "inserts" (as per the how to guide in the link) crumbled into bits as I was taking it out. Another cracked. I was being careful, I know better than to strong arm stuff like this. But, i guess they had just seen too many heat cycles. Do I have to use the inserts? Given the way I've seen some other manifolds mate up to other engines over the years, I would assume that the answer is no. That you do not actually need those inserts that used to hold onto the flaps. Some manifolds just don't really seem to care about an ultra smooth transition. But I just thought I'd ask.

 

You'd want to leave the actuator working, as you'll have no cel & its not hurting anything. Like Sailor mentioned above, you'd want to plug all the holes that go to the outside such as the actuator linkage on the drivers side.

 

Thanks guys. You've all been a very big help. I have to say that I was quite relieved to find out that this noise wasn't something wrong with the head.

 

Try removing the vacuum line going to the actuator, which is right below the t/b & see if you like the throttle response or not. Say how many miles are on your car?

 

156k miles on the odometer

Didn't know about removing the vacuum line lol.

 

Ok! Sooo, let me get this straight. Regular, old "JB Weld" which is made for metal, is used to fill holes in some sort of plastic???!! It actually bonds?? That doesn't seem any safer than having those pieces of metal and plastic that can break apart and destroy your engine. Wouldn't you want to use a epoxy made for plastic??! I have been, briefly, looking into doing this and can't really find any defanite answer on what type of plastic is used, but I still don't see how a agent made to bond metal will bond to the plastic safely.
Correct me if I'm wrong!! Was looking at the "JB Plastic Bond". ?????

 

You could remove the flaps only and reinstall the rod and actuator. The rod will rotate, but there will be no flaps. You won't have to epoxy anything this way

 

There is really no such thing as a plastic specific epoxy. The base material has nothing nearly so much to do with it (usually, not always though) as the actual surface which is better super rough to give the epoxy some bite. Fuel fits in there too, fuel makes epoxy release and even though the intake is considered a dry one the fuel will come back up in it with reversion under certain engine conditions so fuel and at least fuel vapors can affect the epoxy along with engine heat due to the proximity of the intake to motor. The only thing plastic can do is to be much worse to stick to as some are high oily based (ALL plastic is oil based to begin with) and the higher oil content makes the epoxy tend to come loose easily.

You need no rod as long as exterior vacuum leaks are taken care of, the engine will never notice the channels joining the individual runners, that simply becomes plenum area which the engine can use.

If epoxy used it will work MUCH better with reinforcement in it, say the rod, glue it in place and the thinner cross-sections of the epoxy then last forever. It's unreinforced epoxy that comes loose the easiest.

 

thank you all for your input. amc49, thank you for lesson plastic and bonding agents. So Wednesday to doc appt and on the way back stopped at my old to use their temp gun on the intake, since that was really the factor I could find that would make a differance, aside one of them not recomonding use on polyethile and another polyethile something. I drive the thing pretty hard most the time, according to others anyway! LOL And was in a bit of a hurry cause I was running late always, and beat google by about 5mins or more, and intake temp was only, and this is the hottest place I found in between the 2 middle ruunners, 177F! Pretty impressive if you ask me! So with the question weather or not there is plastic specific, and temperature anwserd and that epoxy would mos def be the way to, definitely should putting the rail back in, we pretty much have our answer friends! The riddle is solved!! So ladies and gentlemen, swirl flap delete will be coming soon! With that swirl flap delete, will be see the install of a 180 degree thermostat install, the ford contour one "Modifications done by Frye's Auto of course, with a fan sensor bypass and a new PCV in the near future! Only have to order PCV, online cheaper than part store. Autozone dosent have the one for Focus anyway had have them look up a mazada 3, $25 and some change. Probibly $10 or less on amazon! LOL

Taken the New Skool & doin it Old Skool!! Who says you need a tune to get your fans to kick on?? If you want to get fancy about it, amazon has a stand alone sensor and harness for $30!Don't know about y'all, but I'll save my for the tune, till I really have something to work with! I also got rid of that POS lifetime filter. Put a $8 amazon filter on it. Can't even tell its there unless your really, really lookin! If anyone is intristed in that let me know, I've got pics. And all I paid for was my filter and a 32oz Gatorade.

 

While your there, swap out the pcv hose......I went w/ dorman.....

 

Polyethylene plastic = the oily base stuff I was talking about, virtually no epoxy will stick to that. 3M makes something for it at like $90 a small tube I think.

The intake will be made of either FRP or ABS.

 

Cool!! Thank you so much! Getting ready to di into it now. amc49 your knowledge of plastics/epoxy is exactly the info i was concerned about. Will be doing quite a bit work behind that intake today and really didnt want to jump into being unsure. Will also be moding the thermo housing to except a 180% thermo. Is there anything I should know while working this?? I would imagine it's made of the same stuff, no??

 

Good advice on the pcv. Im doing the delete to a oil catch can! But now a new issue has arisen!!!! I bougt the thermo recommended, cut the towers off, like a dumb ass, with out looking at the port for it!! LMFAO
Now I'm stuck with no thermo. Trying to figure out how to secure it!! Fricken rookie move!! Any ideas aside from the obvious??

 

The intake is made from reinforced nylon 6/6. Make sure to find a cement that is compatible.

 

There is likely a way to recoup the part but cannot say what that might be since I'm not faced with it.

 

For the cost of a new themostat, you might as well buy another and chalk the price of the old one up to "things I should think about before doing next time".
My list of those is extensive...

 

LMFAO! Yea, sooo, I eneded up drilling the holes all the way through, got narrow machine screws and nuts, and JB weld through tje holes with the screws, and around the outside, Can't see the mess I made when its all together anyway, found aa new gasket, had to have the part store look up 07 Mzazda. Tonite is the nite I shall see how it all goes!! Would have been done sooner, but I can't deal with 100+ temps to well anymore, and I kept forgetting what a greasy nasty mess I still had to finish cleaning since, from the looks of it no one ever really turned a wrench on it maintenance wise.
Thanks for all the help guys!! Your awesome. I will let you all know how it works out! Leora83, I as well have a long list!! LOL I noticed however, looking online that there are 2 diferant styles of thermostat housings. 1 with the 2 towers, wich is the one I have of course, and the other looks like it accepts, or could, accept a standard thermostat, much easier, $15 on amazon. So thats the next step in the thermostat debacile.
By the way, any of you know how small the picture size has to be on here?? Aparently my camera takes to high a quality photo. Would like to share the escapade with every one, so y'all know what NOT to do, and what worked or works.

Thanks again guys!!

will be looking into getting a 2.3 head and intake, I really need to get on the ball with learning this tuning!!

 

Thanks again guys!!

will be looking into getting a 2.3 head and intake, I really need to get on the ball with learning this tuning!!

If your wanting a 23 head......Go w/ a escape 23 i/m which doesn't have the imrc, but still uses the imtv all the 23's use.

 

That's right!! Thanks for the info!! Any specific years??

 

All the Escape 23's.....

 

Ok guys! Results are in! She runs amazingly!!! Took a fan relay out and ran wires into the cab, to a switch, it likes to stay at about 178. Love It!! And she just spins the tires off in second!! Haven't done a 0-60 time yet. Was gonna last night but when I went to take I lost tail lights, which turned into a whole nother big thing just to find out that I have been looking at the wrong fuse diagram for the last 2 years!! LMFAO Anyways you guys are a big help!! And was that that said I needed a tune to have a Tune to have my fans kick on when I wanted and for it to run properly?? Save the tune for when you ya do a little more under the hood I say!! There are dirt cheap ways to make More Power!! We just can't forget the old lessons, allot of them will still work! If your willing to put in the effort!!
Until Next Time!!

 

Bear in mind that if you take the fan 'on' signal away from the PCM then you do NOT get the normal idle speed boost the PCM gives when it detects the fans are about to come on. That can result in the idle dropping low to try to die when the fans kick on using whatever artificial method you are using there. BTDT. At 180 degrees the fans will switch on and off maybe 3X times as much as they do at the normal 220 degrees too.

 

You'll also want to add a pr of cams & a Header to take advantage of that 23 head.....Cams do make a big difference as well as a quality header......I'd also do a egr delete via a tune......& then you can install a egr delete plate.

 

I've had no issues with like idle. Of course I have done a little tuning to it on my own. VE and BSFC I've got hey running on 91 now!! Runs pretty damn good for a used up engine. First couple weeks couldn't keep traction, wasn't use to the extra power. So now, I have a stage 1 clutch conversion kit, for it, while I want the 2.3, I may be getting into a 68000 mile zx4 engine, at a very great price with a transmission I can sell. Also have a 50mil turbo to throw in when I'm ready, and should have my wide band in a week or 2. Put poly bushings in the dog bone, reinforced the passenger side mount, now I've destroyed the trans mount the other night doing a 5700rpm clutch dump and I do believe broke one of the passenger side mount studs on the head. Oh well, at least I learned what needs to be reinforced before I started racing again! Oh, and yes, of course, regardless of what I've seen read in this form I know cams are very important engine building is still very important!! Other than that having a blast with it!! Can't wait to get my wideband, and since I've become the mechanic again I have a welder on me client list who is going to be cutting the front end off of the car right in head of the strut towers and doing all kage work as well as reinforcing the strut towers that I have demolished! Lol I'll talk to you all soon keep driving my friends!!

 

All that sounds like axle tramp, aka wheel hop.....http://c-f-m.com's Tubular A-arms do make a difference & is what you need.

 

the the pcm still see the fans. I just pulled the main on/off relay and have the switch running off of pin 3& 5. I do believe I broke the passenger side strut jumping the car. Lol But yes, I do get wheel hop, quite badly at times. I would assume those arms are pricey. Are there any other solution's??

 

Beating on a vehicle costs cashola......Really sounds like you need a 4x4 truck...I'd say to go w/ a straight axle front end vs independent one.....Can't be a 'stroke....D-max or a ISB, your choice. They all run about the same cost, just they all need different mods for reliable power.