One of my SVTF had a similar issue with the temp gauge not working.

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Not working at all or going from normal temp to hot then back down ? Mine is doing that.

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Nothing. I bought a used cluster and hope to just change the temp gauge out to keep my mileage accurate.

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Is that one of the ones with all the relays to make 3 separate fan speeds? If so then give that some thought.

Wringing your hands and crying loudly over problems? I haven't seen that cure one yet.

Think about THIS. You can swear until the end of the earth that the fans are working and 100% correct and even be right (to a point) and if they stop just every once in a great while you WILL OVERHEAT AT THAT TIME.

EVERYBODY gets tired of firing the parts cannons, and it is usually a sign of incompetence doing so so very much. Great wailing and gnashing of teeth.

Been on this website for YEARS and people STILL insist that the fans must come on when a/c is put on and driving mine around last night in mid '80s temps and some of the time no fans on AT ALL yet the a/c is working its' butt off. It has been so long since I overheated I cannot say, once IIRC and fixed with one $10 part. The other one the same way. How is it I even KNOW the fans are not on???

We make ourselves crazy.....................because...............we make ourselves crazy.

 

Thermostat that sticks sometimes but is usually fine? Is the cooling system holding pressure (and therefore increasing the boiling point of the coolant as designed)?

 

Yes..no leaks...no coolant loss. There are no three-speed fans. The fan resistor is fine. There is only a fan 1 and fan2. When it is reading "hot" there is no coolant loss. An infrared thermometer would nail it if it is really too hot. I dont have one.

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When it is reading hot you must AT THAT EXACT TIME pull over and check to make sure BOTH fans are on high speed and turning at 100% rpm. If you are skillful enough the engine will tell you if it is hot by its' performance but most never catch that.

You CAN overheat into red and not lose a drop of coolant if the cap is tight enough and in good shape. Holding pressure even past normal it will NOT boil over but WILL still be too hot.

Cannot stress new relays enough, they can work fine all day long yet one time only out of 50 not come on and how you get there. If you insist on shotgunning parts they need to be in that list. And NOT cheap ones either. Same with stat, you should NEVER wait until a stat has begun to stick to change it, change them every 75K or so and nothing but the best brand as even they can have Chinese induced issues.

 

When it is reading hot you must AT THAT EXACT TIME pull over and check to make sure BOTH fans are on high speed and turning at 100% rpm. If you are skillful enough the engine will tell you if it is hot by its' performance but most never catch that.

You CAN overheat into red and not lose a drop of coolant if the cap is tight enough and in good shape. Holding pressure even past normal it will NOT boil over but WILL still be too hot. BTW I can hear both fans running even in red...gotta be the stat.

Cannot stress new relays enough, they can work fine all day long yet one time only out of 50 not come on and how you get there. If you insist on shotgunning parts they need to be in that list. And NOT cheap ones either. Same with stat, you should NEVER wait until a stat has begun to stick to change it, change them every 75K or so and nothing but the best brand as even they can have Chinese induced issues.

Are these stats known to stick ??? Seems plausible as i wired pigtail together to force both fans on without AC and going up a long hill still goes into red and yes...I can tell a power loss and some pinging. I can hear both fans when in red. Has to be stat. I was taught when stat fails...it fails Open !??? And a symptom would be too cold running.

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If the low fans never came on of course you will be overheating when the highs are on. They all do that. The overheat trips the highs on.

Stats fail closed far more than open.

 

I just drove it in 108 heat today...takes like 1/2 hour of driving to go fake hot red. I just kept driving it..F-it. Put resistor back in...both fans work. No coolont loss. I'm convinced its a false overheat like Fordtechmackuloco shows in a video. When I get the dough I'll change out the HTS. BTW...I can hear the fan #1 come on at just past middle. Then later on fan #2 also comes on.
Never had a Toyota but that will be my next brand. Corolla driving appliance.

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I would remove the cluster and clean the connection before getting a new cluster. Aftermarket gauges are just fascia. I don't think I've seen an aftermarket cluster, and cluster issues are rare. Cluster issues experienced by this forum requiring a new cluster usually show [--------] on the odometer, or all the needles fail intermittently or completely at the same time. Though it is certainly possible, I do not recall a cluster failing where only one gauge was affected.

A bad CHT has the same symptoms. Turn it off hot, turn it on, and it's magically reading in the middle again. In a real overheat situation, it would still show hot- and actually be hotter after turned off. That's why I use the EOT to test the CHT, other FF's have reported sudden jumps in temp readings to temperatures that would surely destroy an engine if real. Be thankful, there was a guy in New Zealand who payed $3000 for issues caused by a bad CHT. Diagnosis by mechanics over and over for a 6 month period, tows, all these things because he thought the car was overheating.

With the electronic odometer trick, remember that you must be holding the odometer reset button before you turn the key ON. The key must be in the OFF position to begin the procedure, if key is in the ACC position, the test mode will not work. Some diagnostic tools- scanners- will provide you with a real time temperature reading if properly configured. Most do it in Fahrenheit for the C challenged. I prefer the EO method because it's right there in your face, and it doesn't require another tool purchase.

If you really want to stop throwing parts at a car to fix it- diagnose it. Your current diagnosis technique (I turned it off and now it reads in the middle- gauge!) could be caused by several culprits. To properly diagnose something you should seek to gather as much evidence as possible to the end of eliminating potential suspect causes.

 

Well I used to get test mode to work...not anymore. Also trip ODO only works when it wants too.
I have heard reports of shimming the sensor too...It was a TSB I think to fix it. I'll know as soon as I can get the proper 19mm super deep socket to get the old one off. So looking forward to replacing it. The Ford part is 2 dollars less than Oreillys[emoji106]

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I would not recommend anything but OEM for something like that sensor, and instead of just replacing it why don't you buy a $12 bluetooth OBD2 scanner, I'm sure you have access to something that can download apps. Not only will this be helpful for your current problem, they work in almost any car, just a nice thing to have. With the right app(I'd recommend torque which has a free version on Android but is $10 on Apple) you can see a ton of readings and codes

 

'...if the air gap of clutch is too wide too much current needed to engage clutch and 10 amp fuse will melt also.'

Incorrect, the clutch just begins to work erratically due to dropped magnetism. There is NO current regulation there, only 12 volt going down a certain size wire. You get only so much magnetism there and nothing more, there is no 'compensation effect' there whatsoever.

 

Oh...that was my bad guess...videos show fuses melting from field coil shorting out..that I know is true. ETCG...Ratchets and Wrenches and South Main Auto.
Luckily the Ford type clutch looks easy to do.[emoji106]

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Yes...Blue Driver looks good.

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Cylinder head temp sensor

 

Thank you. I switched clusters and the gauge works perfect with the test cluster so I know my issue has to be in the cluster. That's why I want to just switch the gauge itself from one cluster to the other as I'd like to keep the mileage accurate.

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Good news...my bad PZEV cat is covered under California 15yr/150k miles emission warranty. It is partially plugged and car overheats and pings.

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Good news...my bad PZEV cat is covered under California 15yr/150k miles emission warranty. It is partially plugged and car overheats and pings.

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Who - exactly - made the determination that the cat was partially plugged and what - exactly - did they do to make that determination?

Paul

 

Bad news !!! Ford put in new manicat and ran pinpoint tests...no codes but runs like exhaust plugged !!!?
Gave me car back...no power overheating and PINGING...Help !!![emoji22][emoji24]

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Mufflers can do the same and if car driven long enough to burn valves due to the restriction it won't run right either.

 

Will a car run hot and ping if the valves are burnt ?
I did drive it with bad cat for a month or more...had no money to fix it back then. Be honest...Is my engine ruined ?[emoji24] No codes are showing.

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You assumed that was your problem, NEVER assume anything on a car. Guilty until proven innocent. At least it was a warranty item right? Or does the old one not being bad let them charge you for the entire repair?

 

The cat was bad...Ford said broken up inside.
Would have cost me over $1200 I had it fixed cause I read on here PZEV has 15/150 warranty. It had a p0420 so it was kind of a no brainer.

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If the valves are burnt you don't need an entire new engine, just get the head rebuilt or get one from a junkyard.

Before you do that though, test it. Compression test/leak down test will show you if valves are burnt(if I'm not mistaken)

Edit: I did not know the cat was bad or that you had the p0420 code. So cat being replaced was needed anyways, now you can cross that off the list. Is it possible for pieces of the cat to come loose, and travel down the exhaust into the muffler and clog it up?

 

Thats what it seems like. Still feels restricted.

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How rusted is your exhaust lol, maybe disconnect muffler and drive it shortly, see if it doesn't feel restricted. If you get pulled over say it just got loud while you were driving and say you're going straight home to fix it right now.

 

No rust...its all stainless on Focus. Disconnecting at resonator in AM

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You were right??? You thought the engine was trashed... Who gave you that idea that pieces of the old cat were still in the system lol

 

I had the idea 2 months ago...bolts were too tight. Finally got a breaker bar and pushed with my legs to get them loose...PB Blaster was worthless. You were one of only right ideas on here...other replies were wothless..like Your Thermostat is stuck closed , etc. ?[emoji2]

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Yes pieces of cat brick can block rest of pipe as you found..............common for muffler mechanics to whack the cat to get you to hear the 'rattling pieces' inside it to get a cat sale, well, of course that was them just shattering the ceramic brick to create the condition right then. Then they tell you you'll need a muffler too as the pieces of cat will 'burn that muffler out' and more BS doing that.

If the cat outer body shows any signs of having been struck like dents or whatever you should always suspect it of insides being broken. Some are alright as they have a steel coated matrix inside but the ceramic brick ones will always be shattered.

 

Here is the fix...free...more HP and sounds great. Not getting exhaust yet.
Used nuts as spacers cause without them the pipes migrated back together. Notice the new cat and air tube Ford paid for.

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Not good on anything near that major exhaust leak, and definitely won't make the California cops happy lol. When will you get a new exhaust? Could just straight pipe it from the cat back, or just pull the manifold off and melt your radiator

 

Aue contraire...flex pipe straight out was too loud.
The "leak" is by design...it doesn't loose any power...tried it back to back...but quiets it down some.
I will be going 2.25 inch pipe all the way back to a Magnaflow. When I can afford it.
Imagine that...2 "expert" mechanics wanted at least $125 to tell me what was wrong !!
I did it myself for free...Fu** ripoff mechanics.

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They probably can't hear it because their windows are up with the ac on. Wish I could be in ac...

A Magnaflow sounds nice on an SVT, don't know about the duratec though.

Don't even get me started on rip off mechanics, almost quit my job last Monday because the guy in charge of the dealership building(he isn't even my boss, nor is he the boss of my boss, so he has no right in telling me this) came over and told me how I need to say people need things to their car even if they don't completely need it. I never got my raise I was promised after I was there for 3 months(Fridays my last day because of college) so why the **** should I try to make them more money? It's not like we arnt busy enough and already making around 80 grand a month(only 4 mechanics). Not only is that idiotic, it's not right to be doing that. My service manager builds trust with the customer so if she tells them they need something they almost always approve it. So basically we are taking advantage of people who don't know any better. I would have quit if I wasn't about to leave for college, but you better believe I'm spreading the word to people. It's bullshit

 

My good friend had same thing happen at Honda dealer..wanted him to certify cars without doing the work..he quit.

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Now you're larnin'...............................the crooks are everywhere now and almost impossible to hold a job while trying to be honest. It can be hell when they are over you, my son going through that right now but about to get the two in line over him fired it looks like now. Both are in trouble now for sex harassment and on phone vids showing it, my son helped set that up. The guys are simply too stupid to keep things in their pants where they belong.

I went through great fits of that stuff when I was in parts, of course being an old fart I simply told them to FO, and including a territory manager. I told him to fire me if he wanted over it but he couldn't as they couldn't keep anybody in there that wouldn't steal from the place first chance they got. I as well reported a manager at another store that girl after girl kept coming in ours to complain about, that one got fired. Everybody else was afraid to. I had plenty of 'girlfriends' after that one.

I remember a lecture I got from a district manager in 1979 or so about a guy I helped fix a carb problem for $10 that had come in to buy a $300 carb and why didn't I sell it to him instead of what I did? Of course that guy showed back up at the parts store practically forever after that, we could do no wrong after that one. I smacked the manager in the face with that one like a dead fish.

Never mind the one place I caused some 2 million in fines and other after pulling a stunt like they did to me. Got both the IRS and Texas Air Control Board on that one after they tried to rip my checks off of mandatory overtime. Ultimately the plant closed, it could not pay all the fines and due diligence after it was revealed they were in heavy violation of EPA and labor law.

 

Well now Ford is on the hook for a new air pump...car set a code last week for smog pump.
15/150 PZEV warranty to the rescue...plus I can rub it in about fixing my backpressure for free.
They wanted $125 when I knew darn well he knew the cat material went down further !!!

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There IS a flipside to action like that, I worried about people I knew there losing their jobs.

However, after talking to a few who verified that if you got hurt on the job they threatened you with firing if you reported it as workmen's comp..........well, that made it easier. They forced people to fix any work related injuries by using their own personal health insurance instead.

That's so f-cking low to me.

Sorry about jacking your thread...........