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Looks like I will be doing this procedure this weekend. Car is vibrating at idle in gear. My kids can't stand to be in the car.....
 
Since you have 2.0 motor you don't get balance shafts

I just bought a 2007 zx3 with 5 spd manual and 65K mi. The engine buzzes and vibrates above idle speed about as bad as an old pinto 2.3L motor. It gets quiet at idle RPM once warm. Stuff in the interior tends to vibrate in sympathy and the rear view mirror is even a little blurry. The noise is fairly obnoxious in the interior and it's no quieter in a coast condition. It frankly sounds like it has a bad motor mount or the exhaust is touching the floorpan or frame, but this isn't the case from what I can see. The exhaust moves around like it's on rubber when moved by hand. The vibration is even worse when cold, but no missfire. It's hard to believe these motors have a counterbalance system because I've ridden in other modern 4 cyl cars and they are quite smooth.

Any advice appreciated.
Just to add= since you have a 2.0L motor you have no balance shafts like the 23 have. By the way I pulled my balance shafts out.
 
My '07 has vibrated since the day I drove it off the lot. Doesn't really make a sound, but vibrates really bad. I just thought that was how it was supposed to be. The Ford dealership never told me anything was wrong when I asked about it. But then again, they never want to look at my car when I would take it in.. So they will never get my business again.
 
Just to add= VF engineering lower mount, roll restricter aka dogbone is a great up great to have. It really helps restricting the motor from rolling around, whitch helps shifting & a putting the power down. Yes its going to a some nvh into the cabin at idle, but thats a small price to pay for what you get in return. Heck I've removed the balance shafts & add a VF engineering dogbone & yes it has some vibrations at idle w/ cams/udp's on the motor. It a 4 cylinder. If you want to see vibe's crank up a Hog.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
I'm a big believer in compliant bushings and stored energy in rotating mass. These sort of modifications feel fast but performance is generally unaffected. Lower rotating mass and firmer powertrain mounts encourage wheelspin which is never good unless you're trying spin (drifting). But then again, I have only 50K track miles under my belt so what do I know?[race]
 
Poly dogbone is a great upgrade

I'm a big believer in compliant bushings and stored energy in rotating mass. These sort of modifications feel fast but performance is generally unaffected. Lower rotating mass and firmer powertrain mounts encourage wheelspin which is never good unless you're trying spin (drifting). But then again, I have only 50K track miles under my belt so what do I know?[race]
Depends on what track your dealing w/ drags or road courses or even autoX's
Stored energy= drag cars. Lighten rotating mass= road racing Firmer power train mounts does encourage wheel spin= less power being used up. Thats where suspension set up comes in. Yes stored energy is great for DD's, say alloy flywheel vs a stock style flywheel. I was just saying a great upgrade is a poly dogbone vs the oem one, being FWD car's.
 
Well, wasted money on this motor mount. Got it installed and nothing has changed. I guess I'll just live with that slight vibration in gear at idle. Or I'll just start flipping it into neutral when I'm sitting. It goes away then......
 
Discussion starter · #31 · (Edited)
Well, wasted money on this motor mount. Got it installed and nothing has changed. I guess I'll just live with that slight vibration in gear at idle. Or I'll just start flipping it into neutral when I'm sitting. It goes away then......
The vibration I experienced due to a bad upper passenger mount (at idle) was with the car in neutral or clutch depressed. It didn't get much worse under load.

If you are feeling vibration with the engine preloaded (idling in gear with automatic tranny), I would take a look at your dogbone mount (lower right). The dogbone basically floats in neutral and will only transmit hard vibration when in gear and loaded by the torque converter. However I should also mention that idle vibration could be bad injector, bad valve or cylinder sealing (reduced compression value), or bad ignition part. These issues generally cause reduced fuel economy. I have no idea what a bad drivers side mount feels like, but they rarely fail, at least according to my web searches. You would need to visually inspect it for rips or cracks to be sure.

Please notice that my car is a 2007 model with different motor than yours. I have a 2.0 Duratec; you probably have a 2.0 Zetec unless it's the rare, early 2.3 PZEV Duratec. The mounts and symptoms would be similar, but not the same.
 
Discussion starter · #32 · (Edited)
Depends on what track your dealing w/ drags or road courses or even autoX's
Stored energy= drag cars. Lighten rotating mass= road racing Firmer power train mounts does encourage wheel spin= less power being used up. Thats where suspension set up comes in. Yes stored energy is great for DD's, say alloy flywheel vs a stock style flywheel. I was just saying a great upgrade is a poly dogbone vs the oem one, being FWD car's.
Not too many autocrossers or drag racers with 50K track miles lol. That'd be about 10K weekend events which would take about 200 years, assuming no rain cancellations, vacation or sickness.

I make good use of stored energy in my road racing, street driving and even autocross (in most instances) to improve performance and reduce wheelspin. That would definitely apply to my street Focus. I've had good luck with moderate to heavy flywheel on the track, and more importantly, I don't see my friends having measurably better luck with featherweight upgrade parts of that sort. The stopwatch is a valuable tool for quantifying gains. I'm not making an argument for heavy wheels and tires since low unsprung weight is important on most surfaces. I don't want to break traction when launching hard or smacking 2nd gear (due to a stiffer dog bone). I'd rather store the excess torque in a piece of rubber then retransmit it over a second or so, as the motor moves back into position. Tire rubber you grind off against the pavement does not provide any benefit, unless you want to see smoke and buy more tires. I'm really not interested in transmitting greater torque peaks to my transmission teeth either.

Autocross is won by contestants who can maintain max g's thru smooth driving with minimal wheelspin. Abrupt accel or decel is not the key; maintaining higher velocity is. I have dozens of first place trophys running cars with super compliant bushings and lots of mass, rotating and otherwise. My stock, compliant and luxurious Lincoln Mark VII with automatic and air bag suspension served to demoralize hundreds of ponycar drivers, many with 50-75% more HP and 5 or 6 spd trannys with firm bushing, springs and such. Half of them were cheating lol. They were spinning, slipping and losing, and this included very good regional drivers in the points chase. I was transferring energy to and from rubber mounts to maintain grip, and more often than not, winning.

Poly motor mounts don't belong on a Focus daily driver street car under any circumstances and they won't measurably improve it's autocross, drag or road race performance. Of course, this is just my opinion.
 
change all 3 mounts.... ffs man it's so cheap compared to other problems it may cause :/

if your manifold will crack due to vibration n engine roll you will have to pay $400, and change mounts anyway so dont wait.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
is there any good after market mount i used a napa one and they don't seem too good
Good luck with that. Since so many aftermarket mounts are known to have a defective design and fail within months, I just buy OEM. You can;t trust recommendations for aftermarket mounts because suppliers & mfrs change yearly based upon low bid. The mfr, point of origin and age of aftermarket stock isn't consistent even by brand. Several threads discussed this issue.

The labor investment and hassle for rework isn't worth experimenting to save a couple bux per year in maintence costs. I paid $75 for an '07 main upper passenger mount thru Ford OEM dealer parts that will probably last me at least 5 years. The dogbone and driver's side mounts are even cheaper. There are on-line sources of Ford OEM parts at significant discount. Folks are spending $$ for the defective chinese junk and spending their weekends doing R&R rework. Free time and peace of mind is worth more than $2/hr.
 
I have no issues w/ mounts

i think everyone with a focus has this problem. lol
I don't have any issues w/ my mounts. I changed out the dogbone only w/ a vf engineering one a long time ago, & I deleted my balance shafts & have a set of crane cams, sure there's some vibes at idle, theres going to be w/ a 4 cylinder= its not a pancake motor= VW, Porsche, Subie, or BMW bike motor.
 
good for you felixcat, many wish they had same luck, still in most of the cases mounts hold for about 7 years of moderate driving, so yes it meant some will have to change it after 4 years and some after 9, but they will not go on for ever, and all 9 year old Focis had em changed or they are as fun as riding a bike with granite saddle.

problem in this thread is not about normal, and expected, 4 cylinder vibration, it's about unfortunately common problem of engine mounts crapping out and causing engine to transfer all vibrations on to the body.

goddarn didn't exaggerate saying everyone has this problem, it's like when you say there are no virgin girls in highschool, and there will always be those 3 girls who will stand up and speak against it, first will lie, second will be too ugly for anyone to care, and the one who really is will not hold for much longer.
 
I get what your saying thou.

good for you felixcat, many wish they had same luck, still in most of the cases mounts hold for about 7 years of moderate driving, so yes it meant some will have to change it after 4 years and some after 9, but they will not go on for ever, and all 9 year old Focis had em changed or they are as fun as riding a bike with granite saddle.

problem in this thread is not about normal, and expected, 4 cylinder vibration, it's about unfortunately common problem of engine mounts crapping out and causing engine to transfer all vibrations on to the body.

goddarn didn't exaggerate saying everyone has this problem, it's like when you say there are no virgin girls in highschool, and there will always be those 3 girls who will stand up and speak against it, first will lie, second will be too ugly for anyone to care, and the one who really is will not hold for much longer.
I get what your saying. When the motor mount on the passenger side & the transaxle mount goes, I not sure wheather to upgrade to poly ones or the Ford oem's. Probably the oem's since I have a set of cams, whitch make the motor shake more now. But I would highly recommend a poly bushed dogbone for sure.[thumb]
 
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