That connector to the coil and the wiring close to it is a common issue. Replacement connectors with wires attached (pigtail) are avail. for repair.

Without good connection at a single side wire (wire or connector) you loose spark on TWO cylinders, if the central wire looses connection you loose all spark (power to the coil).

You need to keep the wires straight when doing a replacement so it works properly, no mixing them up. Individual connections are possible as an emergency measure, again they have to be made the same way as they are now.

 

Yep, new pigtail connector. I also suggest that you trace the wiring to the coil back as far as you can in that wiring loom. Look for damage to the loom and wires inside. Have some zip ties handy. There are 2 small tubes that come up from the exhaust manifold and go to the EGR's DPFE, you'll have metal tube connected to a strange flexible thermoplastic tube that connects to the a device with wires going to it (DPFE). The metal tubes can come into contact with the wire loom on those cars, and it causes damage where it can't easily be seen from above. Inspect, and zip tie that wire loom so that it won't contact those tubes after you make your repair.

 

Thanks for the advise! Are those connectors available at most autopart stores, or will I need to order it from somewhere or possibly get one from a dealer?

 

It's not just a Dealer item anymore, but even spark plugs might not be immediately avail. at a local store without waiting for them from another location.

 

Hey, so replacing the connector didn't work. Any other suggestions?

 

Check the connector contacts for power, you should get 12v measured to ground at the center one.

That will confirm wiring & fuse, at least for power to the coil.

Any spark now?

 

You can easily get 'weak spark' based on how you test for it, seen it a hundred times...........just sayin'. It still could be fine. There is no book out there with pics and the judgement is highly suspect any time it is done. I don't even trust myself and been checking that for some 45 years. Weak spark on 2,3, and 4 is impossible, it would be all 4 or only 2.

Was the car turning to THE RIGHT when the issue happened? Even more if the fuel level was low, say 1/4 tank or so. Your fuel pressure check and logic are worthless.

The timing belts almost always look fine, these strip to jump teeth far more than break belt. You won't see that unless you check every single inch and maybe even not then.

Is the battery known hot and FULLY CHARGED right now? Simply saying it's charged is worthless as well.

 

Try the crank sensor

 

If check engine light is lit during cranking the crank sensor is working............And if bad there will be ZERO spark. PCM shuts spark grounding off since it can't time properly. Wrong timed spark damages parts.

 

I was turning left at the time it died. I have 1/2 tank of gas left. The check engine light is on when cranking, but it has been on for months already.

I can try to borrow a multimeter from work, but if I can't, I'll need to wait until Sunday when my dad can up with one.

 

The check engine light is on when cranking, but it has been on for months already.

Have you had the codes read? If so, what's the number for the code? If you haven't had it read, see if you can rent a code reader from your parts store, or borrow one- whatever it takes. Record the DTC code that pops up, and let us know what it is.

 

Good plan.

You realize of course it is well within probability that the light could have been on for whatever finally brought you down......................