Did you get the newer updated part, the one that doesn't break down for no reason?
If so, what is the part number so I can order it?

 

I was not aware that there was an updated part #, I just got mine from the local Ford store. I will look-up the part number that I got and let you know

 

It's a "sticky".[]

 

Did you get the newer updated part, the one that doesn't break down for no reason?
If so, what is the part number so I can order it?

Sorry about the delay, here is the part number that I used. 1M5Z-7A543-AA

hope that helps

 

more tips?

This is a great post and much appreciated. Just a few of questions:

What is a GearWrench?

Did you bleed the system from the master? slave? both?

Where is the slave cylinder located?

Thanx for yr help.

 

the part # for an 00-01 is the ys4z-7a543-aa



is the 1m5z an improved part??


is clutch pedal travel a problem you have when this fails??

 

That YS4Z# is for an early 2000-'01 model. 1M5Z-9A543-AB is the later one.

 

Your part# superceeds to a 98AB-9A543-AH for the early ones.

 

so they are not interchangeable? I am still having clutch pedal travel issues and after replacing the clutch and slave cylinder, flywheel am getting a little panicky. any help advice would be nice.


elwood125@hotmail.com

 

ska addict wrote these instructions for bleeding the system:

Get someone to sit in the driver's seat to pump the clutch pedal. Locate the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder, its at about the 10 o'clock position on the front of the bellhousing next to the transmission, you may have to remove the battery to get at it. Get a box wrench and put it on the bleeder, then put a clear piece of plastic tubing roughly 3/16"-3/8" wide over the bleeder and run it under the car into a clear container. Have whoever is in the car push the clutch to the floor, then open the bleeder and close it. Once its closed have the person in the car let the pedal out and depress again, then open the bleeder and close it...and so on. You'll initally get just fluid, but as the air in the line works its way out you'll get bubbles. You want to continue pumping the clutch pedal and opening and closing the bleeder until you're just getting clean fluid without any air. Its very critical that the fluid level in the reservior does not reach the bottom, otherwise you'll suck air in and you'll have to start all over again. Its a good idea to get a third person to keep the brake fluid reservior topped off while you operate the bleeder.

 

Pics? I need pics!!!

 

of? its all pretty straight forward

 

Looks like I get to do my wifes car, drip drip drip. Good thing just about everyone and there cousin has had to do it, lots of info, though Ford should be looking at a redesign and recall with this being a common failure under 40K.

 

Ford should be looking at a redesign and recall with this being a common failure under 40K.

Not likely to happen...they're not going to initiate a recall unless there's something going on that could cause catastrophic failure resulting in injury or death of the driver. A little brake fluid dripping inside the cabin isn't worth it for them, they'd rather just have a bunch of pissed off owners than spend the money developing a lasting MC or (heaven forbid) fixing a design flaw. Nobody's going to sue them over it, so they don't care.

 

get ready for some fun... gear wrenches are your friends!

 

what does the bleeder nipple look like? could it be different on the IB5 for my spi?

 

Anyone know what size Gear Wrenches to buy to help make this go easier, I'll be doing my clutch master this weekend and would like to have everything I need ready.

Thanks,

 

I answered my own question, its a 10mm, but you can do it without a Gearwrench. Some things I did different is after you pull the hydraulic lines and bolt on the fire wall, I removed the 3 colored sensors on the brake and clutch pedal, they rotate and then pull out, they are keyed, and the other black clutch sensor, it had a tab on the back of it you lift and it comes off. I removed the white plastic plug on the brake pedal to the brake master cylinder rod, it has a barb you push up with a screwdriver and it slides out, I found that my plug would rotate so you could see the barb. There after I removed the 4 nuts (13mm deep socket and wobble head 12" extension and got them all out easily) that hold the pedal box assembly to the fire wall and pulled it out as one unit and replaced the clutch master cylinder outside of the car. The two bolts that hold the clutch master to the pedal box self tap into the plastic on the clutch master. Also, there are two tabs that lock the master cylinder to the pedal box prior to bolting it up. Then I reinstalled the pedal box and rest in reverse order. It took me 2 hours not knowing what to do with out bleeding. This was the easiest way for me to do it and it took about 15 min to put all back together. One note, make sure as you install the bottom line, it lined up with the grommet for the bracket and the inlet fitting, otherwise its a pain to disassemble and redo, don't ask me how I know[rolleyes]. Also, to keep the top line from spilling fluid all over, I lifted the line above the reservoir and let the end rest on the cowl, be careful not to bend the line too much or it will break.

 

I've got to do both master and slave cylinders.[thumbd]

 

is this the same with a non svt?

 

^
Yes.

 

Clutch Master cylinder line O rings

Thank you all for this thread on the leakey master cylinder! Mine just started leaking about two months ago. I live in Northern VA, and it's been really cold here, so I'm just getting around to it. I bought the new Master cylinder from the Ford dealer. The shop manual says to replace the o rings on the line connections if necessary. Did anyone have to replace theirs? If so, where did you buy them? Ford doesn't have a part number for the rings themselves, and they only come on the two lines you disconnect from the master cylinder.

Thanks, John, Alexandria, VA

 

I didn't replace the o-rings. I would check to make sure there were no leaks on the firewall side as that, I think, is where they would show a problem. If you have any questions on the removal and replace feel free to PM me.

 

Thanks a lot for your help! John

 

No problem. Good luck and have fun.

 

Thank you so much for your advice. I sucessfully replaced my clutch master cylinder last week. No more leaks! Now, does anyone have advice as to which product to use for cleaning brake fluid off of carpet?
[8)]

John, Alexandria, VA

 

You could try the Orange Hand cleaner or some Dishwashing soap that is good at cutting grease and you might try a detail shop, sometimes thay have some "magic stuff" that will remove it.

 

my master cylender failed twice destroying my cluth leading to $1400 worth of repairs in teh first two years of ownership...