I believe I bought the rotors less than a year ago so I should ask the company if their is any warranty policy. I bet they are past the mileage though.

 

Technically they can be turned but I'm not sure if you'll be able to find a shop that will do it. Rotors are so cheap these days it just makes more sense to get a new pair. Also, I would highly recommend against drilled rotors for our cars. There is absolutely no need for them. I am not even sure I would recommend slotted although those won't give you anywhere near as many problems as drilled.

 

Ya I know. I had dimpled and slotted on my previous car and no one would turn them but that's OK because they never warped. I just hate having to buy new rotors already. The pads look like brand new. I knew d/s rotors were overkill on her car but they were either a tad cheaper or about the same price as OEM style replacements from oriellys.

I'm pretty sure I'll just have to get new rotors OEM style. I know I should replace pads at the same time but could I get away without replacing them if they look nearly new still?

 

Most O'Reilly store resurface rotors. I could go into a deep diatribe on lateral runout and such but I think it is lost on most people. I recommend having the rotors resurfaced by a repair shop with an "on the car brake lathe". Your results will be better and last longer.

 

This^^^^^^^^^

 

After you solve your lateral run out issues with the rotors i highly suggest performing the bedding procedure for your brakes to prevent the issue from possibly returning once again.

I had to turn my rotors after i purchased my car due to a lot of rust on the rotors from sitting around for almost a year and lateral run out issues, i didn't have the time to perform the bedding procedure as i had to press the car into immediate service. Needless to say less than 2K miles later i was starting to pay for it as i could feel the brakes starting to pulsate.

After putting up with a rapid increase in the amount of pulsation for over 20k miles i couldn't stand it any longer and I had the rotors re-turned, (the last time before the end of service life). This time i followed the proper bedding procedure. So far over 1k miles later they are still smooth with no lateral run out issues.
Ive noticed this time around with tuning the rotors and right after actually performing the bedding procedure, there's a herringbone pattern on the rotor surface that showed up and it persists even though there's is a few thousandths of and inch wear already present on the rotor contact surfaces. Possibly a result from tool chatter when the rotors were turned?, i dunno but for now the wear is even and feels smooth!!!!! BTW im still using the same pads the car came with as they are still good with plenty of service life left on them. And the brakes are performing as expected... Go figure? [dunno]

 

When you installed the drilled/slotted rotors, did you use a torque wrench to reinstall the lug nuts? Uneven lug nut torque is a good way to warp rotors.

 

I've been an automotive tech for over 20 years and have machined several drilled/slotted/dimpled rotors with zero problems. The only people that won't machine them are people that have never machined them before.

 

it does tend to chew up the cutting bits. Ive done it before. The problem is you're also machining out the slots in the rotors.

Id just get good blank rotors.

 

Next time bed the brakes in before handing it off to your wife.

They aren't warped, they have uneven pad deposition.

 

This. I have a set on all four corners on my mazda6. I followed the instructions on proper brake in period and I've never had a issue. Had them for over a year now.

They was chattering for a few 100 miles but once the they where broke in they only chatter under heavy braking, but that's because they are working properly, and cleaning the pad surface.

It always has that new pads smell after some nice hard driving though the twisties.

Mine are powerstops.

 

I had a set on my Civic and was not impressed
First time out it sounded like I had a hockey card in the spokes
Normal braking they felt OK but hard braking they chattered
I was lucky enough to get warranty and switched back to regular rotors

I know at one point everyone was selling drilled and slotted rotors
They have all but disappeared from the normal market it seems

BTW
the slots and drill holes will eat up the carbide cutters used to machine rotors

 

Bed the brakes, bed the wife. Simple as that.

 

This^^^^^^^

 

Just as you said it's difficult to find a shop that will cut rotors like that.

 

Amen to that. There are instructions with the pads how to bed them correctly (and fun too)

 

X2 bontoft. They want you to take big cuts (minimum .010"+ a side, that's combined .020") so that you can walk off the machine to service more customers up front. The big cuts tend to knock the tips off the cutters. If they simply took the time and smaller cuts they can machine slotted/drilled all day long. They just refuse to. At least at the big O. Probably where the 'herringbone' pattern came from as well. The bigger amount sends the cutter into vibration hell that chatters the cut. They use springs and damper wraps that stop it on 75% of the discs out there but if you have a specialty one that requires special service to not chatter you'll get erratic cutting, they do not care at all. I shucked out plenty of discs that I was not proud of at all, I certainly wouldn't use them on my car. The word was you weren't doing the job right if you had to do more than two cuts, they did not allow for special problems at all. I felt like I worked in a butcher shop.

'They aren't warped, they have uneven pad deposition.'

Amen brother, once you cut enough parts you figure out the discs are still straight, the pads have simply embedded pad material into the disc surface to make different hardness around the disc in spots. It then appears to be warped from the grab more/grab less. 90% of all warping claims are that and not warped at all. Of course you lie while caving into the customer so as to agree with him when he swears it. Requirements of the job..................keep 'em stupid, keep 'em buying parts.

 

'They aren't warped, they have uneven pad deposition.'
I agree in most cases but my rotors were "riding the short bus", they were indeed having TV issues, i was standing next to the machinist as he mic'ed the rotor thickness out and i was reading a .007 variation in thickness on one rotor and a .005 variation on the other.

Agreed, with the machinist just knocking out the job in one pass is very hard on the carbide bits, not only is it a crude cut but the possibility for chatter increases. Years ago i had a drum turned and the band was not placed around it while machining a thick cut, it was chattered so badly they had to fix it with several finer cuts!!!. It took me getting really angry with them for the incompetent job before they reluctantly agreed to fix it..... needless to say i never went to that machinist again!

 

'...he mic'ed the rotor thickness out and i was reading a .007 variation in thickness on one rotor and a .005 variation on the other.'

And normal. You should try simply cutting as perfect as you can ending with light opposed cuts to guarantee precision and then break down the setup and then reset it back up again after loosening the spindle and retightening the same rotor back down. You'll commonly find that the rotor which showed less than .002" runout seconds before now cannot be brought back in under .005" minimum regardless of orientation. The difference is the normal as supplied brand new clearance between the main shaft and the pilots used, to get them to slip on and off easily. The clearance then modifies multiplied through rotor OD and easily your new error. The piloting off the bearing bore has error in it as well, some places flat the rotor later and the bearing bores are done earlier in the manufacturing process. Goofy but I've seen it, the two are not the same cut setup. Even the rolled radius leading into it affects the flat even more. Radius is often not exactly concentric with the other cuts. Often you are set up on the radius (bearing bore END) rather then the true bearing bore, which is a gross mistake. Can't be done any closer than that, even if you try 50 times.

There are probably quality machines that can do closer than that but not the cheap ones found in most part stores now.

Why if you show a customer the variance you don't touch squat until he sees it, loosen the part up and you cannot get back there again. It throws the entire 'within .002"' TIR mantra out the window as totally unreliable except in lip service. I proved it out to store and district service managers when they started handing me loads of crap over it. Like I wasn't doing the job correctly, what a joke. The equipment was not good enough to do the job correctly.

Granted, runout and variation thickness are two different things. You can vary thickness by simply using a sharp cutter on one side and dull on the other. Two dull will do it too. Also, taking like .010" off one side and only .003" on other will make some screwy things happen. The heavier loaded cutter will deflect as vs. the lighter one. The heavy cut then vibrates to change the cut quality on that side, it varies more.

Some Chinese discs were so bad they were uncorrectable. And some of the work I saw come out of our shop, well, I was just shaking my head.