i believe its in the passenger fender area. (almost inside it)

 

did they vacuum out the system after they were done with the swap?

 

Nope.

 

First of all, you don't charge the high pressure side. It has pressure of 300 psi and more and that 22 ounce can may explode in your hand. Secondly, keep the can upright and feed the vapor into the low pressure side of the system; if you feed liquid into the low presssure side, you can damage the compressor. And finally, as noted above, if they didn't draw a vaccum on the system it will be full of air and non-condensable gases and water vapor and will not work.

 

Ill take it some where. Thanks guys.

Suburban is low. lol! Might check it and see if it needs some. Not as cold as it should be in my book.

Question? I thought the low pressure side has a different color cap or something? Is there a way of telling when I check suburban?

 

The low pressure port is where you charge. The high pressure port is readily accessible, and thankfully it's made "stupid-proof" so that you can't put a charge fitting on it.

The "General AC Troubleshooting and Repair" thread shows pictures of where both ports are IIRC, I know it shows where the LP port is.

Mike is right, if the system hasn't been vacuumed and checked, there's no point in recharging. Vacuuming serves 2 very important functions 1) removes all moisture from the system 2) checks for leaks. There's no point in recharging a leaky system.

 

Good to know. Thanks! I will take it to a shop.

 

right yeah didn't notice that bit either..... no high side charging .

well doesn't matter now anyway, but I know one (or both?) of the ports is behind the passenger fenderwell liner behind the bumper..... right where the accumulator is. [facepalm] nice spot eh?

edit: btw low pressure is "usually" blue..... unless the caps have been replaced by some generic black ones. (they're a seal. if you don't have caps get yourself some and that may solve the leak fyi) high pressure, normally red.

 

Thanks. Ya, I will get the focus done at a shop. As for suburban. The guage showed a little low. Nothing major. I added some. Wow, much colder! Digital guage showed on the vents at 40-41*. I am happy now [thumb]

Update: Did some research. Just FYI. On the low pressure it should be between 25-45psi (before 25 and now 44psi). 45psi is full on my guage. The vent temps it should be 35-40*. Before mine was 44*.

 

Question on Focus? When I turn the a/c button on. The blue light comes on, but I don't hear the compressor. It is because no freon in there or compressor not hooked up?

 

It is because no freon in there or compressor not hooked up?

Both. The "safety" side of the system won't allow power to the compressor clutch without a charge. If the compressor electrical lead is not hooked up, then it won't work even if you have a charge.

Are you sure you read through that article?

If not, then if you gather a grasp of the mechanics of refrigerant cooling, then you can figure out why you'll have warm air in July if your area of CA heats up in the summer.

 

Pep Boys did A/C. $99 evac and $59 freon. Now I have cold air.

-Complete-

 

I would not use the canister. They put sealants in those...and sealants are no good.

 

I found a lot of placed will not charge a system without using sealant. Not sure why. Its part of their package.

 

The high side fitting, on 2009 Ford Focus SEL, is located on the front, driver side of the condenser behind the grill. There is a cutout on top of the grill that allows one to see the cap on the port. But, basis my experience, the cutout does not provide adequate area to access the port with a gauge quick disconnect. The value of the high side port is to conduct system performance tests versus charge. When you put gauges on the car, always be sure to retract or "back out" the Schrader valve engagement pin by turning the knob, located on the quick disconnect, counterclockwise all the way before affixing the quick disconnect fitting. Failure to do this will likely damage the Schrader valve causing a leak. Schrader valves are very cheap, but replacing it after the system is charged requires evacuating the system (again), replacing the valve and recharging with refrigerant. All this extra work as a result of not turning a knob. How do I know this...because I seen me do it!

 

On most disconnects you don't adjust anything, the pin is hardset in space and does what it needs to do every time.