You should be okay. I don't think you need a BAP for anything that the stock Zetec motor can handle.

 

From 03orangeSVT:

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128057

 

Thanks Ska, and that's actually thr thread that got me thinking about this. Have they done enough playing with the ECU such that the BAP is not needed? Or is the BAP a key player in the equation?

 

At 10psi you need to see what your fuel psi is at WOT and max boost but from what I have seen your good to go , Its at about 16psi you need to start looking for options

Tom

 

^^^ + but use 60lb injectors then......otherwise if PSI will drop (mine is around 32PSI around 7000) u can max duty cycle on smaller injectors....look on interner..there are many calculators to show you what size of injectors u need for your crank HP goal, fuel PSI is one of few variables....

 

Right right, I will be using 60lb injectors. I figured that our stock setup would be good up to a certain point given the right tuning. So if Tom's saying ~16psi, I think Ill be good to go.

 

side question.. are you going with a Procharger???[drinking]

 

^^^ Yes , he is ;-)

 

Yep, should be getting pocus's c2 charger, big ass PWR front mount and associated piping very soon. Im really looking for 300 wheel, but wont chase it right now if I going to NEED a J&S and a BAP. So my options are do the 10lb pulley and get it tuned up, while saving for a 5.7 crank pulley, j&s, j&s gauge, BAP and new tune. OR, save time and trouble by finding out that you can tune a 15lb procharged SVT without a BAP or j&s.

I know the j&s is a major safety item, and Im not trying to skimp out but man, this and the clutch, im up to the tune of $4600 right now.

All suggestions/advice is appreciated!

 

Ebay ;-)

 

I've found through ALOT datalogging the last SVT I did that at 10psi he needed a BAP.... somewhere around 4500rpm he was seeing 100% duty cycle on the fuel pump and fuel pressure was dropping off....... not to a "dangerous" level but enough to make me leary of adding more boost.

 

Oh the plot thickens

 

Hmmmm based on calculators I found...I have to use BAP as well if I wanna use more then 10PSI PC

 

The 2003 and up ford focus have higher flowing fuel pumps, so It should be good for little more than the 2002. I would recommend datalogging the car to see what the fuel pressure is at. That would be the best way to tell, but if you plan to do 270fwhp+, it would not hurt to have one to be safe. The fuel pump tables are changed correctly will help to increase fuel pressure. I highly recommend having the J&S.

 

I came up with a change in "a certain table" that raises fuel pressure as boost increases... its a multi-entry change and it took a couple of days to get it right... but as demand increases the fuel pressure automatically rises.

With this change and the BAP I MAINTAIN 62psi of fuel pressure at 7k rpm with 19-20psi of boost.... its all good.

 

Well I don't have a problem dropping some coin on a BAP if its needed.

How about the J&S situation. I know its always a good thing and recommended, BUT with a safe tune, wont the stock knock sensor take car of some mild deto by pulling a few degrees? Again this will be for 15lbs.

 

Yes, but the stock knock sensor can also ADD timing and sometime it can CAUSE deto.

 

Oh well isnt that wonderful. So whats the bottom line? This is my daily driver, and from my searching I've noticed a mjority of the guys here that are boosted, are using a J&S. It's looking like it might be a necessity.

Whats your take on it?

 

I've got the J&S on my focus. I figure it's just good insurance if nothing els. I know I feel safer when I see the guage telling me the J&S is doing it's thing. It isn't hard to hook up and I don't think the price is too bad considering what you get.

 

$645 + shipping for the J&S and a gauge, which in our cars we only use it to pull timing. Ahh well yet another thing to buy.

 

^^^ was cheaper few months ago ;-)))) Just recently they raised price...I had one of first after it went up :-(
U can use it without gauge as well for tuning....you just want know exactly how much timing it pulls, but you see if it's pulling (there is one LED on J&S unit)...and by it's brightnes u know if it's pulling a lot or just couple degr.

 

Yep, J&S themselves raised the price and cfm is selling it for the same, so I'm just going to keep hunting on ebay for a while. 600 bucks for a device that pulls some timing. Sure it can do so much more, but no one here is using it for anything more than timing correct? What kills me is it interfaces with the stock knock sensor...where is the 600 dollars going exactly?

 

^^^ stock knock sensor is just an input device....everything that makes J&S is inside their box...I don't think so there is any knock device on market that can pull certain amount of timing (max 10 or 20 degr) for individual cyl. based of input from knock sensor or boost.

 

Oh I know there isn't. It all comes down to specialized hardware. In reality what I'm saying is that there is a ton of specialized hardware on the J&S PCM that we dont take advantage of. It's all moot point because I will end up dropping the 600 regardless, Im just bitching