[binjos]

Well at 82,600 my first DCT issues, I had noticed a decrease in gas mileage and kinda rough shifting, but usually a "Italian tune-up" takes care of it, just had not had the chance to do it !! But last wednesday, 1st odd thing I noticed car was not creeping fwd when brake was released in traffic, later on loss some gears, hesitating, jumping, etc. and got the "Ck Eng." light , later on my Forscan showed DTC code P07A3, "Transmission Friction Element A Stuck On" , was kinda busy and just parked car till friday, tried a few things, checked/cleaned actuators and TCM connectors, grounds, etc, Reset DCT and tried to do the clutch adaptive learning to get more info, but no extended features Forscan licenses available at the moment(war) or ever ??

IAC tried this procedure in this video and it worked Excellent. I deviated some, used a plastic safe contact cleaner (I don't like spraying brake cleaner into rubber seals, etc.) and very little WD-40, JIC it may get into clucth, IAC it is a good penetrant, but very poor lubricant, it will evaporate before it does any harm, IMO. I used a speed handle with a "Brand New" 6mm hex bit (an old/worn bit could slip damage splines) to turn manually as not to force too much, worked back/forth untill iI could count at least 14 turns counter-clockwise and when you release it almost returned on its own, bring it back to clockwise stop, but don't force it, then reinstall motor. BTW actuator "A"(top) was very stiff initially, "B" was better. BTW front wheels where on ramps, to get to "B". Drove around the block, no more issues, a quick ck with Forscan showed no faults, but light on message, reset and never came back.

Did a 15 mile test drive went excellent, car drove like it did when I got it 3.5yrs ago, eerie smooth shifting, good acceleration, also mileage was trending up, basically one hour of work and virtually 0 cost(no parts changed)
This may be a short lived fix, I may have to redo it ??, maybe DCT preventive maintenance ??, but it clearly shows that the dust collecting and high heat in the clutch bell is a bad design, could have done something similar to a scooter clutch/cvt setup.(fan/air filter/access to clean).

IAC I have a new Luk clutch kit, actuators, motors, tools, etc., on hand JIC. Still on all original parts. WKYP

Note: After doing all this, realized there's an tool in the clutch tool kit to turn actuators, better than 6mm hex wrench

Hi, My 2014 Ford Focus with 45000 miles has too many issues: Reverse not working, shuddering, clicking sound soon after opening door etc. OBD shows: P0715, P07A5, P287A. What would you suggest I do? Also, if I tow this car to dealership do you think this car will qualify under 14m02? Or will they just charge me diagnosis fee (few hundred dollars) and tell me that it is not TCM but something else?

Please help me. Thank you so much in advance!

 

[Steve40th]

This is art of the DCT. I started another thread, but I beleive it is the DCT transmission actuators. Thoughts.
No clicking at all for starter.
Symptoms. Strange cycling noise in engine bay near, but can not pinpoint near throttle valve. See video.
Battery 12.9 volts. Grounds were previously redone by me with grinding paint off and dielectric grease.
All lights work. Stereo works, lights work. Turn ignition key on, all dash lights come on. But no start.
Tried jump start to see if that little extra boost would help. Nothing.
Disconnected battery for a while, started right after that, in nuetral. But, it took a while for the shifting into gear to happen. The solenoids arent that old and are oem FORD..
Well, drive vehicle. Went into overheat mode several times. Reset transmission everytime.
I drove it gentle.
I might just need a clutch job, since I am at 164k mules.
I did get code P286F a.

 

[zrx212]

Disconnected battery for a while, started right after that, in nuetral. But, it took a while for the shifting into gear to happen. The solenoids arent that old and are oem FORD..
Well, drive vehicle. Went into overheat mode several times. Reset transmission everytime.
I drove it gentle.

What causes the transmission to overheat is a slipping clutch, period. Either a stuck or sticking clutch actuator lever mechanism or a bad/weak actuator motor and sometimes a clutch assembly failure (Rare, unless abused in overheat mode). The external actuator motors only function is to disengage the clutches by actuating the lever mechanism, they go full travel very, very fast and release, when shifting gears, the spring tension from the clutch pressure plate is what re-engages the clutch and drives actuator mechanism back, similar to any manual transmission.
The only way to ensure your clutch actuators mechanism is properly working, is to remove both actuator motors, turn each spline drive(with spline tool) 12-14 turns counter - clockwise and release, they should return fully on their own. If not, need to fix, see post #221, after fixing replace actuators, Amazon ones work good, I replaced mine several times as preventive maintenance (read back thru thread). BTW, continued use in overheat condition will damage clutch, very $$$ fix.

BTW, how exactly you reset the transmission

 

[Steve40th]

What causes the transmission to overheat is a slipping clutch, period. Either a stuck or sticking clutch actuator lever mechanism or a bad/weak actuator motor and sometimes a clutch assembly failure (Rare, unless abused in overheat mode). The external actuator motors only function is to disengage the clutches by actuating the lever mechanism, they go full travel very, very fast and release, when shifting gears, the spring tension from the clutch pressure plate is what re-engages the clutch and drives actuator mechanism back, similar to any manual transmission.
The only way to ensure your clutch actuators mechanism is properly working, is to remove both actuator motors, turn each spline drive(with spline tool) 12-14 turns counter - clockwise and release, they should return fully on their own. If not, need to fix, see post #221, after fixing replace actuators, Amazon ones work good, I replaced mine several times as preventive maintenance (read back thru thread). BTW, continued use in overheat condition will damage clutch, very $$$ fix.

BTW, how exactly you reset the transmission

When I did the actuators, I did do the test and turned them counter clockwise and released them. When I first installed the actuators, it did the overheat once. I think I wrote about it here. At 164,000 miles, I think a clutch may be due.. But, until I get home, I have no idea the cost and whom I can trust to do it.. Seems like talking to some mechanics is like talking to a person that is sick and tired of customers questioning what will be done when they tear it down and replace it.

 

[Steve40th]

Going to replace actuator when I get home. The top one what the code is for.
I will clean and lube it the best I can and use the wrench to move clutch forks back and forth a few times.
If this doesnt work, I need to justify a clutch, forks, etc replacement on a 164000 mile car. Runs great otherwise.
As soon as I cand find actual costs to replace the parts. Seems nobody can say, I paid this amount anywhere.

 

[zrx212]

As soon as I cand find actual costs to replace the parts. Seems nobody can say, I paid this amount anywhere

A "LUK" clutch kit, new actuator motors and other consumables/fluids, etc. will be approx $1200, DIY free labor and possibly special tool kit, will increase to approx $1,500 total.
Taking it to and/or finding a shop that will do it, $2,500-3,500.
Of course this is assuming your TCM is good and there's no internal issues with transmission itself, besides the clutch 🤔😖

 

[Steve40th]

Seems like actuators are made in Italy and Mexico, according to Ford Parts boxes. Interesting.

 

[Steve40th]

OEM ford is Italy for actuators. I put that in and the car is running great. Went to dealership to find out what was replaced during last two warrantys. Cltuch and fork assemblies, at 48k and 82K miles. So at 164, still some life left in it.

 

[pacormier66]

Thank goodness I found this thread and hopefully those who are very familiar with the wonderful Focus are still around. I have a 2018 Focus SE with a 143000 miles. Just in the past week, after driving for a bit and stopping at a red light or heavy traffic, my car acts like it doesn't want to take off. A couple of times, I have had to shift to L to get it to go. And then a few times while driving, the RPM's will rev up out of nowhere. Does this have anything to do with what you all are taking about? I called a Ford dealership to actually do the 150000 maintenance, which lists a tranny fluid flush, and the dealership refused to do it since it's a DCT. Gosh, I don't want a car payment. Have had this one since 2019. :-(

 

[rschaffter]

Thank goodness I found this thread and hopefully those who are very familiar with the wonderful Focus are still around. I have a 2018 Focus SE with a 143000 miles. Just in the past week, after driving for a bit and stopping at a red light or heavy traffic, my car acts like it doesn't want to take off. A couple of times, I have had to shift to L to get it to go. And then a few times while driving, the RPM's will rev up out of nowhere. Does this have anything to do with what you all are taking about? I called a Ford dealership to actually do the 150000 maintenance, which lists a tranny fluid flush, and the dealership refused to do it since it's a DCT. Gosh, I don't want a car payment. Have had this one since 2019. :-(

There is nothing to flush on the DCT, as it is basically a computer controlled manual. That recommendation is for the EcoBoost models, which have a conventional automatic.

Any Check Engine light? You have exceeded the design lifetime of the clutches, which was 140,000 miles; most folks do not have them last that long. You are probably due for a clutch pack and forks and maybe a control module. I'd reckon $2-3000 at the dealer; an OEM LUK clutch pack and forks are around $700 if you can find an independent mechanic who is willing to work on it., and knows what they are doing.

Good Luck, Rod

 

[pacormier66]

Thank you so much for responding. Since writing my question, a code P2872:00-AC has popped up.

 

[pacormier66]

There is nothing to flush on the DCT, as it is basically a computer controlled manual. That recommendation is for the EcoBoost models, which have a conventional automatic.

Any Check Engine light? You have exceeded the design lifetime of the clutches, which was 140,000 miles; most folks do not have them last that long. You are probably due for a clutch pack and forks and maybe a control module. I'd reckon $2-3000 at the dealer; an OEM LUK clutch pack and forks are around $700 if you can find an independent mechanic who is willing to work on it., and knows what they are doing.

Good Luck, Rod

Thank you so much for responding. Since writing my question, a code P2872:00-AC has popped up.

 

[Steve40th]

code P2872:00-AC

I would say that is the actuator is bad, or stuck.
I dont recommend the driling, but good video on a bandaid fix. Buy the Italian actuators, dont buy the Mexican actuators from ebay.. They are junk Chinesium..
Couldnt find video of upper actuator removal, but its pretty simple. Always disconnect battery prior to install.

Really good video of clutch and install.

 

[pacormier66]

I would say that is the actuator is bad, or stuck.
I dont recommend the driling, but good video on a bandaid fix. Buy the Italian actuators, dont buy the Mexican actuators from ebay.. They are junk Chinesium..
Couldnt find video of upper actuator removal, but its pretty simple. Always disconnect battery prior to install.

Really good video of clutch and install.

THANK YOU SO MUCH! I have ordered upper and lower from Ford and awaiting their arrival. I am in deep prayer that this is the issue! I also ordered the actuator tool to test the forks.

 

[Steve40th]

THANK YOU SO MUCH! I have ordered upper and lower from Ford and awaiting their arrival. I am in deep prayer that this is the issue! I also ordered the actuator tool to test the forks.

No problem. This thread on this DCT issue has helped me out significantly.. Use OEM Ford parts, which are made in Italy. The fake ebay boxes will show a Ford emblem on the box, but a little faded, and they say made in Mexico. When you order, all of them come from Otranto CA, which is a hub for Chinese parts. I say all, but I looked a 30 to 40 while shopping my last time. They are painted light gray and are a bit different when you physically look at OEM, which are not painted and tak welded at base to hold top and bottom.

 

[pacormier66]

No problem. This thread on this DCT issue has helped me out significantly.. Use OEM Ford parts, which are made in Italy. The fake ebay boxes will show a Ford emblem on the box, but a little faded, and they say made in Mexico. When you order, all of them come from Otranto CA, which is a hub for Chinese parts. I say all, but I looked a 30 to 40 while shopping my last time. They are painted light gray and are a bit different when you physically look at OEM, which are not painted and tak welded at base to hold top and bottom.

Yes, I saw the painted one and I could tell it didn't look right. I ordered directly from a Ford website so hopefully they are the real deal. This is SO worth a try before I even think about a rebuild. I just had my truck tranny rebuilt last year and still paying that off. I totally love my little buggy so this is quite devastating, to say the least.