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M0L0TOV

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03 Focus ZX-5 Zetec
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18 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi there,
I've been running into a weird issue that I've been trying to resolve with my 03 Focus ZX-5 (a/t). So my car has been essentially surging forward when I'm at a stop with my foot on the brakes. Sometimes, when I put the car in reverse, the revs are really high. If I keep my foot on the brakes (it'll go up to 2-3K rpm's just fighting me), it will eventually stall out and I have to restart the vehicle. It started doing this when I'm driving the vehicle in drive and stuck in traffic (my mechanic said the sensors for the transmission are fine as well). I'll hear an occasional click, it used to be more prominent (I noticed the lights would flicker as well as the LCD for the mileage). You've named it, I've probably had it replaced. Throttle body and alternator, replaced. My mechanic says there isn't a vacuum leak. I checked all the relays, nothing. When I checked the relays, I noticed R24 on the driver's side was hot (the source of the clicking noise). I did research, someone had a similar issue and it said a bad ground somewhere associated with the wiring that leads to the alternator, I replaced that whole set (battery leads and all). Issue is more noticeable with the A/C on. If I take my foot off the accelerator, sometimes the car will keep accelerating. I checked to see if the pedal was sticking but it's not. I thought maybe the fan was the problem because when it kicked in, the car would surge. Read up on the pigtails going bad on the fan connector, sure enough, it was bad. I also replaced the fan resistor relay since it was melted as well. When I start it, it starts at a higher RPM, like if I were stepping on the accelerator as I started it. I honestly have no clue what else to do.

I know you could say I should junk it but the car has sentimental value to me. My deceased father bought it for me while I was in college (my first almost new car). I can do some repairs myself but not everything. Any assistance is greatly appreciated!
 
When the revs go high, try disconnecting the IAC valve to see if it corrects the issue or stalls out the engine. There is definitely too much air somehow getting to the engine, which is causing the issue.
 
Yes. You MUST have leaking extra air to raise rpm like that as the car does not have electronic throttle. Need to know engine type, there are 3 in that year.

Vacuum leak or IAC messed up. Get a new mechanic.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Hopefully this goes through. I have the 2.0L Zetec. Sorry for the late response, it's been impossible for me to verify my account for some reason, I had to reach out to support. Edit: I replaced the IAC Valve over the weekend (my god what a pain)and the issue still persists. The PCV valve hose was replaced a few years ago and it's the one with the shielding to protect it. I wonder if I have an electrical gremlin somewhere because I can hear the relay inside the car clicking. Or could a vacuum leak be causing that as well?
 
Hopefully this goes through. I have the 2.0L Zetec. Sorry for the late response, it's been impossible for me to verify my account for some reason, I had to reach out to support. Edit: I replaced the IAC Valve over the weekend (my god what a pain)and the issue still persists. The PCV valve hose was replaced a few years ago and it's the one with the shielding to protect it. I wonder if I have an electrical gremlin somewhere because I can hear the relay inside the car clicking. Or could a vacuum leak be causing that as well?
If you used anything but a motorcfaft pcv hose I would suspect it first. The elbow to the pcv valve is another failure point as well as the pcv grommet.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
If you used anything but a motorcfaft pcv hose I would suspect it first. The elbow to the pcv valve is another failure point as well as the pcv grommet.
Definitely a Motorcraft pcv hose. I'll check again and see if there's something I missed when I get home from work. I think I might even have a new spare!
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Okay, I was able to get it to run until it's stalled. I noticed that when the car stalled out if I am staring at the front of the engine the front left where the passenger side is made a hissing noise after it cut out so I'm guessing that's where my vacuum leak would be correct? It's towards the back left.
 
PCV hose in back of motor by that location. Also, a new throttle body if vacuum leak at it due to incompetent tightening, it being plastic and warps easy if too tight. A new base gasket MUSTY be used too and common to try to reuse them as they 'look OK'. Big mistake. Vacuum leak.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
PCV hose in back of motor by that location. Also, a new throttle body if vacuum leak at it due to incompetent tightening, it being plastic and warps easy if too tight. A new base gasket MUSTY be used too and common to try to reuse them as they 'look OK'. Big mistake. Vacuum leak.
I'll definitely be checking it out after work, I might have a spare new hose, I'll have to check (I bought a hose because the elbow and hose came as one piece and the elbow broke once).
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Update: I replaced the evap purge valve thinking that was the issue because I thought that's where the hiss was coming from. No luck. :( one thing I did notice, I don't know if the surge is so strong or I'm losing vacuum on the brakes because they're all the way to the floor when it happens and the brakes just seem weak.
 
Update: I replaced the evap purge valve thinking that was the issue because I thought that's where the hiss was coming from. No luck. :( one thing I did notice, I don't know if the surge is so strong or I'm losing vacuum on the brakes because they're all the way to the floor when it happens and the brakes just seem weak.
Possible the brake booster hose has pulled out of the intake partially.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
The car gets screwier and screwier. I scanned the OBD and it told me that the engine knock sensor was bad. Some of the process of removing it and the hazards start flashing and then it just starts acting all possessed. I'm including a video.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Have you replaced the battery? That looks like what happens when the alarm is triggered by a low battery.
Battery has been replaced and it has been plagued by an electrical gremlin that would drain the battery. I replaced the cable that goes from the alternator to the battery because a bad cable with a bad ground somewhere could cause the issue.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Another update. I was able to change the knock sensor on the car yesterday. It didn't seem to cut out and I was hopeful that maybe my issue was resolved. I did a test drive and yeah, the car is still accelerating while my foot is NOT on the pedal. I again had to have my foot to the floor on the pedal to stop my car from surging forward. I thought as a quick test to see if the brake booster was bad was to turn on the car, push the brake all the way down wait a few minutes, turn off the car, and if the brake pushes back up at you, then you have a vacuum leak. I didn't get that but maybe I did it wrong. I have a smoke machine so that's the next project for this weekend. If I do have a vacuum leak on the brake booster, will the smoke test show that? Is there a spot I can connect my smoke machine to verify that? Edit: I'd also like to thank everyone who has been chiming in, you ALL have been helpful. I'm definitely learning a lot doing all this.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
So I used my smoke generator and hooked it up to most vacuum ports. I didn't see anything. :( I'm at a complete loss. Maybe the brake booster has a vacuum leak but the engine works hard enough to maintain pressure despite the leak? I have one of those fancy OBD readers, is there something I should monitor while the car is running with my scanner to help me help narrow down the issue. I'm not pulling any codes besides the P1000 code since I keep disconnecting the battery when working on things.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
So I dropped off the Focus at another mechanic (that has a great reputation in my area) and after he looked at it, he suggested taking it to the Ford dealer and have them flash the ECU. I'll be picking up the vehicle tomorrow. Should I try a Hail Mary and disconnect the battery and see if it the ECU will relearn? I still find it weird that was his advice because I think even with faulty programming, I wouldn't hear a relay clicking.
 
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