Get a good GReddy EBC and buy the remote switch.

Turbo SVT are real bad about spinning in first and second, come off the line in low boost when you hit 3rd push the remote switch that mounts on the steering wheel and put it in high boost and LET IT EAT!!!!!

 

Where do you buy this and will it work with the spec 2 ??

 

the GReddy Profec Type S is a pretty good one, yea? does it come with the steering wheel remote switch? wouldnt that be a PITA to keep switching from low to high boost everytime you switch to 2nd or 3rd though? how quick of a response is it when you push the button?

 

They had a set up like that on the FSwerk car that they were tracking. You might wanna pick their brain as well ... doesn't hurt to ask as many people as possible.

They deemed it the "Easy Button"

 

setup like a high boost button on the steering wheel? or like a boost by gear?

 

I like the button Idea. How often do you really want to have your high boost on anyway. My brother has an electronic boost controller with the remote "Scramble Boost" function in his Turbo Del Sol. He has it set to a switch, but he has such HUGE lag he never really gets traction problems anyway. (He has a 55mm turbo on his d16 Honda.)

 

what about the 2 step. that would be nice for the track.

 

Just setup the 2-step (launch control) in the SCT software

 

e-boost 2 for boost per gear, you can also manage it by rpm. Then I have a programmable dis-2 for 2 step. On reg gas you can shoot flames, on e85 you can make a nice smoke screen.

 

who makes the e-boost 2 for the ebc? and same question for dis-2.

and as far as the shooting flames, not really a selling point. I wont be running e-85, and I want this for actually performance, not for looks. shooting flames would be the quickest way to get spotted by a cop, get a ref ticket, then bye bye turbo kit

 

http://turbosmartdirect.com/front/i...egory_id=2&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=26&vmcchk=1&Itemid=26

seems kinda sketch to me. 'turbosmart' isnt that an ebay brand?

 

The GReddy remote switching system will work with ANY GReddy EBC.

Personally I run the Profec Type S with the switch and it switches in an instant between low and high. Everytime you push the button it switches so you can be running in high boost and switch back to low boost for those nice curves.

It take about 10 minutes to hook it up and it runs around $135.... but its WELL worth it.

 

Interesting. Mind posting a picture of where you have yours mounted so I can see the size and whatnot? How does it mount so the cable doesn't get tangled when you turn?

 

I have the TurboSmart Eboost2 controller and I have the Greddy steering wheel remote switch hooked up to it. The Eboost2 has several options for switching boost levels. Currently, I have mine setup to progressively switch from one boost level to the next. It can store as much as 6 different boost levels in this mode. I then have a push button switch mounted to reset the boost levels back to level 1. When drag racing, I launch at probably 14psi, then hit the button to go to 16psi in 2nd gear, and then hit the button again in 3rd gear to run 21psi. Each boost group/level can have its own settings in terms of how quickly you want the boost to come on and if you want the EBC to compensate for boost drop off when using a smaller than ideal turbo.

OH, and check F2Focus for the best price on the Eboost2. They were too low to advertise when I purchased mine []

Another nice feature is the high boost recall and high rpm recall button (if you have rpm hooked up).

 

I also have the GReedy type S with the remote HI boost switch. You wont fond an easier to set EBC out there , No BS to set and change other then a low boost and hi boost knob

Tom

 

anyone got any pics of how they have there's mounted?

 

and where to buy one!!?!???

 

F2focus for the Eboost2 and Ebay for the Greddy steering wheel remote. I was looking through my pictures but I guess I never took one since I installed the remote.

 

does the sct have a true 2step/launch control? or is it the same one on the x3 that turns on evertime u push the clutch no matter wait speed u go....

 

It will only let you 2-step when your at a dead stop. as soon as it see's 1mph it cuts off and lets you rev out

 

The remote switch is battery powered (NO WIRES) the reciever simply plugs into the back of your GReddy EBC.

The switch itself attatches with Velcro. Unfortunatly I dont have any pics of it.

Just google Greddy Remote Switch and you should find all kinds of places that sell it.

 

good. cuz the feature on the x3 is a "neutral" rev limit so when ever u push in the clutch it goes to the limited rev.
i will def. have to have that on my next tune.

 

Its the same software, be it on a xcal1,2 or 3 isnt going to make any difference.

Now if you went in and changed the MPH where it kicked out at then it could definitly work.

 

old thread, I know, but what about a boost cut feature? I was just thinking of this as one of my srt buddy's boost lines popped off and he spiked hella high. luckily for him, he had a built motor and he let off quickly, so no damage was done. but what about for our cars? I dont want something popping off on accident and pop my motor. I would really like to do boost by gear if possible instead of the greddy where its only low boost/high boost. would like to keep my hands on the wheel instead of pushing a button (and don't feel like mounting the button on my wheel if I don't have to). the avcr seems like a good option, but just not sure if it has a boost cut feature.

ideas?

 

also, I'll have the J&S safeguard installed on this setup. not sure if they're is a feature like that w/the safeguard.

 

J&S has no additional safety features that I'm aware of. It just detects knock and pulls timing.

 

It also has boost retard and switched retard.

 

well I'd assume w/a crazy boost spike, there'd be some serious knock. lol would it retard timing in that scenario? haha

 

Yeah, there could be knock, but the J&S isn't invincible. If you're cramming 55psi in there, you can only do so much. It would be better to have a boost-activated switch that cuts the signal to your coilpack entirely so that you don't get *any* spark.

 

now you're talkin. that sounds like a good idea. how would I set something like that up?

 

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...rchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-BCS-003&Category_Code=BCS

Hook this up to a boost source, then hook that up to a fuse that blows out from a very low current or something like that. Have the fuse connected to one of the coilpack wires.