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Why you should run synthetic oil in your Ford Focus

80K views 80 replies 44 participants last post by  1turbofocus  
#1 · (Edited)
Why you should run synthetic oil in your GDI engine

I don't dispute that millions of engines have done just fine over the years running conventional motor oil with regularly scheduled oil changes. But here is my take on the story and why the old school wisdom no longer applies to direct injected engines..

A little background:
The MK3 Focus uses Ford's GDI (Gasoline Direct Injection) engine. What this means is that the fuel injectors have been moved inside the combustion chamber of the engine. This improves power and provides improved fuel economy by allowing more precise control of the fuel/air mixture by the computer. Ford also increased the compression to 12:1 on the GDI engine.

Any negative aspects of Direct Injection and what does this have to do with my oil choice?
The main problems with Direct Injection are carbon fouling of the intake valves, fuel dilution of the oil and oil blow by contaminating the intake valves. (Ford claims to have solved the oil blow by problem with their variable valve timing algorithm)

Why you should still follow Ford's oil change interval
If you are tempted to lengthen your oil change interval on the GDI engine, don't. Even if you use the most advanced Group V base stock synthetic oil, there may still be fuel dilution of the oil due to the nature of the GDI engine. Fuel dilution increases volatility and reduces lubricating capacity. The only way to remove this is with regular oil changes following Ford's schedule.

So why run a synthetic oil in a GDI engine if conventional oil is almost as good and much cheaper?
Volatility and viscosity. Some synthetic oils offer a very low volatility (NOACK) What this means is that less oil vapor is given off at operating temperature than a higher volatility conventional oil. That oil vapor can't be vented to the atmosphere. Because of emissions requirements, it is routed back to the intake manifold through the PCV valve. Those oil deposits start to collect on your intake valves and you may soon experience loss of power, rough idle, stumbling on acceleration and engine misfire codes. Once the carbon is that bad, the only way to remedy it is to manually clean the valves. This requires the removal of the intake manifold and possibly the head, (very expensive) So it is in your best interest to run the lowest volatility synthetic oil in your Focus that you can buy. Pennzoil has also done research on the carbon fouling issue and they believe that running a narrow viscosity span oil such as 5W-20 (that Ford recommends) is beneficial. This is due to the fact there are less viscosity index improvers in 5W-20 vs 5W-30 etc.

Can't i just run a top tier gas such as Shell V-Power to keep my intake valves clean?
I recommend top tier gas but it will do nothing to clean your intake valves because the fuel injectors are inside the combustion chamber and the detergent fuel never washes over the valves. Only air and oil vapor from the PCV valve passes over the valves and this is why it is critical to use a low volatility synthetic oil in your GDI engine. Remember it is not a matter of having sufficient lubrication for engine longevity. A conventional oil could also provide a long service life. Running a low volatility synthetic is a matter of trying to prevent carbon fouling of the intake valves.

What about a catch can?
(An aftermarket reservoir that is plumbed in to the PCV return line to catch oil before it reaches the intake manifold)

I don't recommend it for several reasons:

1. Dozens of these have become available; quality varies and there is little evidence they are truly effective. Even if they work as advertised, they only catch liquid oil, not the oil vapor that contaminates intake valves. The only unit that can catch oil vapor is the Mann-Hummel Provent. It contains a replaceable filter. It is expensive and requires periodic maintenance.

2. It is illegal to alter the emissions system.

3. It may void your factory warranty.

4. The 2.0 GDI engine already has an oil separator from the factory. The Ford engineers cleverly routed the separated oil back to the crankcase so there is no maintenance. But the factory oil separator has the same limitation as a catch can: it can only separate liquid oil. Vapor still passes through to the intake manifold.

What synthetic oil is best?
Here is a chart of most of the major brand synthetics so you can compare. This chart lists data for 5W-30 oil but it will give you an idea of which synthetics have lower NOACK volatility scores.

http://pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html

I run Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20 which sports a NOACK score of 5. Ultra 5W-30 has a NOACK of 6.4 and Ultra 10W-30 has a NOACK of 4.8. These are the lowest NOACK scores of all the major brand synthetics and almost as low as much more expensive boutique oils such as Amsoil. Here is the full product data for Pennzoil Ultra:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...UpD0Jofc2QXrwIDgBQ&usg=AFQjCNEeIraAVj7a_G0pmOBnFu6RznS3Wg&bvm=bv.51773540,d.b2I

Anything else I can do to keep my intake valves clear of carbon?
Do an "Italian tuneup" Take your car out on the highway and get your revs up to 4000 and hold it for 20 minutes. The intake valves will get very hot and this combined with high intake velocities will burn off light carbon deposits.

The lower the volatility of the oil, the less oil vapor will be returned to the intake manifold.

wavsine

Picture of BMW Direct Injection engine after 53,000 miles of oil vapor passing over the intake valves. Second picture is after disassembly and manual cleaning.
 

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#3 ·
OK so I literally just changed my old for the 6th time in 19.5k miles. Since the first @~1,000 miles I've been using Pennzoil ultra and just changed it again on Monday but now at Walmart and any other store I can only find Pennzoil platinum? I asked them if they've discontinued the Ultra and they said no. Are you having stock issues trying to find some? I'll have to try to find some before the next oil change. Any difference in the NAOCK in platinum vs ultra?
 
#4 ·
Yes, Pennzoil Ultra has a much lower NOACK score than Pennzoil Platinum. Here is the story on that. Pennzoil Ultra, when it was originally formulated, had a NOACK score very similar to Pennzoil Platinum. In Novemebr 2011, Pennzoil reformulated Ultra and the NOACK score dropped to 5 on 5w-20 synthetic.

http://www.prnewswire.com/news-rele...-newly-reformulated-pennzoil-ultra-continues-to-clean-up-engines-133617108.html

Pennzoil Ultra has the lowest NOACK of any major brand synthetic oil. The moral of the story is check the date on the jug of Ultra and make sure the manufacture date is recent. The new Ultra is also SN rated and I believe the old was SM rated.

Here is the full data on the newly reformulated Pennzoil Ultra:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...UpD0Jofc2QXrwIDgBQ&usg=AFQjCNEeIraAVj7a_G0pmOBnFu6RznS3Wg&bvm=bv.51773540,d.b2I

As far as availability goes, Walmart does still carry it in their stores but is hit and miss. In the DFW area, some Walmarts have it and some don't
 
#5 ·
OK. Well I'll just keep checking. I love the oil in the Focus and my previous car that took 10w-30. I'd like to not switch down from the ultra to the platinum so I'll just keep searching. Thanks. Good info and good news they're still making it.
 
#6 ·
1. Wavsine, I mean no disrespect when I ask this, but what are your qualifications? Why do I care what you recommend? For all I know, you're just a guy on the internet.

2. What do we know of the history of the BMW engine in the admittedly very impressive-looking picture? For all I know, it had no oil changes at all for 53,000 miles.

3. What evidence is there (besides theory) that synthetic oil will prevent such disasters as we see in the photo? Any pics of a similar motor with 53,000 miles of only synthetic oil changes? You say yourself that synthetic oil has lower volatility, but that doesn't mean it has none at all, does it? Therefore, logic would dictate that we'll see similar deposits accumulate with synthetic oil as well, albeit at some (theoretically) lower rate.

I'm just wanting to know why what you say is anything other than your opinion.
 
#7 ·
I am a firm believer do it at 5000 miles regular driving oil is oil. I do use synthetic blend. I am a little hard on vehicles. The oil topic has been beaten to death in here as is using regular or premium fuel. lol But you have valid points as well :)
 
#9 ·
FWIW, Ford uses and recommends synthetic blend, so I don't know why anyone would go with conventional vs the factory recommendation to begin with. My GDI turbo Sonata also had syn blend from the factory. They recommended a 4800 mile severe service duty cycle even for synthetic oil due to the turbo being cooled by the engine's own oil supply.

Personally I have and will always use Mobil 1 in my cars including the Focus. I can't point to any scientific reason why other than my perception that it holds up better in the nearly all city/stop & go driving I do. I'll probably just use the dummy light to tell me when to change it next. I changed it at 1000 miles and am just under 1600 now. I expect to get at least 5000 miles out of it.

I also use premium fuel exclusively. I dont' care to convince anyone to do the same - its my money and my choice. If nothing else it provides 20 cents/gal worth of psychological benefit.
 
#14 ·
Ford recommends/requires an oil that meets its current spec (WSS..945.). Conventional SN 5w/20 almost always meets this spec, so my bet is a majority of Mk 3 Focuses will live on a diet of non-full synthetic, non-blend, plain old entry level motor oil. Now combine that with DI and Ford's suggested 10,000 mile (under the right circumstances) interval...
 
#13 ·
When I still changed my own oil,I used the 5 qt jug of motorcraft 5w-20 syn blend available at wally world. At the time I was paying about 13 bucks for a jug, plus 1.99 per qt (my truck took 7 qts)and 2.99 for the motorcraft filter. An oil change cost me 20 bucks.
 
#27 ·
I use mobil 1 and change oil every 5k miles in my 13 focus and 13 escape. I don't go by the oil light. My 05 escape had 130k plus on it when I traded it and I used motorcraft syn blend in it its whole life. I think with oil, changing it regularly is more important than the brand you use.
 
#32 ·
What he is failing to put is he is only talking about the 2012 + Focus and as much as I hate to agree with him everyone should be running a synthetic oil for many reasons and to think that a synthetic oil cannot cause the 2012+ Focus engine to look like picture one should look more into oils , synthetic oils will take longer to make this happen but when you mix everything that comes from inside the engine (oil , water , gas carbon etc) then put it back through the intake port you going to get a buildup

Change your oil regularly is the biggest thing in my opinion the biggest thng you can do for the engine , I would even change the synthetic at normal changes vs buying the high mile stuff

Me I wouldnt run pennzoil in anything

Tom
 
#34 ·
Me I wouldnt run pennzoil in anything
Tom
I have already mentioned that Pennzoil Ultra has the lowest NOACK volatility score of any major brand synthetic. The NOACK score along with a narrow span viscosity grade are the two most important oil choice factors influencing intake valve carbon fouling of the Gasoline Direct Injection Engine. Now let's take at look at load carrying capacity/film strength of some of the major brand synthetics. Here is the ranking of just a few in order of load carrying capacity/film strength performance:

1. 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra = 115,612 psi
zinc = 806 ppm
phos = 812 ppm
moly = 66 ppm
NOACK 6.4
(Note: The NOACK score for Pennzoil Ultra 5W-20 is even lower at 5 but I am only comparing 5W-30 synthetics here)

2. 5W30 Mobil 1, API SN = 105,875 psi
zinc = 801 ppm
phos = 842 ppm
moly = 112 ppm
NOACK 10.1

3. 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN = 95,920 psi
zinc = 877 ppm
phos = 921 ppm
moly = 72 ppm
NOACK 8.8

4. 5W30 Valvoline SynPower, API SN = 94,942 psi
zinc = 969 ppm
phos = 761 ppm
moly = 0 ppm
NOACK 11.6

Product data sheet on Pennzoil Ultra:
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...jw2QXozIGoAg&usg=AFQjCNEeIraAVj7a_G0pmOBnFu6RznS3Wg&sig2=svBwuf1pf6M3L7Hp_gbcaA

Changing your oil often is a good idea but remember if you are simply changing out high volatiltiy oil with fresh high volatiltity oil, you aren't helping things much in terms of your intake valves staying free of carbon so I recommend choosing a synthetic with a very low NOACK volatility score. Frequent oil changes with any oil will help with the fuel dilution problem though.

I realize you are not an engineer but you might want to reconsider making blanket statements about a particular oil brand without empirical data to back it up.
 
#33 ·
What's important is that you use a quality oil and quality filter. Do not overlook the filter! Remember, the most expensive part of owning a car is fuel. Next is the purchase price of the vehicle. Eventually you get to wearable items (such as tires and brakes), actual repairs, and routine maintenance (oil changes, fuilds, filters, and such).

Spending a little more on the pieces that prevent wear ultimately should lead to longer life and a lower total cost of ownership. Just use something that stacks up. No sludgie oil and cheap filters. That's the most important. I've got my go to products.
 
#36 ·
wavsine numbers and benchmarks are only as good as the method they were built on. In real world applications, does a NOACK of 5 actually matter vs. 8 or 10? Just because the numbers say something doesn't mean they are useful numbers.

Are you an engineer? You sound more like a Pennzoil marketer.
 
#37 ·
I do not work for Pennzoil, sell Pennzoil or have anything to do with them. In fact, I had stocked up on Valvoline Synpower because I found it at a great price at Wally World for $17/5qt. jug. It is excellent oil but when I began researching oil for my newly acquired Focus GDI, I learned that you should run a low volatility oil. Pennzoil is not the only synthetic with low NOACK. I posted this chart of major synthetics so you can decide.

http://pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html

The Petroleum Quality Institute states:
"NOACK volatility determines the evaporative loss of engine oils. This test is important because the operating temperatures of an engine will typically drive off the lighter ends of a lubricant while in service. This effectively results in pushing the viscosity of the lubricant to a more viscous level (up) and, as a result, fuel economy goes down due to an increase in parasitic load.

The evaporation loss is of particular importance in engine lubrication. Where high temperatures occur, portions of an oil can evaporate. Evaporation may contribute to oil consumption in an engine and can lead to a change in the properties of an oil."

So the NOACK score is important for two reasons. Volatile loss can actually change the lubricating properties of the oil while also contributing to intake valve carbon fouling as the lighter ends of the oil burn off and recirculate to the intake manifold through the PCV system.

You asked "Just because the numbers say something doesn't mean they are useful numbers?" The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) believes the NOACK score is very important.

It would be hard to exactly quantify how much difference there would be between running a NOACK 5 vs 8 because there are too many variables in engine design, actual operating temperature etc. (I would not have a problem with running a NOACK 8 oil.) But testing oils in the lab with a level playing field gives a good idea which oils will perform better.

The ASTM D5800-08 Standard does just that by establishing a test method for evaporation loss of lubricating oils by the NOACK method:
http://www.astm.org/DATABASE.CART/HISTORICAL/D5800-08.htm
 
#43 · (Edited)
Me personally, I just don't buy the hype. I see no reason to waste money on pure synthetic when your going to change it out in 3-5K miles. You can throw all kinds of charts and data out there but it don't mean squat to me. I use what ford recommends and if it causes a problem down the road, then that is why I have the extended warranty. Besides, I get my oil changes done at the dealer, there were all prepaid when I purchased the car. And more than likely the car will be gone before I get any real miles on it, I bought the Ti in Jan of 12 and I only have 13K on it so far. And the 13 Se I leased in May has 465 miles on it, I've only had to put gas in it once.

Wavsine what qualifications do you have? or are you just another internet genius who don't know your a$$ from a hole in the ground.
 
#45 ·
The FL-910s filter is small. I'm using a Purolator Pure One PL20195 on mine. It has about double the capacity and media of the FL-910s.

Do you mean to say you're using an FL-1A on your Zetec? I've never tried that fitment... I'm still using the 400s. I have an FL-1A available at home that I will try fitting to the 2012 when I change oil in the next couple of weeks. If it fits, it would probably be a better option than the PL20195 that hangs down a little low behind the bumper.

Man, that would be awesome if the FL-1A fits the Ti-VCT and the Zetec... That would mean I can buy the FL-1A for all four of my vehicles.
 
#51 ·
I run FL1A on all three of my zetecs as well.

The pic showing how the dome end bypass can let dirty oil back in is moronic, many filters do not orient at a 45 degree angle, when lying on their sides like these the chance for dirty oil getting by is equal both ways. Gotta love how facts are twisted out of shape there.
 
#52 ·
Well, initially this thread was relating the the Ti-VCT motor. The oil filter mounts thread-end up on that one, so things aren't as twisted as you might think. This is not a motor-specific forum.