I use 233 ft. lbs. listed on mitchellondemand. I haven't had any problems and the car has new wheel bearings and a used half shaft. I hope that helps.

 

Thanks for the help!!

I use 233 ft. lbs. listed on mitchellondemand.

It helps a lot. I just changed my right axle and I have a new noise that is obviously related to the output of the trans. I thought I might have over-tightened the nut and was hearing a wheel bearing that was squeezed too much. Now I know I didn't tighten it too much. I'd really have to try to go over 233 ft. lbs. with my 20" breaker bar.

The old style wheel bearings (still in use today for inexpensive wheeled apparatus such utility trailers) were two tapered bearing sets with the small end of the cones pointing toward each other. Those could easily be over-tightened.

I do have a 250 lb. torque wrench, so I can now make sure it is tight enough.

 

dont overtighten with an impact! it will crush the bearing.

 

Posted via FF MobileGood hint there, it`s a high spec., you need a larger torque wrench or a cheater arm & the right calculations to set it properly... (tool box has 3 torque wrenches now to cover both lower than average #s & higher #s like this one)

 

i had to rent a torque wrenche for that nut.

 

Posted via FF MobileYup - better safe.....

 

Good deal. I'm glad I could help out a little bit.

 

well crap. i think i muffed the whole deal up on my svt. changed strut mounts, test drove it. old noise was gone, new noise appeared.and now my bearings have a TON of play. we assumed that we did not tighten the hub nut enough, so we hit it with the impact, and most of the play is gone. still a bit of play on the passenger side but only in a vertical movement... wish i had looked this up just a few hours sooner.

 

I would not be using an impact there, way too easy to knock dents into the bearing. You also cannot feel the nut giving way if it does not pull up properly to torque, even new ones occasionally are no good and the threads pull loose.

 

Hindsight is definetly 20/20.

 

If you weigh 233 pounds and have a breaker bar that is 18" long (1.5 feet), grab it at 12" inches measured from the center of the socket drive attachment ( where the socket attaches - 1/2" or 3/4" drive). Your hand should be centered on the 12" mark. While standing on an accurate scale - you have applied the correct torque when the scale reads ZERO pounds (you have accentually lifted yourself off the scale). Your low end commercial grade torque wrenches are probably accurate to +/-4%. Harbor Freight - $80 US.

What if I only weighed 150lbs? Answer - You'll need a longer breaker bar "hand position", or drink some water ~8lbs/gallon!

Torque Required (TR) = 233 ft-lbs
Your weight (W) = 150lbs
HAND POSITION, distance in feet (Hf) = ??

Hf = TR/W; Hf = 233/150; H = 1.553 feet; H (in inches) = 1.553x12 = 18.6 inches.


What if I'm off by ONLY AN inch?

Torque applied = Hf*W

@ 17.6 inches ( 1.467 ft. ) you have applied: 220.05 ft-lbs Or -5.5% required torque
@ 19.6 inches ( 1.633 ft. ) you have applied: 244.95 ft-lbs Or +5.1% required torque


What if...... acquire a calibrated torque wrench. (How accurate is your scale?)

 

Nice. That got hectic quick. I'm glad I have a torque wrench.