in case anyone doing a rebuild is curious i figured it out.

Connecting rod bolts: 26 ft-lbs + 90 degrees turn (stretch torque bolts)

Head bolts: 15lbs sequentially, then torque to 30lbs sequentially, Then + 90 degrees (stretch torque bolts)

 

How did you figure that out? Are those proper OEM head bolt torque specs that you got from where..?
Just curious because i bought a Comp Orange with blown head gasket and now it's all standing still because i cant find any damn info about the proper cylinder head bolt torque, not in this forum, not on FJ, not anywhere, not even in Mitchell or AllData...

 

SECTION 303-01A: Engine - 2.0L Zetec-E 2000 Focus Workshop Manual
SPECIFICATIONS
________________________________________

Engine Data
2.0L DOHC 16V
Engine management EEC V/SEFI
Emission standard 96 EEC
Fuel 91 RON unleaded
Identification code CAA
Firing order 1-3-4-2
Bore 84.8 mm
Stroke 88.0 mm
Cubic capacity 1,988 cm 3
Compression ratio 9.6:1
Maximum engine performance at 5,300 rpm 130 hp
Maximum engine torque at 4,000 rpm 130 lb ft
Idle speed rpm 800 rpm
Speed limitation (rev/min) 7,100 rpm


Engine oil
Viscosity/ambient temperature Description Specification
Recommended engine oils – –
SAE 5W-20 / below -30°C to over +40°C SAE 5W-20 Engine Oil certified for gasoline engines by the american Petroleum Institute ILSAC GF-3 and WSS-M2C153-H
SAE 5W-20 / below -30°C to over +40°C Ford Formula E Economy Engine Oil ACEA A1/B1 and WSS-M2C914-A
If engine oils of this specification are not available, engine oils of specification API SH/EC, ACEA A2/B2 or ACEA A3/B3 may also be used.


Capacities
Litres
Engine oil, initial fill including filter 4.35
Engine oil, oil change including filter 4.25
Engine oil, oil change excluding filter 3.75


Lubricants, Fluids, Sealers and Adhesives
Item Specification
Sealant, camshaft bearing caps WSK-M2G348-A5
Sealant, cylinder block mating faces (Hylosil 502) WSK-M4G320-A
Sealant, cylinder block mating faces (Loctite Ultrablack) (alternative) WSE-M4G320-A2
Sealant, crankshaft position sensor ESW-1C155-A
Sealant, crankshaft position sensor (alternative) WSD-M1C-226-A
Sealant, oil pan WSE-M4G323-A6
Thread locking compound SDM-M4G9107-A
Spark plug thread lubricant (Never Seeze) WSD-M13P8-A1
Lubricant, injection nozzle O-rings WSEM-2C903-A1
Silicone grease for spark plug connector seal A696-M1C171-AA
High-temperature grease for clutch disc engagement splines ESD-M1C220-A


Cylinder Block
Description mm
Cylinder bore diameter, class 1. 84.800 - 84.810
Cylinder bore diameter, class 2. 84.810 - 84.820
Cylinder bore diameter, class 3. 84.820 - 84.830
Inner diameter, main bearing shells installed 58.011 - 58.038
Inner diameter, main bearing shells installed (main bearing shells with stepped sizes) 58.008 - 58.031
Main bearing radial clearance 0.011 - 0.058
Main bearing radial clearance (main bearing shells with stepped sizes) 0.020 - 0.042
Main bearing parent bore 62.287 - 62.300


Pistons
Description mm
Piston diameter, class 1. 84.770 - 84.780
Piston diameter, class 2. 84.780 - 84.790
Piston diameter, class 3. 84.790 - 84.800
Piston clearance in cylinder 0.010 - 0.030
Piston ring gaps (installed)
- upper compression ring 0.30 - 0.50
- lower compression ring 0.30 - 0.50
- oil scraper ring 0.40 - 1.40
Ring gap position: The piston ring gaps must be distributed evenly around the circumference of the piston This also applies to the oil scraper ring elements. Align the ring gaps at 120 degrees to each other.


Crankshaft
Description mm
Main bearing journal diameter 57.980-58.000
Main bearing journal end float 0.09-0.26
Connecting rod bearing journal diameter 46.89-46.91


Lower Crankshaft Spacer
Description mm
Required spacer washer thickness if there is a gap between the cylinder block and the lower crankcase of:
0.26 mm - 0.50 mm 0.25
0.51 mm - 0.75 mm 0.50


Connecting Rod
Description mm
Big end bore diameter 49.89 - 49.91
Small end bore diameter 19.951 - 19.981
Inner diameter, connecting rod bearing shells installed 46.926 - 46.960
Radial connecting rod bearing clearance 0.016 - 0.070
Axial connecting rod bearing clearance 0.090 - 0.320


Piston Pin
Description mm
Piston pin length 55.800 - 56.200
Piston pin diameter, white 19.997 - 20.000
Piston pin diameter, red 20.625 - 20.628
Piston pin clearance in piston 0.016 - 0.049


Camshaft
Description mm
Bearing journal diameter 25.960 - 25.980
Camshaft bearing radial clearance 0.020 - 0.070
Camshaft end float 0.080 - 0.220
Lobe lift intake 8.90
Lobe lift exhaust 8.70
Theoretical valve maximum lift intake 8.90
Theoretical valve maximum lift exhaust 8.70


Valves
Description mm
Valve clearance in the valve guide
Intake valve 0.017-0.064
Exhaust valve 0.017-0.064
Intake valve clearance (at 20°C ± 5°C) 0.11-0.18
Exhaust valve clearance (at 20°C ± 5°C) 0.27-0.34


Cylinder Head
Description
Maximum distortion (mating surface) 0.1 mm
Height of mating surface 1.76 mm - 2.12 mm
Peak-to-valley height of mating surface (reference length 2.5 mm vertical to groove direction) R 3z = 6.0 m
Oil pressure at 800 - 850 rpm 1.3 bar - 2.5 bar
Oil pressure at 4000 rpm 3.7 bar - 5.5 bar


Torque Specifications
Description Nm lb-ft lb-in
Hose clamps 4 – 35
Intake manifold studs 5 – 44
Intake manifold bolts and nuts 18 13 –
EGR tube assembly to EGR valve 40 30 –
EGR pipe to ignition coil bracket 6 – 53
EGR tube assembly to catalyst 40 30 –
Heat shield to exhaust manifold 10 – 89
Exhaust manifold studs 5 – 44
Exhaust manifold nuts 16 12 –
Catalytic converter to exhaust manifold 48 35 –
Catalytic converter to exhaust 47 35 –
Right-hand driveshaft center bearing 25 18 –
Generator to bracket 25 18 –
Generator bracket to upper cylinder block bolts 25 18 –
Generator bracket to lower cylinder block bolts 65 48 –
Transmission flange bolts 47 35 –
Starter motor to transmission 35 26 –
Oil drain plug, MTX transmission 45 33 –
Oil control plug, MTX transmission 45 33 –
Flywheel bolts 112 83 –
Clutch pressure plate 29 21 –
Engine roll restrictor to transmission 48 35 –
Engine roll restrictor to subframe 48 35 –
Engine rear mount to body 48 35 –
Engine rear mount (nut on transmission mounting bracket) 133 98 –
Engine front mount to engine 80 59 –
Engine front mount to body 48 35 –
Power steering pump to bracket 24 18 –
Power steering pump bracket 48 35 –
Cylinder head bolts a) – –
Camshaft bearing cap bolts a – -
Cylinder head cover a) – -
Spark plugs 15 11 –
Timing belt tensioner 25 18 –
Camshaft timing belt pulleys 68 50 –
Upper timing belt cover 10 – 89
Ignition coil (EI) bracket to cylinder head 21 15 –
Thermostat housing 20 15 –
Fuel rail 10 – 89
Engine rear lifting eye 16 12 –
Engine rear lifting eye studs 6 – 53
Engine front lifting eye 47 35 –
Cylinder block – – –
Engine oil drain plug 25 18 –
Oil pressure switch 27 20 –
Cylinder block oil gallery blanking plugs 23 17 –
Heater pipe bracket to oil pan 10 – 89
Oil pan to lower crankcase a) – -
Lower crankcase to cylinder block 22 16 –
Oil pump 11 8 –
Oil intake pipe to oil pump 10 – 89
Main bearing bolts a) - –
Connecting rod bearing cap bolts a) - –
Coolant pump 18 13 –
Crankshaft rear oil seal carrier 20 15 –
Drive belt idler pulley 40 30 –
Crankcase ventilation pipe bracket 23 17 –
Crankcase ventilation 10 – 89
Coolant pump pulley 24 18 –
Crankshaft belt pulley 115 85 –
Crankshaft position sensor bracket 21 15 –
Crankshaft position sensor to bracket 8 – 71
Idler pulley 23 17 –
Knock sensor 20 15 –

 

ok, nothing tells me about my SVT cylinder head OEM bolt torque..
I got the same useless data from my Mitchell software about all ZETEC-E, G, X, U-name it, but no SVT Data.

So, going back to my question, what is the proper cylinder OEM head bolt torque spec?

 

Lol sorry didnt realize it was blank hahaha 50Nm single sequence

 

36 ft lbs only? one guy claims he found the secret; 15 ft lbs sequence, 35 ft lbs sequence and lastly, 90 degrees.
I need rock solid data or i'm not driving my SVT..

 

No that doesn't sound right. Here is the exact info from the ford technician...


Tighten all bolts in a single sequence
Note: Always install new cylinder head bolts. 50 Nm
Back the bolts off 1/2 turn.
Tighten the bolts in sequence shown to 50 Nm
see note
Note: Rotate all the bolts in a single sequence an additional 180 degrees in two steps of 90 degrees each.


Hope that helps.


Anthony

 

hmm, double 90 degrees on these thin bolts? i dunno.. did u or anyone u know actually used this sequence without snapping those black straws?

 

No, I'm sure that the people on focal have because that's where the information came from. I personally have not though. Check over there on there forums, a lot of good information that sometimes isn't on ours.


Anthony

 

i checked FocalJet, FocusFanatics, Various SVT forums and all i get is random, ice cream soft facts about doing a head job on a Focus SVT!

Its like no one ever did a damn head job on this car or i dont know anymore, i'm just pissed off because i can find everything else, besides that on all those forums!

Now its Friday and the dealer is closed till monday, not even sure if anyone of those ford people will spill the proper beans about this 'mystery'.

 

OK! I did a deeper search into Mitchell software and it turns out that Ford uses VIN 5 (SVT) as Duratec-ST. Here are the proper and actual torque specs and sequence using OEM TTY head bolts, NOT ARP bolts.

I'm sure everyone has seen these all over the forums, but for those that have regular Zetec engine, NOT SVT, please dont confuse these. These are ONLY for Focus SVT (Duratec-ST) as per 'Ford'.

 

OK! I did a deeper search into Mitchell software and it turns out that Ford uses VIN 5 (SVT) as Duratec-ST. Here are the proper and actual torque specs and sequence using OEM TTY head bolts, NOT ARP bolts.


I'm sure everyone has seen these all over the forums, but for those that have regular Zetec engine, NOT SVT, please dont confuse these. These are ONLY for Focus SVT (Duratec-ST) as per 'Ford'.

SVT is a Zetec with variable cam timing, not a duratec like the ST

 

save yourself the trouble and get ARP head studs. theyre stronger, and you can re-use them if for some odd chance say you have to pull the head off again. theyre not that expensive either. just my 2 cents

 

Next time, this time i used oem bolts because i have to check the car if everything else is good before i push it towards turbo project. I paid $1,900 for it and dont even know if it drives straight or all gears stay in place.

Of course, one must be a fool not to get ARP bolts for top & bottom end when installing a descent turbo kit.

 

Ok, so i torqued the head bolts by the specs and i used 2 5mm allen keys to align the cams and a M10 full thread rod, marked at 2.5".
So yes, you can align the timing cams without those special tools and so far, the Orange runs very strong.

But i did order the ARP timing tools for future, i dont want to be doing someones timing with my homemade tools

 

man with as much trouble the SVT timing is you sure are taking a chance bro....good luck

 

Life is about taking chances and i dont see for any reason for the ECU not to compensate for 1-2 degrees off on the cams. If it was off by more than 5 degrees, i'm sure i'd get a message from the ECU.

If anyone who gets those P1381 & P1383 codes, they should recheck Timing and invest in new VCT solenoid and a cam positioning sensor.

 

This is how i did my timing:

Timing belt on and tensioned. Both cam sprockets loose.
Lock the crank at TDC.
Align both cams and lock them.[]

First step:
Hold the Intake cam with a wrench in place, tighten the sprocket by hand to 30 Ft Lbs of torque. Remove cam locking tool, using the wrench on the intake cam, rotate it towards the windshield slowly and gently no more than 1/4 turn until it hits a DEAD STOP. All oil within the gear should come out. Dont move the cam! If you didnt feel a dead stop, repeat above step.

Second step:
Now loosen the intake cam sprocket bolt and align the cam with the exhaust cam. Lock them and tighten sprockets. Intake to 80 and Exhaust to 55 Ft Lbs.

Now remove timing pin and plate (timing locking tools) and rotate engine by hand 4 crank revolutions, cams will make 2 and check if cams are aligned. If not, redo the first step above. Thats it, no codes, no power loss, runs like new.

 

This thread is about Engine Timing/Rebuild. Not about comparing Zetec to SVT.
And NO, SVT is NOT a Zetec, SVT is based on Zetec, so lets not confuse those two because if SVT was a Zetec, then we wouldn't have an SVT section in this forum or any other forum for that matter.

I did my research and found proper info about head gasket replecement. I did it and it works and thats about it. I shared my info with those who need it and if anyone has any specific trouble info about their rebuilt, PM me.

 

To the Duratec answer, in Europe the SVT or ST170 and 1st Gen RS (Also a Zetec Engine) was actually labeled a "Duratec".

Confusing yes, but that's how they labeled it.

So, yes the "Duratec" Label for the Vin5 engines is actually correct.

In the US, they changed the engine and labeled it Duratec. Shame on the people who did all of this naming back and forth.

Anyways, It's good to hear that you got your engine back together s0B0Ta. I have done my head as well when I bent my valves last year. But I didn't see this thread before.

As for your comment about being slightly off on the cams, since the SVT Focus is a interference engine, you should be careful when doing their timing. Can't really say that it's okay if the cams are off. Plus the VCT is a temperamental little guy. Sometimes, it just doesn't want to time correctly.

But again, glad to hear it worked out for you.

Ray

 

Thanks Ray, many keep jumping into conclusions without digging in a little deeper.
So far, i did 3 SVTs and VCT is fine, no codes in, no codes out.

IMO, if people drive on regular oil, idle a lot and drive an SVT below 5k, then the VCT will eventually go on vacation; either from oil gunk build up or out of no usage.

My SVT get its share of 6-7k daily on Toms tune and it loves it. Plus, i always use full synthetic oil in the engine and Ford ATF in the trans.
Yes, Ford showed me a piece of paper with revised oils and SVT get ATF in the transmission and it works great.

 

That is what the Ford Manual says. Many of the older SVT owners knew this as well. And back in 04-05, we were all a bit shocked by the ATF in the trans. But if Ford says it, then Ford says it.

Eh, I don't push my SVT that much. I usually hang around 3-4K revs around town.

But I do push it at AutoX. So there's my fun times.

Ray

 

Ray, when it came to change the oil in my trans last year, i've spent hours searching for proper oil on this and other forums and guess what, all i got was arguments that this is better than that. So i decided to go to Ford and see what they have to say and ATF was it. 2 bottles and i was done.

As for my SVT and 6-7k daily, i just love the sound it makes from 2nd to 3rd and 4th when i get on the highway with my gutted cat pipe and open filter and pass all those new yorkers and jersyers on my way to home depot