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Suspension control arm DIY

36K views 54 replies 26 participants last post by  PratoN  
#1 ·
Hello everyone!

I've mentioned a few months ago that my Focus SE '12 started to "clak" when going over bumps and that after a little check underneath, I've discovered that the lower control arm bushings were almost done.



Now though, many of you might noticed that this specific part cannot be changed so the whole control arm + ball joint has to be purchased. I've changed mines and here is the DIY:

Tools needed:
Torx T-55
18mm socket
21mm socket
18mm wrench
15mm socket
10mm socket
15mm wrench
1 swivel socket

Procedure:
1-Get the whole front of your can in the air and remove the tires.
2-Loose the suspension lower control front arm bushing bolt using the 18mm socket (passenger side requires to remove the lower metal cover for the A/C compresor *all bolts use a 10mm socket * so you can use the swivel socket + 18mm socket to take this bolt entirely).

3-Loose the suspension lower control rear arm bushing under bolts using the 18mm socket and the 21mm socket for the upper nuts.

4-Remove the lower bolt on the sway bar links using a 15mm wrench and 15mm socket for the nut in it.

5-Remove the ball joint bolt and nut using the torx T-55 + 15mm socket.

6-Finish removing all bolts from the control arm bushings (front & rear).

7-Remove the whole control arm from both sides.


Installation procedure is exactly the same going backwards.

**Don't forget to take the car into tire alignment after this is done because its original measurements might have changed a bit so in order to ensure a proper tire contact with the road, alignment is required!**



Hope this helps someone! [popcorn]

Bit of help is always useful though...
 
#5 ·
With just raising the car and doing a visual inspection you will see the status of them.. any rip's withing the rubber will mean that the bushing is up to be changed.

When you take the control arms apart from the car, you will notice the huge difference in movement on the bushing while on the new ones it's almost impossible to move with your bare hands.

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#6 ·
+Rep

I quickly checked mine this weekend and they look like they're in pretty bad shape. At least 1 of them is torn, but I bet both are. I didn't feel like lying under my car at 0*F to keep looking. Guess I have another project this spring! [wrenchin]

I guess this is why my car is tramlining like crazy on the highway?
 
#7 ·
Likely yes! In my car, the driver side was much worse than the passenger side but still it's always better to change them both.

PS: I've used Mevotech's which are supposed to be better than the OEM's with almost the same price.

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#8 ·
Great writeup!!
 
#10 ·
The car feels like new again, it doesn't clank anymore while goif over bumps and because of the wheel alignment, it doesn't go everywhere on the highway anymore. I can definitely feel the difference!

I've changed these components right after 55k kms wich is pretty normal because of the crappy roads we have here in Costa Rica.

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#13 ·
I had a squeak when going over a speed bump... I thought it was the grease on the strut again so I did the TSB at home with no luck. I went at the dealer this morning after a Ford rep has convince me to go... Dealer want 1200$ to change both control arm and the passenger top plate. The car has been in more then 4-5 times for suspension problem and the only solution Ford was offering was to grease the strut. Hopefully, my dealer's goodwill request at Ford will be successful. Car only has 35k miles.
 
#14 ·
I talked about this with steve from tousley ford, he mentioned the car is too new to require bushings. Mine are completely shot at 59k miles. Have you guys seen a bushing kit for sale yet?
 
#18 ·
Can they be purchased at the dealer alone or they come only with a new control arm?
 
#19 ·
Hmm maybe that's the noise in getting, I've looked over everything a few times and can't seem to find what I'm hearing, thought it was my braided airline rubbing but after making sure it was properly ran a few times that's not the culprit.
It only really happens when I reverse really slowly and come to a stop. It's weird.
 
#25 ·
Now experiencing what I believe is this same issue.

When I come to a stop, as I accelerate off, I get a single CLACK from the driver's front area. I'll check this bushing for damage. :(
 
#27 ·
Just ordered 2 new control arms to be replaced this weekend. With the mk3 still being somewhat of a newer car did the ball joint end come out pretty easily or was there a lot of prying/hammering involved in getting the old ball joint out. I have a '12 with just shy of 90k.
 
#28 ·
With the mk3 still being somewhat of a newer car did the ball joint end come out pretty easily or was there a lot of prying/hammering involved in getting the old ball joint out.
I had a hell of a time getting mine out the first time I removed my ball joint - but rust wasn't the problem... Once you get it loose, the trick to fully remove the LCA is to remove the outer tie rod end (or turn the steering wheel, I suppose) so that the front of the knuckle is turned inward. I found it was MUCH easier for the ball joint to slide out with the knuckle in that position.

You'll thank me later. Happy wrenchin'! [wrenchin]
 
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#34 ·
I have a clunk coming from the RH passenger side suspension... Is it me or is one of the connections on the bushing torn??
Image
Image


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Looks fine to me...

Previous Focus (IDK if they fixed it for MY2015) had also the dreaded strut squeaking/clunking and the TSB fix was to grease the strut.
 
#38 ·
Noise gone is likely the major effect, loose enough for that joint to clunk still isn't enough to affect handling.

IMO it feels better because you aren't cringing at noises.
 
#39 ·
Lol most likely! Would recommend most to switch over to Moogs end links. The factory ones suck. 10k miles and i needed a new link. Will probably order a pair to keep handy knowing how much the OEM suck.

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#44 ·
Hello pig4bill,

I recommend you bring your vehicle to your local Ford Dealer and get it diagnosed first. Then, speak with the service manager, as he is in the best position to ensure a proper diagnosis, and will be able to provide available options and/or coverage for any work needed.

Also, remember repairs done at a Ford Dealer come with a 24 months/unlimited miles warranty. You can schedule an appointment online here. Let me know the outcome.

Deysha
 
#42 ·
Warranty on those items ended at 3 yrs/36,000 miles.

IDK the date in service for the car, but as a 2012 version it looks long out of warranty by both miles and years for that type repair.

You would likely have warranty remaining for other items under 5/60 power train, the longer emissions warranty on specific items, a couple extended warranties on specific transmission items if that applies.

Time is running out if not expired on anything but emissions and extended warranties Ford decided to offer.