my car made aome terrible noises similar to what you say, it was a spun belt idler. Might be a good time to replace your serpentine belt, pulleys and what not.

Mine sounded so bad I thought I blew my engine.

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thanks!

I thought about some stuff like that, but I just had it at the Ford dealer for their safety inspection + oil change and supposedly they checked the belts. But you get the idea, yeah...sounds like the engine is going to blow! haha

 

Belt or tensioner, but it'd be doing it all the time thou, not go away.

 

IDK if its same parts for 2.0 but it was like $30 IIRC on rockauto for everything, did it a few years ago, I need to do it again she getting noisy on that side again.

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IDK if its same parts for 2.0 but it was like $30 IIRC on rockauto for everything, did it a few years ago, I need to do it again she getting noisy on that side again.

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again??? I'd use motorcraft parts.

 

thanks everyone for the responses!

 

OP is describing classic pass side engine mount problems, it gets quiet once the mount warms up.

I for one am the first person to go for cheaper parts but if that part is the issue then going cheaper is a mistake as Ford seems to be the only entity that can properly make those mounts to last regardless of the cost.

Hydraulic mounts require very precise machine and assembly work, or at least better than China seems to do and why all the OTC parts so suck in quality. They just can't do it. The parts either rupture quick to leak or rattle right out of the box or break in a month to send big parts down into your belt run and that in a freak situation could cost you thousands. The last two I bought I actually gutted with a knife as soon as they were mounted to let the hydro fluid leak out they rattled so bad, they got BETTER when I did it. Yeah, explain that one to me.

 

thank you AMC. this is what I thought. after I first got the car the valve cover cracked and blew the gasket. I drove for a while and in this condition, of course, the engine was shaking and the Ford dealer said he was worried about the engine mount being damaged from the engine surging and shaking. I am afraid this was a very poorly made car.

 

dont know how you guys have problems. I ate my first two up in no time

BUT,

according to my maintenace log, I installed "Anchor" $11 passenger side mount at 73k miles, about two years ago. the mount is still in perfect shape, 132k miles. Now the tranny dog bone, i eat those up every year, finally dropped dough on poly for that one.

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dont know how you guys have problems. I ate my first two up in no time

BUT,

according to my maintenace log, I installed "Anchor" $11 passenger side mount at 73k miles, about two years ago. the mount is still in perfect shape, 132k miles. Now the tranny dog bone, i eat those up every year, finally dropped dough on poly for that one.

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Your lucky so far w/ that Anchor psm....

 

X2, I had more than one Anchor come apart in less than 6 months or shake the second they were installed. Now, I have Anchor upper trans ones that have been there for a good while, they seem to be OK other than a bit more shake there. That pass side one though............nope. Ain't no way. You can commonly pry the impact plate out of them with a screwdriver, the pressfit there being utterly abysmal. A Ford one you will break the aluminum outer casting way before that plate comes out and why Motorcraft lasts.

That mount works by beating an inner piston in effect against an impact plate with the silicone fluid in there as a damper. Why the cheap Chinese ones come apart so fast. The piston beats the impact plate loose which then knocks the bladder ring out and the plate follows shortly. Right into the serp belt run.

Out of 50,000 parts made one guy will be the lucky S-O-B there, it's in the numbers.

 

HI everyone and thank you for helping me. I really appreciate it.

So back to the local Ford dealer today, they said when they changed my oil they checked my engine mounts and they seemed to be ok. I know it's hard to diagnose something from what someone is typing, so try this. This video is what I am hearing almost exactly :

I have no problems driving the car, no stall or vibration or lack of power. It gets 34 mpg and the oil is totally clean and clear. This video is almost dead on, passenger side of the engine same noise. I could be shooting this video myself.....

 

I'd pull the t/b cover & have look(t/b & tensioner) run the motor to see. How is the accessories belt & tensioner?

 

Either belt run or still the mount, the mount can be messed up internally and look fine outside it. Do the slight engine unload thing, jack up under engine using a board to spread out load then lightly just barely lift under oil pan to unload much of the engine weight off the mount and if the noise goes away or changes bigtime while jacked it's the mount.

 

A quick update on my situation. I put in a bottle of STP oil additive and also a can of Lucas oil engine cleaner. This has really helped with the ticking and rattling noise. Not sure what to make of that exactly except maybe I had very dirty injectors/valves/combustion chambers...

 

Umm - what KIND of cleaner?

Many require SHORT use followed by full oil change....

 

it was a full fuel system/combustion chamber/lifter type of cleaner. I have forgotten te brand cost about $15 in a big jug. I drove it today not much rattle anymore. I just had the oil changed at my Ford dealer however I might look into now a pro FI cleaning.

Seafoam!! that was the name

https://www.walmart.com/ip/16664932...&wl8=&wl9=pla_multichannel&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=16664932&wl13=&veh=sem

 

When added to oil such cleaners require an oil change afterwards, that's why I asked.

 

gotcha thanks!

 

Uh, OP is DREAMING if he thinks cleaner is going to fix that noise issue. At least some of it appears to be external and if not then he has serious internal issues. The noise may have dropped but the issue making it has NOT GONE AWAY.

AND fuel system cleaners do NOTHING for internal engine parts like lifters, the same way oil cleaning products do NOT cover combustion chamber or injectors.

OP is 100% LOST. Seafoam = garbage. And Seafoam and STP if both in the oil WILL war to the death with each other. The one product cuts the other ones' working to zero.

Oil additives to cover external noise = PFFFTT for brains........................but OF COURSE THEY WORKED, you'll never get any other answer!

 

I didn't hear anything rythmic or internal in the sound clip, checking for external noise would be the next step.

Still unsure what was used where, just started with worry about cleaner left in oil.

 

yea that was my thinking. there is not rythmic or constant in the noise. it's variable.

 

ok well, sorry if I offended you. I will take care of it myself. thanks.

 

Don't mind the yelling, amc's been on a crusade against many things and the snake oil sold over the counter is one of them.

Only certain products used when actually needed do any good.

He's one of our best for good advice if you can take the lectures about the World and it's foibles. Selling people on using crap is a BIG one he tried to resist working a parts counter.

 

Hahahaha I laughed so hard at this... It's true though.

Have you confirmed it is coming from the serpentine belt? Take the belt off, let it get cold and start it, just don't run it for more then a minute or two. If you don't hear the noise, turn pulleys until you find it. If you still hear it, continue reading.

Does the 2010 zetec have variable cam timing? When a car with VCT is shut off the gear is held in place by a pin until oil pressure reaches it. The VCT gear is the last thing to get oil pressure. If this pin is broke or not working, then you get a noise like you are hearing for 10-15 seconds(until oil reaches it) and doesn't happen again until cold. Car will run completly normal, just make that noise on startup.

So it is possible that your oil additive made the noise a little quieter if this is the issue

 

X2, no insult intended there and none taken bucko.

So-called 'maintenance' chemicals are pretty much about maintaining corporate profits and draining your wallet while doing so.

I just now went back over posts and realized the sound/vid clip is NOT your car, you have a '10 and that clip is a zetec, or impossible combination. Therefore, I retract what I said about the noise, it can't be your car there.

My bad there................

 

thanks sailor. I understand what he means a bottle of gunk isn't going to fix anything just cover it up but that's what I was trying to do I was sick of hearing that noise. anyway, as back at the Ford dealer today I had them listen they said it sounds like the tensioner pulley. I tend to agree so I guess I will have o replace that.

 

no problem AMC and thanks for he help. so can you tell me how much it will cost to replace the tensioner ulley?