Did you get rid of ALL the old fuel?
Good video by Brian at BSG Automotive about Ford P046X series codes:

Paul

 

Since it ran fine, I burned up most of the fuel just driving a a couple hundred miles. I also filled it up with Chevron and added a bottle of Techron with the last fill up. After changing the fuel pump and sending unit. It was fine for a day or so, but could it have coated the sending unit so fast? Given it was a brand new Fuel Pump. I still have the old fuel pump, and I was about to run a resistance test on the sending unit to see if it was operating. I bench tested the fuel pump after I removed it and it was working except one of the plastic tubes was broken from age.

 

I finally managed to complete all the I/M Readiness (SMOG), but now I can't pass because of the damn CEL. If I reset the codes, I reset the Readiness checklist. The fuel gauge will read correctly for about 15 mins then the CEL will pop up and the needle will go to E. If I can just trick it in to not trip the CEL and let me pass SMOG, I can fix it later. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the fuel gauge or sending unit?

 

I doubt there is a way to "trick it" so your goal needs to be-> fix it.
Yes, I have 2004 wiring info, which is also 99% accurate for your 2003.
I am too tired to dig into this now. I might stop by here again 18 hours from now.
I will guess the codes are generated by the FPDM (??) however the FPDM is likely not the problem.
Fuel level is a unique circuit that exists between the analog fuel level arm (potentiometer) in the tank VERSES the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster has digital I/O to the PCM so I assume it is possible the instrument cluster could ask the PCM to post a CODE about fuel level circuit errors. I have not looked-up your codes NOR do I remember those code numbers.
The FPDM is very easy to access under the back seat, so you can try a new one from a junk yard car. HOWEVER because the fuel level needle jumps to Empty, that sounds like a problem with the level arm/sender inside the tank, or car wiring to/from the cluster, or the instrument cluster itself. The FPDM does not directly control or monitor fuel level indication; aka "the gas tank needle".

 

Do you have a wiring schematic of what I'm looking for? I just wish the fuel pump was more acessible. It was pain to drop the tank to replace the pump assembly. I'll give it a shot and get back to you.

 

I will attach a picture later tonight that shows this unique circuit, but it does not show the entire system. BTW there are some people who have "cut an access hole" for fuel pump access & cut into the backseat floor sheet metal, in order to access the fuel pump. This "cut-out" is done so you do not have to drop the tank. Please look at the "stickies" at the top of this Gen Tech forum area.

BTW - I am one of the people who has done this fuel pump cut-out. If you see my notes, these notes apply to you, to your 2003 2.3.

 

Here is that picture, of that portion of the wiring diagram.

 

 

It seems to be the Cluster that is bad. We checked continuity on the the wire from the cluster to the fuel tank and it was good. The problem seem to be eliminating from the fuel gauge. Now I have to look for a replacement cluster.

 

Do not forget that the symptom is somewhat intermittent, and IF the fault is within the wiring, it may be "tricky to find it" or to isolate it. A simple continuity test could ACCIDENTLY PASS if not performed with great care and via 2 or 3 steps or techniques. You said "the wire" while I hoped that you would have said "we tested BOTH wires and confirmed there are no-shorts to one another NOR opens or high resistance NOR shorts-to-ground on either wire". The devil is in the details and the techniques used while testing those two wires. Also, any connectors within the circuit should be disconnected, inspected, and cleaned with Contact Cleaner, to help ensure a solid & healthy wiring circuit.

Yes, the fault could be emanating (not eliminating) from the cluster. Pls remember (read again?) the comments I made about cluster circuit board cleaning. Good luck CodeeBee.

 

Test both wires for continuity.

 

Update: I finally got my gas gauge resolved. It was one of the sending wires to from the fuel tank sending unit. Now my current problem is the EVAP in order to complete the I/M Readiness or SMOG requirements. I've driven it about 200+ miles since resetting the ECU codes after fixing the P0460 and P0463 codes. It still won't complete the last requirement. Is there something I can do to speed it up to complete?

 

It can take up to a week plus to pass evap. And you need to let car completely cool down 8 hrs. before the test resets to run again.

 

I just drove it today, it had sat for a couple of days. I check I/M Readiness with my OBDII scanner everytime I drive it. I drove about 20 miles, about 10 miles on the freeway. The car is not at my home, it's at my cousin's house. They drive it about 10 miles a day, local street driving about every other day. I try to drive it for some errands around town. The tank currently has less than 3/4 to 1/2 full.

 

After my last drive trying the SMOG drive cycle, I got a Fuel Cap light on the dash. So I replaced the gas Cap, but then it threw a P0455 code, Excessive EVAP leak. I smoke tested the EVAP to find the leak coming from the top of the tank. God I wish these things had an access panel under the seat. So I dropped the tank and found the Fuel Pump/Sending unit O-Ring seal was leaking. I got a OE Motorcraft, which is the only one sold. After retesting to make sure no other EVAP leaks, I was finally able to run the Drive Cycle and it cleared within 30 miles after the reset. I finally go it registered the same day it passed SMOG. I'm glad to finally get this monkey off my back, now I need to work on other maintenance issues. I hope this thread helps someone else with these DTC codes.

 

I love how you persevered. Good job.