I was wondering the same thing when I upgraded my door speakers and was wanting to run new speaker wire. But instead I just swapped out door speakers and tied into the wires behind the radio mostly because I didn't see any other way of getting through that connector your talking about.

 

any other info about the door jamb connectors found on all '00-07 Focus?? Surely somebody figured these things out.

 

hard to believe nobody knows how to add pins to the door jamb connectors. Does everyone just bypass them by drilling holes in the jamb and using old school conduit hose?[werd]

 

OK, it appears there are two options for upgrading your Focus S car's sparcely populated amp connectors to the doors to support power mirrors, power locks and/or power windows.

One option is to extract the white plastic clip in the center of the connector and add pins to it taken from a donor car. This looks very feasible and the connector looks quite modular for easy disassembly...but you basically have to have the connector in your hand to perform this level of surgery.

The more straightforward solution would be to replace the whole darn connector assembly. It pops in and out of the mounting hole with integral plastic restraint clips that look quite durable. I'm gonna try this option because it has little or no drawbacks. Folks with strippo S models should probably take this approach because the stock connectors only have 2 wires on them for hte door speaker. It's real easy to splice two speaker wires when you're going to wind up splicing a couple dozen more for power accessories..

At this juncture, I'm unclear how to access and install or remove these connectors from the A pillar. Further investigation should provide insight since some guy in the salvage yard figured it out lol. I can only pray that the dash is not in the way.

I can also report that these amp connectors are part of the main body harness, not the dash harness. While the connectors are sefinitely made by amp corporation and have a part# on them, bing and google searches offer no hits. Apparently the design is proprietary and not supported unless you're willing to buy a $1K body harness from ford lol. I got my two connectors from a salvage yard with foot long pigtails of wire attached for $30/pr.

Since I own an '07 car, I'd like to report some findings that likely apply to '05-'07 cars....

The GEM module on my S model car is not wired for power locks and this involves at least a half dozen wires on multiple connectors. This means that swapping to a GEM module from a loaded SE or SES that supports door power accessories is only part of the solution. GEM module connector pins for the locks are missing too. Basically ALL power lock system wiring is missing from the dash & GEM harness. As I dig deeper into this project, I am frankly regretting the plunge. I may wind up installing an aftermarket power lock solution to avoid the GEM issues and proceed with factory power window upgrade since the GEM module isn't involved. The power mirror upgrade doesn't look too difficult, but it involves quite a bit of wiring if you add the heater feature and expect them to be adjustable with the ignition off. The factory setup has battery drain protection via relay interlock and other nifty features that add complexity.

 

Have you thought about trying to drill a hole through the connector since you don't have all the power locks and stuff? My 07 has power everything and the connector your talking about is loaded with wires . I had the drilling idea when I was upgrading my door speakers and trying to use the same conduit but it was a no go.

 

Yea, I did think about drilling a hole thru the connector. Assuming you have the correct drill bit and don't have to buy one, it would be cheaper than buying fully loaded connectors from an optioned-out donor car. But drilling it is a one way street for sure. Basically you can turn the connector assembly into a gutted conduit and retain the twist on feature to keep it water tight. However that really doesn't address the biggest issue I have not yet conquered which is getting access to the male connector that's buried in the door jamb A-pillar. You can't drill out the connector without removing it, unless you remove the friggin car fender or pull the dash. What it comes down to is....if you can get the connector out of the door jamb and into your hand, you can either:

1) add pins or
2) replace it with a loaded assembly from a donor car or
3) gut it with a core drill bit or
4) remove the white center section of the connectors, remove all pins and try to squeeze wires thru that little restraint clip hole


I'm still preferring the less destructive and invasive OEM-ish method which is option 2.

 

OK, update! Good news....

I just learned the AMP wiring connectors on the A-Pillars to the doors are easy enough to access and remove. On the drivers side, my strippo S car has only three pins installed and used in the black factory connector while a sister car with power options will have about 24 used. My right door connector has 2 pins used where the donor car had about 20. The pins in my Focus S are used to feed speakers.

note: Two door cars only use one black connector to each front door while 4 dr cars use two on the left front door. On the 4dr cars the extra connector is gray instead of black and it feeds rear power window switch wiring to the rear doors.

Connectors buried in the A-pillars install and remove with a simple twist. Again, they are part of the main body harness, not the dash harness.

The connectors are accessed by pulling two plastic lock pins out of the sound insulation that is under the floor carpeting and wraps up the
A-pillar. The frame of hte A pillar has a hole inside allowing easy access. I haven't tried dealing with the passenger side yet, but I can see you have to detach a couple computers to get at the insulation and connector.

Therefore the mystery of updating to full OEM-style control cabling to the Focus doors is solved. However that doesn't consider the GEM module and a number of other wiring issues limited to the interior of the car. However these can be tackled if you're determined enough.

In my opinion, upgrading to OEM power windows and mirrors is somewhat feasible because they don't get into the GEM module wiring. Still it's a lot of work and quite costly. However the OEM Power locks are tightly integrated with antitheft and GEM, so it's FAR easier to just adapt aftermarket remote control and locks. The loaded power accessory connectors I'm adding to the doors and A-pillars will have plenty of power lock wire positions available to support an aftermarket power lock and remote control system. I believe my new drivers door connector has about 24 wires and pins now where it had 3. The right passenger door connector now has about 20 wires where it had two. Back to wiring lol.

 

I'm preparing to wire the body of my '07 ZX3 strippo (2dr) to feed the door wiring harnesses to add power accessories:

Here's what I determined so far:

1) The OEM factory power windows are going to take about 6 wires to feed positive power, ground and pass up/down (reversing) signals from the drivers door master window switch to the passenger door window motor circuit. As a side note, I think conversion of a 4dr car would be more trouble than it's worth.

2) The factory heated power mirrors are going to take about 5 wires. These wires basically feed positive power to the drivers door mirror switch and pass up/down and left/right signals to the passenger door. Ground to the mirror ckt is shared between all power accessories in the door harness (see 1 above).

3) the door lock circuitry is a total friggin cluster nightmare. It involves adding many circuits to the GEM module that are integrated with the antitheft system, but they are not wired in my Focus S and specialized plugs and pins are missing. The GEM module would need changed and lots of wiring for interlocks and sensing circuits. Therefore I'm avoiding these hassles and going the aftermarket route for power locks and remote control.

 

I'm looking at adding Power windows, locks and mirrors to my '05 Focus ZX4 and I have a 2001 donor car for parts. My plan was to take wiring harnesses and parts from the donor. From your experience do you think it's possible by just using all the harnesses from the donor? Do you think the wiring will interchange? Or are there major differences between the two years? From what your saying, the locks may be a problem but do you think the rest will swap out?

Thanks

 

Well....your plan is not ideal. A large number of running changes were made between 2004 and 2005. The power windows, power mirrors and power lock systems ALL involve different wiring and different parts. The least number of changes were made in the power window system. However a running change was made somewhere in 2000 or 2001 where the master power window switch on 2dr cars was re-engineered, the legacy "one touch down relay" was integrated into the switch and associated switch and harness connectors were modified. The early wiring and mirrors have no heat circuits. Mirror heat was added in 2005, but it's obviously something you can live without.

There are similarities between designs, but the word "swap" does not apply by any stretch. If you really want to "swap", you need to find a 2005-2007 donor car and even then, you will need to splice your 2005 body harness and dash harness to accept power accessories. It would be WAY too difficult to swap those harnesses, in my opinion. If you are determined to retrofit 2000-2004 parts into a 2005-2007 car, you will need to compare wiring diagrams and do a lot of splicing of ALL harnesses and other stuff. Approx 15-20% of the wiring and hardware differs between 2001 and 2005. Even then, you will discover many hardware design changes such as 2001 vs 2005 door latches. I frankly don't know if those parts will physically bolt on and work properly.

A good electronic tech could tackle the job, but it would take many hours....it is hardly worth it. I suggest enjoying your econobox for it's strengths (efficiency) and forget about the missing gadgets. Maybe follow my lead; go onto ebay and order wiring diagrams for a 2005 and 2001 car. Sell them later. Both books can be bought for about $25. You will be depressed by the differences BUT... it may help you avoid a basket case lol.

If you want gadgets, I suggest buying a 750iL BMW V12 which has a book price of about $5K. The countless unreliable electronic gadgets (like 15 way power seats with power bolsters sporting separate nut/ball heat and hand job option) are precisely the reason they don't have any resale value. The owner of the 15 year old 750iL truly envies your cranks and missing buttons. I have a 540i and it's nearly as bad. Soon as the factory CPO warranty expires, they need to be junked to avoid bankrupsy or getting stranded.

 

OK, I have a bit more info to share. This project is going very slow because I'm up to my neck in other stuff.

I reviewed 2 door ZX3 power window wiring diagrams and concluded the circuitry in the car interior involves about four 14 AWG wires:

driver's door jamb pin 5, yellow/violet, 14 AWG -> goes to passenger door jamb pin 5, yellow/violet, 14 AWG. This is one of the two feed wires to the passenger window motor and up/down switch. when a switch is operated, the power is applied to the motor. When the switch is flopped in the other direction, the polarity on the motor reverses.

right and left door jamb pin 2, black, 14 AWG, each side wired to chassis ground (floor near A-pillar) via short pigtail and lug

driver's door jamb pin 9, green/blue, 14 AWG -> goes to passenger door jamb pin 9, green/white, 14 AWG. Also goes to central junction box power positive with key in run, fuse F2.55, 25Amp. This + power circuit essentially feeds the master switch in the drivers door and window switch in passenger door.

driver's door jamb pin 11, white/violet, 14 AWG -> goes to passenger door jamb pin 11, white/violet, 14 AWG. this is the other feed wire to the passenger window motor and up/down switch