Okay so my car seems to be sick... 87,000 miles on her. when I turn on the vent you can smell burning oil. Sitting in traffic for too long, you can smell it as well. No smoke from exhaust, no power loss, No oil on the ground but looks to be seeping from somewhere on the front of the engine. Coolant looks fine, oil level stays decent in-between changes. This has been a problem that has slowly gotten worse and I need some good ideas for a starting point. Some things I've considered were the Oil to Air separator and windage tray or maybe both... Calling on the community for this one! Any Ideas or anyone else experience something like this?
LEAK and SMELL???
FuriousFocus
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Okay so my car seems to be sick... 87,000 miles on her. when I turn on the vent you can smell burning oil. Sitting in traffic for too long, you can smell it as well. No smoke from exhaust, no power loss, No oil on the ground but looks to be seeping from somewhere on the front of the engine. Coolant looks fine, oil level stays decent in-between changes. This has been a problem that has slowly gotten worse and I need some good ideas for a starting point. Some things I've considered were the Oil to Air separator and windage tray or maybe both... Calling on the community for this one! Any Ideas or anyone else experience something like this?
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have you had your oil changed recently?
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Red, I change the oil often and there is visible leaking on the block, just not able to pin-point from where because it seems like its coming from at least one place and blowing around the front of the block. The whole lower part of the motor has a thin oil coating on it.
jetrinka, not sure, I do not see any leaks but maybe there is a spot that is slowly seeping down, will look into that for sure.
jetrinka, not sure, I do not see any leaks but maybe there is a spot that is slowly seeping down, will look into that for sure.
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i say maybe check for the front main if cleaning the oil off the block doesnt work?
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Since it's not dripping, I think the valve cover is a good assumption. Look on the back side of the valve cover near the intake manifold on your vehicle. You should also unplug the spark plugs and look in the hole to see if there is oil in one of the tubes. That's another sign of a valve cover gasket in need of change.
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Will do! hopefully its simple like a valve cover gasket. That would be awesome
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will update you guys when I find out
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The valve cover gasket has been done within the last 3 years but I re-tapped some of the bolt holes...long story...maybe some thread locker on those bad boys this time...
PCV valve was done but that was 5 years ago so maybe the PCV and the rubber hose is now shot and I just havn't noticed that one...will be looking at that as well.
All good ideas. I'm hoping it is something simple like this!
PCV valve was done but that was 5 years ago so maybe the PCV and the rubber hose is now shot and I just havn't noticed that one...will be looking at that as well.
All good ideas. I'm hoping it is something simple like this!
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Wouldn't be a bad idea to invest in a pile of pigmats and a number of cans of Brakleen; lay the mats and spray down your suspect area (on a cold car!!!!), and run it around a little to see if you have "new" oil slicks appearing around the engine bay...
Also a good way to check after you've replaced the suspected gremlin.
Also a good way to check after you've replaced the suspected gremlin.
Don't go around spraying Brakleen. It is a powerful solvent that damages plastic. Use engine degreaser.
By replacing the PCV valve, a check valve that costs $5-10. Clean/replace associated hoses as needed.
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xFOCIx - good call.
I've used this stuff called 'purple power' degreaser in the past. As odd as it sounds- it works awesome! (and is purple)
I've used this stuff called 'purple power' degreaser in the past. As odd as it sounds- it works awesome! (and is purple)
DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE BOLTS!!!! It will cause it to leak again! I forget the exact torque spec but I believe its about 6ft-lbs. Trust me I ruined my first replacement by using the man torque method and the gasket leaked again replaced it use specs and no leaks.
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That's a fact on every vehicle. Something like that would be a good excuse for me to get one of those digital torque wrenches since none of mine do in-lbs or lower than 10 ft-lbs except the old fashioned bar style. I assume the Zetec uses one of those molded rubber gaskets that you insert into a slot around the VC. On those I don't supplement with RTV like I did on older flat gaskets without grooves. I do still tighten it to what I call "wrist" tight which is about all the force you can put on a ratchet with just your wrist. It's less than 10 ft-lbs. The trick is not using your arm, and only using your wrist. Some of you bigger beefcake guys might want to test this out on an inconspicuous bolt somewhere to see what you end up. I had a mechanic buddy a long time ago who got me into testing what torque I could apply with X tool so in some cases, I wouldn't have to go locating a torque wrench.
A regular handled ratchet, for example, I can put about 20 ft-lbs on the first time, and if bear down on it a second time I might get it up to 30. I need to test my long handled flex head to see what I do with it- probably 35. The most I can put on anything with my stubby is 15, and that's nearing the pain threshold for my palm. For situations where it's hard to get a torque wrench in place, knowing this stuff is essential. For example, when I do my rear wheel hubs in the next few weekends- I'm hoping my flex head will get those bolts down to 35 ft-lbs without me having to reach for something else. If I end up with 37-40, it's not like it's going to hurt those parts. I don't do this on internal engine parts- of course.
I almost forgot, for those of you who are worried about damaging bolts by over-tightening: there are charts available for maximum torque by the size of the bolt. That's not to be confused with the size of the hex on the end of the bolt- for example- a typical 3/8" bolt will have a 9/16" head. This has nothing to do with mounting parts on an engine, it's just what the bolt is rated for. Those little ones like that can probably only handle a max of 15 ft-lbs. I can spin off typical and max torque settings for SAE grade 5 bolts, but not metric. I'm sure there's a chart out there for 8.8, 10.8, and 12.8.
Wow that post is full of excellent information.
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