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Discussion starter · #21 ·
those can be adjusted. Thats why i did not put the measurements for them yet. I needed to get you guys input on it. Im going to have 2 separate chambers for the subs and im aiming for 1.50-2 cu ft per chamber. here is the sub specs:
12" SE-X

Mounting Depth - 6.9 inch
Mounting Hole Diameter - 11.2 inch
Overall Diameter - 12.5 inch
Bolt Hole Circle - 11.75 inch
Motor Width - 7.3 inch
Motor Depth - 3.44 inch
Basket Depth - 3.46 inch
Displacement - 0.15 cu. ft.
Weight - 21.5 lbs.

12"

Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.49
Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 4.5
Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: 0.44
Free Air Resonance -Fs: 25.1 Hz
Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 72.9 liters
One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 18 mm
Efficiency -SPL 1W/1m: 86.1 dB SPL
Effective Piston Area -Sd: 480 cm^2
DC Resistance -Re: 2.8 ohm
Nominal Impedance -Znom: Dual 2 or 4 ohm
Thermal Power Handling -Pe: 600 W
Force Factor -Bl: 17.7
 
You could always use a "V" configuration with the port firing from where the V starts. I have heard that this set up gives insane response.
 
No CAD program here LOL.

I'll dig up something if I can.
 
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If you ever plan to meter or anything I would do a shared space and the port on the drivers side instead of in the middle. You plan on sealing it off from the trunk, correct? Or did I misread it? The way I have mine sealed off is I used a faceplate that fits directly in behind the back seats and has a opening where I can slide my box in/out and if I ever plan to redesign my box I can do so with just making the box the same height and width to slide into the faceplate. I can get some pics and/or measurements for it if you like? I have a '11 SE so the trunk area should be exactly the same as yours.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Here's a picture of it:
Image



I don't know if you can tell or not from the picture, but the box is square and slides up into the faceplate and screws into it from the trunk to prevent it from moving around.
Yeah i actually use yours to show my builder what i want lol. I was just thinking the slanted one would fit better as it is to the angle of our trunk opening and saves you about 4-5 inches of trunk space
 
so heres the proplem with your idea, the subs alone are gonna take up about 24" wide and i dont know how wide the opening is but i doubt its bigger then 30 inches so you might have a hard time fitting the subs and port in. a shared chamber is proven to be louder. you could use earo ports as they take up less space. if you use a slot port you need to make sure that there is 14-16" of port per sq foot of air space the box has. with earo ports you need about 9-12" per sq foot of box. you should go with closer to 4 cu ft after displacement, 2 per sub. you should do a double baffle and maybe even some bracing.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
so heres the proplem with your idea, the subs alone are gonna take up about 24" wide and i dont know how wide the opening is but i doubt its bigger then 30 inches so you might have a hard time fitting the subs and port in. a shared chamber is proven to be louder. you could use earo ports as they take up less space. if you use a slot port you need to make sure that there is 14-16" of port per sq foot of air space the box has. with earo ports you need about 9-12" per sq foot of box. you should go with closer to 4 cu ft after displacement, 2 per sub. you should do a double baffle and maybe even some bracing.
gotcha. So with the given idea would i be much better off with doing a single 12 in a box just like gazooks with a box volume of about 2.5 for the one sub? This would greatly help that single sub perform very well correct?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Just measured the opening and right in the middle its 35.5 inches wide. at the smallest point at the top after the angle it is 32 inches.
Gazooks faceplate comes out a good bit on both sides making the opening look much smaller than it is but if you can see the palstic on the left of the pic that is the actual size of the opening and the other side cannot be seen in his pic
 
you can do the 2 12s if its bigger then 30 inches wide, you need 24 " wide for the subs and then 3-4 " wide port and then from added thickness from the wood being at 1.5 you would barely be able to fit it in. if you decide to do just 1 12 then you only need 2 cu ft after displacement of the sub port and any other bracing. 4 cu fit if you use 2 12s
 
slanted would move it further foward and with it sealed off from the trunk might give you better sound and make it louder but then agian doing it like gazooks could make it louder, to many factors to say what would sound better. more of what look you like more.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
slanted would move it further foward and with it sealed off from the trunk might give you better sound and make it louder but then agian doing it like gazooks could make it louder, to many factors to say what would sound better. more of what look you like more.
i just got the jbl 1201.1 2 from a guy like 5 mins ago haha
If i use it to push two of the re sex 12's can you design me a box given my specs?
max specs:
37" wide
16" tall
bottom depth 19"

With the slant the bottom was 16" and the top was 10" to match the angle.
If i move the bottom depth to 19" that would give me some more airspace and top depth would need to be proportional to the first measurement.so around 12".
 
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