Focus Fanatics Forum banner

Im at a loss

1.6K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  jkirkerx  
#1 ·
Okay so I'm a pretty decent mechanic and am normally good at diagnosing problems, but I've tired everything I can think of to fix my issue to no avail.

2002 ford focus zx3 2.0 zetec.
Almost 190,000 miles.

Parts repaired/replace recently.
Idle air control valve
Plugs and wires.
Fuel filter.
Thermostat.
Water pump.
Pcv valve.
Pcv hose.
Air box deleted, short ram air installed.
Battery.
Alternator.
Dpfe sensor.

I'm forgetting like maybe one or two but I cant think of them rn, slot of work and parts in a short period of time, some just preventative maintenance and some to try and solve the problem.

Basically the car has the typical idle problem, when I crank it, sometimes it starts the first time, sometimes it takes a sec and a little gas pedal pressing. Once it starts it's almost always the same thing it revs up almost to 3500-4000 rpm, holds for a second or two then gradually falls until it gets to around 1200 rpm holds for a minute or two, no misfires runs fine then suddenly drops under 1000 rpm and either stalls out and dies or just runs really bad.
When driving it hesitates when accelerated and then catches almost like a power band in a dirt bike and goes like nothing was ever wrong, at hwy speeds it runs like a stop, no shudders, misfires, anything but when I come to a stop it dies 95 percent of the time, the only it doesnt is if I put it into neutral (idles perfectly fine).

Other info idk if its related.
*when any accessory load is placed on the engine it runs bad, but once turned off goes back to normal.
*have checked all the wires and connections/connectors that I can test. No issues.
*timing belt is in time and fine
* getting PO171 and PO135 trouble codes

Any suggestions or ideas or even just point me in the right direction?
 
#8 ·
Good call on the fuel pump!
But I know those early Zetec engines with so many years on them, the rubber gaskets like the intake manifold gasket, throttle body gasket, ICT valve gasket start to harden a bit and loose their seal. And the EGR hoses tend to get real hot and fail.

I just went through my Zetec again and replaced all the hoses and gaskets, big difference and improvement made. And it didn't cost much for the parts.
 
#7 ·
02 Focus 2.0 Auto with 242k, had everything done in 18yrs time. Throttle body is one issue that I agree with, but before that look at EGR Sensor throughly. Check hoses like said, then replace all rubber hoses, 15+ yrs of environment will induce problems eventually.

''when I crank it, sometimes it starts the first time, sometimes it takes a sec and a little gas pedal pressing. ''
Never do this, fuel pump has a 3 sec delay, be patience and wait the 3 sec, then crank.Stress on engine isn't good. If you don't get a fuel pump noise at on position (energized sound) check thru diagnostics.
 
#6 ·
You have a lot of work to do here to fix it. I'm not an expert, but have learned a lot over the last 4 years and I'm pretty good now, but not ASE good like AMC.

If I just bought the car with these issues, I would put the stock air box back on and attack the issues. Sounds like unmetered air, air that the MAF sensor didn't see is leaking into the intake system and causing the engine to run lean, so it can't maintain the stoichiometric value of 14.7 A/F ratio. You can hook up your scan tool and watch your Short and Long Fuel Trim values to confirm this. Trims in excess of 10 are a warning, 20 is very bad from what I read.

Check for holes or pressure lose in the hoses, replace them if they leak ....
  • Places to look are left of the MAF sensor into the throttle body.
  • The 2 vacuum hoses going into the DPFE sensor.
  • The 2 vacuum hoses coming out of the EGR solenoid.
  • The 1 vacuum hose coming out of the EVAP solenoid into the intake manifold.
  • The PCV hose in the back of the engine, goes from the EGR metal tube into the intake manifold. Check the front hose as well, the short elbow.
  • Check your IAC valve, did you lose the gasket?, is it flush mounted? Did you put a new gasket on?
Then you should clean the throttle body plate and throat to smooth out the idle. Put your cold air intake back on and take it from there.

IMO, I think the two O2 sensors should be replaced in pairs every 70K miles with the same exact brand. I think Motorcraft's are Bosch to match the injectors, but I used NGK this time and they work fine. I suspect that the upstream sensor is really a A/F ratio sensor and not really an O2 sensor, topic for another thread.
 
#5 ·
I have a 2005 zx5 with 215k miles and a 2010 mazda 5 with 120k miles. Different engines, but internals (parts) and layout are similar enough that I sometimes reference each other's problems to figure out "weird" stuff.

My mazda had exactly what you described at about 90k or so - even down to the fault codes - though, I think it was a little different, but still pointing at the oxygen sensor. I dutifully bought one and tried to replace to which I found the sensor thread to be completely frozen, and bought a couple of days trying to see what else the problem might be. Someone in mazda forum suggested looking at the throttle body. Sure enough, it was completely gummed up with black soot. Between the soot and the harsh chemicals used, I probably killed about 5 years of my life cleaning that crap out, but it really seemed like was the source of the problem. No hesitation at idle, no engine kills on stop. Fault code went away. Turns out a brand new throttle body is about $120 - might want to weigh that against 5 years of your life if this is the problem.

Now - I'll also say that I have disconnected the connected between the air box and throttle body on the zx5 for completely different reason. I've taken a look at the throttle body out of curiosity - and it was pretty clean. So I can't say that zx5 is even susceptible to the mazda problem.

But just sharing my findings. Good luck.