anything that dams up the bottom of the oil pan and reduces the drain opening is not an improvement in my books.

the threaded shank that stays in the oil pan once the valve is installed will prevent the last 1/8" of oil on the bottom of the pan to be drained and as you could imagine, that last 1/8" of undrained fluid is the dirtiest oil in the sump.

besides, how long does it take to actually remove the drain plug anyways? how lazy can we get?

rob

 

i hate to criticize this but why not just do it the old fashion way, the oil on these cars is probably one of the easiest setups possible. Have you tried changing the oil yet?

 

I appreciate the fact that you don't mind doing oil changes the traditional way. But if you can change the oil without any tools, why not? I will be changing the oil shortly, though - driving 70+ miles a day for my business racks up the mileage quickly.

I have seen the same issue where the inward most 1/8" of the threads can potentially block the oil from draining. To that end, on the previous Fumoto valves I've owned, I've also machined a small groove perpendicular to the inward three or so threads, thus allowing oil to pass by and fully drain. Those threads are not structural to the tightening of the valve to the oil pan. If you've not tried the Fumoto valve, it's built very solid, and requires two distinct motions (up and twist) to open. Additionally, one added benefit is the ability to drain the oil directly into a jug!

 

I installed one on my svtf after I did my first oil change. Nice and convenient, especially for getting samples of oil to send out for analysis.

 

I could see the point for analysis samples, and for storing oil in a jug to dispose of/recycle... what do you other guys do with the old oil, just FMI (for MY info)

Other than that though based on the placement of the Duratec filter I can hardly see the valve making life easier for oil changing. I've heard the Zetec is less conveniently placed, so probably similar story with the SVT, but it seems like a DTec oill change would take like 4 seconds to pull off the old filter, then drain oil and twist on the new? Maybe I'm missing the point of the valve.

But FocAL to answer yor question, looks like there's no Duratecs running with this valve as of now. I'd try emailing or calling Fumoto (or whatever the company is) to get a direct answer before you order.

 

Amanda - thanks for your input/thoughts. The Fumoto valve just allows an easier/cleaner way to drain the oil. I've looked under my car to see where the oil drain plug is. I think the Fumoto will fit, so I may try it. For anyone who's unthreaded a drain plug and found their forearm somehow covered with oil, this is a sure-fire way to eliminate it. Also, gone are the days of stripped threads.

I'll be sure to post pics when I get it done!

- Al

 

Hey Focal, I can see it being a little cleaner but your still going to spill oil on yourself or car when you remove your filter. But if thats the way you want to do it, I have no problem. Everybody has there own way of doing things and it all comes down to personal preference.

So you put 70+ miles on your car a day. How many miles do you put on usually between oil changes and what kind of oil do you use?

 

Blacksunshine,

I'll be doing 5K intervals, but my first OC will be at 2500 miles. Today's technology and quality of oils can easily handle that interval, with normal mixed highway/city driving without beating on the car. I don't plan on autocrossing or drag racing it. I had 2001 WRX that I ran with 5K OC's with zero problems (synth oil), and that's a car that can push the limits of motor oil!

I've recently picked up 30 quarts of Motorcraft 5W-20 Premium (Synth Blend) from Wal-Mart for $1.29 a quart! (hence the reason I bought 30 quarts). I pretty much cleaned them out of their clearance shelves. Apparently, Wally World will no longer be carrying Motorcraft maintenance items.

A great source of oil information is the BITOG (Bob is the Oil Guy) forums.

www.theoildrop.server101.com

Everything you ever wanted to know about oil is here!

- Al

 

Apparently, Wally World will no longer be carrying Motorcraft maintenance items.


It was explained to me that Ford was selling wally world oil cheaper than they were selling it to the dealers.. so the dealers were going to wally world and buying the oil and selling it for a profit. So Ford pulled Motorcraft oil from wally world... bummer deal.. I am pissed that I can't buy it at wally world for $1.48 a quart anymore. Now I have to go to the dealer and pay $2.99 a quart.

 

I'm not one that likes seeing old thread revival, but it seemed better than making an new one.

Anyone using one of these?

Seemed like a good idea since I'm on my third oil drain plug already.
(Stripped the head on one and somehow screwed up the threads on another.)

 

I found a similar product that's designed a bit differently. Don't know if anyone's using this one either.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-...=&vsrch_cat=&st_amount=&end_amount=&start=&vfrom=&prev=&vnext=&category_list=:0

 

Sorry but I wouldn't trust any of those fancy drain plug setups. You still have to change the filter......which involves a drain pan and somewhat of a mess with dirty hands.

I've been buying Motorcraft oil and filters at Walmart some years after this OP. I'm assuming they're continuing to sell the brand?

And an oil filter question.....the first Motorcraft filter I used, went on normally. On my second filter change, the thing leaked until I tightened it super-tight. I've changed thousands of filters in my life.....this one had to go on tighter than any of them. Normal...?

 

ive been buying motorcraft filter and oil from walmart for the past 4-5? oil changes now and no problems....and i like the idea of that quick drain but like he said im lacking some trust in it

 

The Duratec needs valve p/n F-107 with p/n ADP-107 adapter to clear the bump beside the drain plug.

There's plenty of room to use the valve with the nipple which makes it easier to drain directly into a jug.
I filter and burn my used oil in my diesels so this is a big advantage to me.

David

 

There's really no way of keeping the oil change clean on the D-Tec. Once you crack the oil filter your arm is going to be covered in oil. You will still need a pan.

 

I've never had my arm "covered" in oil while changing the filter.
It drips a little, but right into a drain pain.