I do not know.

If me, I would disconnect both car battery terminals, then hold the Pos & Neg cable terminals together for a few minutes. This will power drain or reset the GEM and PCM. Reconnect the battery and try the original FOB first; then try FOB programming again.

 

Will give that a try in the morning, see what happens. Let you know. Thanks

 

Look closer at the fob battery contacts. I used to change batteries in them all day long when people were too timid to do it, VERY common for the contacts to crack at solder points to not make--wait for it--contact (funny, huh?)...........................of course a new battery does nothing for that issue.

Dropping them is what does it.

The customers get pretty non-plussed when you tell them that and I got blamed for 'breaking it' more than once. People just refuse to accept their own part in things happening.

 

Tries a new fob and that did not work either so that answered the damaged contacts question.

 

None of the suggestions worked for me so far. anyone knows where to locater the receiver for the remote is located or which fuse controls it?

 

Here in many parts stores they have a receiver display right with the batteries to sell them, you punch fob and if working the display triggers a light to show fob is sending. The RFI chip can go bad too.

 

Unfortunately, the parts stores in my area do not have those. I suspect that it is not the remotes as they never dropped and the one I was using suddenly stopped working. I also tried a new remote with new battery with the same result. isn't there anything else that could cause this? The system does go into programming mode but not receiving anything from the remote.

 

I would think that if key starts car up in ignition at least a greater part of the receiver is working, PATS uses it too. Feel free to correct me...........

 

PATS and FOB (door open/close) operation are separate systems.

 

Try this: try FOB programming again with drivers seat belt buckled.

I'm not aware of an antenna or sensor that is the detector/receiver for the FOB. On my 2004, I believe the GEM is the FOB boss, and it likely has a short antenna wire extending outside of the GEM, and is buried inside the harness leading into the GEM. Located near passengers right foot.

In 2008 (your car) the Focus had a large systems configuration change. The 2004 GEM is likely called a BCM in your 2008 car. I'm not very knowledgeable with 2008+ Foci.

 

I understand that but both use RFI, why I asked for correction. My question being same as his now, or, where is the second RFI reception point? I thought the RFI pickup ring at key did it all...........enlighten us please. It would seem counterproductive to build two standalone RFI pickups in the cars but one never knows with Ford do they? I could see another with a dedicated alarm system though.

 

I do not want to research it. You seem to be argumentative recently, so I would like to avoid this. However, I still love most-everything you have done here at FF historically.

They are two independent systems; based on my fundamental understanding of PATS verses the key FOB. BTW, your use of RFI is confusing or wrong.

I posted earlier that I was unsure about it even for my 2004. I believe my FOB works via the GEM, which likely has an external wire that acts as an antenna for FOB reception. I will check my wire diagram book on Monday, to see if the GEM has an antenna wire.

 

Went looking at '06 and '09 service manuals and quickly buried in epages. Still seems to be saying the PATS ring is tied to anti-theft and the GEM if earlier and SJB modules if later control the remote portion of locks.

So if not using PATS ring then the module itself has it.

 

Yep, separate systems.

The key is an RFID chip system sensed by the coil around the lock, codes stored in the PCM, fobs are RF transmitters to the separate system that's part of the GEM from what I've seen mentioned.

 

As said already, PATS and Locking are 2 separate systems. Diagrams #1 & #2 are for locking (with & without Door Control Unit - DCU) whereas #3 is for PATS. These are for MY2010 but yours should be similar. The locking remote receiver (bottom RHS) is wired with a 10A fuse (F102) in the PJB and is commonly found (but I stand to be corrected) somewhere under the headlining and most likely in the front interior lamp area.

 

Thanks for that clarification ploygon............................is the receiver the radio antenna?

Marde? Recently? Wasn't aware I had slowed down somewhere in there.............by the way, you are right, I should have used the term RF instead of RFI, two different things. Sorry, once I have a question it becomes pretty much a quest...........my bad.

 

Marde? Recently? Wasn't aware I had slowed down somewhere in there............

Giggle. Good one. -and good point.

 

Tried the seat belt thing with no luck. I will try to locate the BCM. Thanks

 

Would that be the same module that controls the communication with the chip in the key? I have no issues with the key and starting the car so that module seems to be working.

 

I have no issues with the key and starting the car so that module seems to be working.

If PATS was the problem, you wouldn't be able to do that so the PATS system (i.e. the fob transponder and the on-board receiver) can be ruled out. Your problem seems to be related with the central locking system (which includes the anti-theft alarm if installed) which is made up of the fob RF transmitter and the locking RF receiver inside the vehicle.

There's a well explained thread on this forum on key programming for the locking system. At this stage, just make sure that you're following the correct procedure -

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/general-technical-chat/158101-key-fob-programming-how.html

 

Will look at that. I have programmed many before so the programming is not the problem. I will read the thread, maybe may find something.

 

Nothing new in that thread

 

Seem I need to find so info on the location of the modules Not sure where the BCM is located. IS that at the inside fuse box?

 

BCM location on a 2008? I'm not sure. I am guessing it is located in the same spot as my GEM, which is inside an interior access panel, located near front passenger seat, where the passengers right foot would rest, forward of the door jam. This area holds the GEM & the PCM in the MKI Focus, so guessing your BCM & PCM are inside there.

2008-2011 Ford Focus BCM Body Control Module | eBay

 

Thanks for your help. I will locate it tomorrow and report result.

 

MkII PCM is in the engine bay, but the BCM may still be in a similar location.

 

Located the BCM under the dash on passenger side Could disconnect the large wire connector but for the life of me I cannot get the smaller on off. I will keep trying.

 

Can't help you; but you can bet there is a physical retainer or clip of some sort. Just a matter of figuring out how to defeat the locking mechanism. I have ran into a couple types before that had me puzzled and maybe even pissed off.

 

Pissed off is an understatement.. Anyway this is little problem is driving me up the walls

 

Some of the wire bundle connectors tend to do that. Be sure you have identified the actual locking tab that has to depress (I am nearsighted and have to remove specs to see it clearly) and once you are sure of the tab then it is just stuck, some do that. Vibration over time burrs the plastic tab and detent up to not come loose clean easy.

Until locking tab is identified you are looking at damage forcing it and some can be pretty costly. Use of specialty tools often like 1/16" wide screwdriver or Xacto knife, dental pick, or other very small thin flat too to depress tab if needed, sometimes fingers do not press it down enough. Frustration making you pull out slightly while pushing down tab will bite too, push IN while pressing the tab. THEN pull out. It's happened to me a hundred times.

Just went through it on a third brake light assembly, I like to never figured out which corner was the release tab. Had to go and work on something else while getting my attitude back under control. Found tab and out instantly, they try to hide that crap to make you break parts.

The thing to get your wits back is to remember that they simple click all wiring in place 100% now, the more you damage the connector the harder it comes out. 80% of the tools on the assembly line are now all gloved hand only, no physical tool used at all. So it has to be easy.