DOOOOO IT!

Provided you have another car to drive while the Focus goes under the knife... A 2.5 with some upgrades would be pretty potent. Especially if you do some of the "maybe" cams [hihi] throw some semi aggressive cams in there with your intake and exhaust mods and have fun!

 

Me and my wife are picking up a '12 red Focus hatch next week, that will be my back up vehicle while this project is going on lmao. I love this car, it's only going to get better.

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Yeehaw for the 25,,,,,,,Throw a set of cams in the 23 head.

 

What is the stock power on the 2.5?

 

~170/170 hp/tq at crank from fusion stats

 

thats not bad compare to what the 2.3 and 2.0 have.
151/154 for the 2.3
136/136 for the 2.0

 

Yeah but I'm pretty sure at the wheels is maybe 125-130 realistically for a 2.3.

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Yeah but I'm pretty sure at the wheels is maybe 125-130 realistically for a 2.3.

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true, but all of those above measurements are what ford rated at the crank. Im sure we can draw some conclusions from it vs what we know the 2.0 and 2.3 produce at the wheels. I tried googling some dynos for the 2.5 but didnt find anything i liked. Seems some had issues with the auto version staying in one gear for their pulls. I only quickly browsed, maybe there is a better dyno for stock 2.5l out there, perhaps in mazda land

 

CLICKY here Isa link to some info looks like ~150/150 HP/tq to the wheels.

 

Pretty decent. I wonder how well it'll respond to bolt ons. Is there six speed I can yank from a Mazda?? If six I'll save a little more and get both engine and transaxle at the same time. Yeeeaaahh.

Just want decent power and good gas mileage, 6 speed will be just icing on the cake

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Pretty decent. I wonder how well it'll respond to bolt ons. Is there six speed I can yank from a Mazda??

The Fusion 2.5 was available with a six speed manual, just get a matched set. You may have to measure for custom axles.

 

If the 2.3 and 2.0 are anything to go on, Header, intake & cams, should get you close to 200whp

 

Too much. I read the the '05 and up have better gearing in their MTX75S to make up the power loss from going 2.3 to 2.0. True?? I can get a low mileage one for about $400.

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you want a mtx-75 out of a 2005-2007 for the highest ratio for quicker acceleration. Otherwise if you want MPG stick with your stock one.

 

I'd stick to a mtx75, as the 25 has more then enough torque.No need for a 6spd.

 

Well, the engine builder said everything is going to be fine and dandy until I go for anothrr SMOG inspection in a couple years, he said the swap will not pass SMOG with a different engine. He said I should just cam my stock engine for more power if I don't mind swapping cams and tuning every couple years.

God damn California, I guess I'll just stick with motorcycles.

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Well, the engine builder said everything is going to be fine and dandy until I go for anothrr SMOG inspection in a couple years, he said the swap will not pass SMOG with a different engine. He said I should just cam my stock engine for more power if I don't mind swapping cams and tuning every couple years.

God damn California, I guess I'll just stick with motorcycles.

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How would they know? If you swapped a 25 w/ a pr of mild cams? Even if they opened up the hood?

 

The problem lies in tuning the ECU and mapping. It will pop on the testing computer that they plug in the OBDII port.

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The problem lies in tuning the ECU and mapping. It will pop on the testing computer that they plug in the OBDII port.

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So your saying if you have your ecm reflashed via a tune they would know? Hows that? I really don't believe they have a ids to test Ford's & w/ that you'd have to know what to look for. They are just checking for codes & thats it.

 

AFAIK the testing computer issues come from tuning that 'turns off' some of the existing systems, ending with too many showing N/A or 'off'.

Many 2.5 conversions have been done with 2.3 heads, originally to avoid the problem of a VCT cam that wasn't supported. Doing it that way, all the 2.3 external hdwe. could be retained and the tuning changes wouldn't require anything stock for emissions to be removed.

Some of it could be temporarily blocked/turned off to reverse it again at smog check time if desired.

 

You won't pass with a header though... California won't pass a car that has a rear O2 sensor monitor set to N/A. Asked my friend in California. Mild cams should be fine, keep a muffler on there so they don't suspect the lope.

 

Other ways to disable the rear 02 sensor without it reporting to N/A. Theres the cheater resistor and the tried and test 1/4"? or 1/2"? can't remember hole in sparkplug defouler. Just gotta find a shop that won't check for a catalytic converter...maybe keep the heat shield on if possible

 

Or find a cat/manifold off an 05-07 ST 2.3L... Supposedly higher flow cat or something.

 

If the op is swapping heads for a 23 head, for sure use the 23 mani/cat & oem i/m.

 

They do make obd2 cats that have an o2 bung in one end. Pretty easy to amount it inline after the header and extend the o2 wiring to reach.

 

Yea ,but you have to figure the op is in California.

 

early mazda 6's had a nice looking factory header. Maybe using that and the factory heat shields could fool the eye?

 

Looks just like a '05-'07 23 st mani/cat.

 

Well this is still in the planning phase... might buy an extra head and what not and keep the 2.3 intact for biennial engine swap. But man, if I gotta go that route, I'm going to build a nasty 2.5.

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You can leave all the systems on an plugged in. Ordinarily this would throw a CEL but you can disable all CEL codes either individually for each system such as 2nd O2 or evap ect. As long as you leave them plugged in the computer will cycle them when the ignition is turned on and give the proper readiness code.

 

On my tuned Subaru, I just would swap the factory turboback on, and baby it in to the smog shop. It had turbo swap, injector swap, headers with factory heat shields, ECU remap among other things. 400hp and passed smog every time.

My point is that a reprogrammed ECU should be fine as long as there are no codes. You can't just reset them though, there has to be enough miles or cycles through all of the OBD parameters to show that they are ready and functioning.