Hello all, I have been viewing the forum from afar for a while now, and have looked at and read every thread on this issue. I am out of ideas.

The dreaded SVT flooding, hard start problem.

I have a 2003 SVT, love it (most of the time), and it has been giving me some problems. I have 151,000 miles. It has been relatively painless and aside from normal maintenance, relatively forgiving. This is my first and only SVT, have a regular Zetec and an 06 ST as well, love them too.

The SVT has developed the (apparently normal) hard start when cooler out. Once/if it starts once, it will start all day. Leaving for work is its problem (same though).

The Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor was leaking fuel into the vacuum line, so I replaced it, with new SP524 plugs. I was hoping that was it, nope. I pulled the valve cover and checked timing, and it is all still happy. I have tried the WOT trick and it doesn't help. However, on a scanner, my TPS only reads 94.1% at WOT. Normal?

I have checked for vacuum leaks at intake and hoses. I have tried unplugging the MAF. The only code I have is a downstream O2 sensor heater circuit. I cant imagine the rear O2 causing a starting problem, but that is next on the list to fix.

I need to get this fixed, as my little brother drives the Zetec, my wife drives the Duratec, and its getting cold, so hopping on the Grom to go to work when the SVT is moody, wont be an option for much longer.

Any input is appreciated.

Thank you!

If you still have the black plastic vacuum lines you need to replace them. Save the elbows and get a Dorman vacuum fitting kit from o'Reilly's and some rubber vacuum hose. Vacuum leaks are the number one cause of this. Other culprits are the ignition coil and the electrical connector to the coil.

 

I do still have some black plastic lines, most I have replaced with hose when i did the FRP sensor, because well, they didnt give me a choice. I have been talking to Vince about his "fix kit" for them.

Is the SVTF coil the same as a normal Zetec? I think I have one in the garage and may swap it out to the known good one, just because.

However, on the side of vacuum leaks, I have tried the old school carb cleaner on lines and around intake areas to check for vacuum leaks to no avail. Is there a better method on these cars?

 

My method for cold start has never failed. Turn key to on. Fasten seat belt. Turn key to start when the fuel light goes out. If it doesn't crank in 3 seconds, turn key off. Hold accelerator to floor. Attempt restart.

 

On the 20th, it was the worst it has ever been. It was 40 degrees out. I turned the key on and let the pump prime, and tried to start it, and it spit and sputtered but wouldn't fire off. Tried the WOT, same thing. I fiddled with it back and forth a couple times, and got irritated and held the key until it started. It took about 5 minutes of cranking, then it started. Last night, I dug out the cord for the block heater. Plugged it in, it was 38 degrees this morning, fired on the 3 revolution. Went out for lunch, primed key, and had to rest my foot on the throttle to get it to start. I replaced the vacuum lines with NiCop brake line, like Vince suggested. No help, aside from peace of mind.

I have a motorcraft coil, and coil pigtail being brought to me as we speak to try that this evening.

 

On the 20th, it was the worst it has ever been. It was 40 degrees out. I turned the key on and let the pump prime, and tried to start it, and it spit and sputtered but wouldn't fire off. Tried the WOT, same thing. I fiddled with it back and forth a couple times, and got irritated and held the key until it started. It took about 5 minutes of cranking, then it started. Last night, I dug out the cord for the block heater. Plugged it in, it was 38 degrees this morning, fired on the 3 revolution. Went out for lunch, primed key, and had to rest my foot on the throttle to get it to start. I replaced the vacuum lines with NiCop brake line, like Vince suggested. No help, aside from peace of mind.

I have a motorcraft coil, and coil pigtail being brought to me as we speak to try that this evening.

Replace the coolant temperature sensor. Clean the maf sensor.

 

The coolant temp sensor reads accurately on a scan tool. Is there more than one? One that would tell fuel and one that tells temp? Or is it like older fords with 1 2 wire for the computer and a one wire thermal switch for the gauge? IAT also reads within a few degrees of correct as well. (61° F vs 66° Actual)

 

Both read accurately cold? Until you change the coil and the coil pigtail the only other low hanging fruit is the pcv hose and the spark plugs. Fouled plugs will not start a cold engine.

 

You are risking a backfire with your warm start method. Either foot off the throttle or full throttle.

 

Make sure your charging system is good. 12.65 volts minimum on the battery cold, key off. 13.6 to 14.3 running.

 

Charging right at 14.0 at idle. 12.8 resting. All visible vacuum lines replaced with 3/16 brake line. Did the intake couplers like you said. No vacuum leaks based one smoke test and carb cleaner trick. Cleaned a couple corroded grounds, checked others.
Barely started today @ 74°. Runs perfect after. Only code is still P0141, Heater Circuit B1S2.

Sitting on test mode in the cluster; and fuel volume is bouncing between 059.t and 05A.t. Don’t know what that means. ECT reads 180ish.

I’m out of ideas and getting frustrated at this point.

 

With out a wideband air fuel gauge and a X3 Flasher you wont be able to find the issue easily

I can help if you can get me a datalog

Tom

 

With out a wideband air fuel gauge and a X3 Flasher you wont be able to find the issue easily

I can help if you can get me a datalog

Tom

Id like to get one, just dont have the extra $450 right now. Poor men have poor ways.

Another reason I am getting frustrated. I dont have the funds to "replace this, replace that".

 

How old are your battery cables and your starter?

 

Original, as far as I can tell.

You might want to do a voltage drop test while you are trying to start it. See how many volts you are losing.

On initial crank, voltage drops to 10.2 or so.

PCV parts came in today, going to change those soon like you suggested a few days ago. Nobody in town had them in stock. My PCV hose is collapsed mostly, if not all the way shut at the first bend by the intake. Would think it’d run rough if it was completely shut, but it needed replaced so I’m doing that after dinner.

 

You might want to do a voltage drop test while you are trying to start it. See how many volts you are losing.

 

Nope. Back to the drawing board. I was hoping the pinched PCV hose was messing with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum, and thus, over fueling.

Not the case. Going to figure out how to rig up an actual pressure gauge on the fuel pump and go from there. Putting a new fuel filter on it for kicks and grins, but don’t think that would cause it to flood. I’ve swapped out all spark related things for new stuff. It’s almost gotta be leaky injectors wetting/fouling the plugs after the car is turned off, bleeding pressure from the rail.

 

Find someone with a SCT X3 or X4 Flasher to barrow any Ford X3 or X4 will work

Tom

 

Sounds almost the same as my problem. Was there a resolution to this one?

 

Sold it. Guy I sold it to swore he had it figured out, and sold it as well. Currently for sale by the 3rd owner after me.

 

All this. And no one has found a solution? I just bought mine. Drove PERFECT for 6 days. I went to check codes because the PO welded the o2 bung in wrong spot to watch fuel trims, noticed the IMRC was p1518 p1520 so I inspected it. Determined it was bad. Dropped the car down off the jack. And started it, decided to run through some function test on the Modis and during idle control test the car died and would not start back. Smelt flooded, and now here I am reading you guys post and having a flooded car that I do not know what to do with.

 

You have vacuum leaks. The svt is pretty finicky and has a horrible cold start issue. Furthermore, no one wants to do the work involved to fix it.

 

If I have piqued your interest send me a pm and I will tell you what you need to do.

 

What's up PB.

Let's hear what you've got dude. I'm in the same boat.

I don't know how to send PMS. it's probably easy but can't figure it out.

 

I pmed you. Thank you for actually replying and offering assistance at fixing this issue.

 

You are welcome.

 

For the record, was this (quoting from your older post) the advice?

For my 2 SVT'S, replacing all of the vacuum lines and then putting new intake gaskets between the head and intake, retightening the intake couplers eliminated my cold start problems.

When we pulled the head on ours (bent valves) last summer, those intake gaskets were indeed flat and hard.

I replaced a lot of small things including those, PCV line, vacuum hoses and front O2 sensor as well as the distributor connector. We never had any starting issues but we DID have an occasional "half warmed up" stall that has never recurred.

 

I have found that intake warpage at the throttle body boss and the iac boss cause dynamic vaccum leaks undetectable by smoke test. I file both bosses flat as well as sanding the bottom of the iac valve flat as it has a die cast body and the sealing surface is not flat.

 

 

The ect sensor should be replaced as well. It controls cold start fuel maps.

 

Good info, thanks!

 

You're welcome

 

X2 - Great info and thanks for sharing.

 

I had a similar issue but it was completely unrelated to the vacuum lines or intake gasket. I started with the spark plugs and worked back through wires and eventually the coil. The coil was the issue for me and it's been running pretty ever since. Just thought I would toss that in here as plugs, wires, and coil are easy and not too expensive to replace on the SVT engine.

 

Check compression, yall. Thats what mine ended up being. Low compression. pbfoot was a huge help, and the vacuum leaks are definitely part of the issues known on these cars. I used the copper brake lines, and original connectors off the lines, and bent the brake lines accordingly. Turned out very clean, and gave peace of mind. Intake gaskets were also flat. Change em. Takes an hour max, and costs $20.

 

So since posting this, earlier this morning I did get the car running. Not well. But it is running long enough to throw two codes.
P0453 and p1383. The p0453 is just something going on at the fuel tank when I did the fuel pump. It's been on and ran just fine with that code.

The reason for this whole thing was because I was replacing the VCT solenoid because I was getting the p1383 code. Even though I've timed it SEVERAL times from the attached URL.

https://www.focusfanatics.com/threads/timing-belt-procedure.712033/

I have the updated VCT solenoid and pigtail from marra sport. I tested it before I installed it so I know it isn't that.

MAYBE MAYBE I screwed something up while timing it with the method in the attachment. There's another thread somewhere that I can't find that was much more detailed. And I can't locate it anymore. It was almost the same but without turning the cam toward the front of the car.

So that's where I'm at dude. Cars running. Brand new VCT. p1383.

I've got the motor locked into TDC and I'm about to time it again. Just need to find the right post because the one in the attachment has failed me.

 

So since posting this, earlier this morning I did get the car running. Not well. But it is running long enough to throw two codes.
P0453 and p1383. The p0453 is just something going on at the fuel tank when I did the fuel pump. It's been on and ran just fine with that code.

The reason for this whole thing was because I was replacing the VCT solenoid because I was getting the p1383 code. Even though I've timed it SEVERAL times from the attached URL.

https://www.focusfanatics.com/threads/timing-belt-procedure.712033/

I have the updated VCT solenoid and pigtail from marra sport. I tested it before I installed it so I know it isn't that.

MAYBE MAYBE I screwed something up while timing it with the method in the attachment. There's another thread somewhere that I can't find that was much more detailed. And I can't locate it anymore. It was almost the same but without turning the cam toward the front of the car.

So that's where I'm at dude. Cars running. Brand new VCT. p1383.

I've got the motor locked into TDC and I'm about to time it again. Just need to find the right post because the one in the attachment has failed me.

Turn the crankshaft 2 times, stop short of TDC and insert the crank pin. Snug with a wrench. Not super tight . Rotate to be against pin. If the cam tool inserts, the timing is correct. 1383 is retarded timing. Meaning you would have to continue clockwise rotation on the intake cam to insert the tool. There was a tsb for the wiring to the vct solenoid back in the day.

 

The vct solenoid advances the camshaft up to 60 degrees. It cannot retard. So looking from the passenger side at the intake cam, the cam can only rotate towards the radiator. One thing I've found is oil pressure from rotating the crankshaft cam cause the cam to advance slightly. Why I always pull the cap off the intake cam oil reservoir.