In my experience that is a clogged or bad Catalytic convertor and it's chocking out the engine at idle. It's probably struggling when you are driving as well if the cat is clogged

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In my experience that is a clogged or bad cataleptic convertor and it's chocking out the engine at idle. It's probably struggling when you are driving as well if the cat is clogged

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Thank you for the input.

The PO told me he thought the cat was bad as well. Rockauto sells them for $189 plus s&h. Maybe I can swing that. I just hate to have the same exact problem after spending that much. What are youre thoughts on replacing the cat with a straight pipe? Not legally, but performance wise. It would remedy the clogged scenario, but would it throw an 02 code? Is there a trick to that? The reason I ask is Im good with a welder and can get a piece of pipe a hell of a lot easier and cheaper than replacing the cat.

 

Well with the front collision even with an undamaged bumper I would look at the exhaust manifold for damage-and both O2 sensors for damage as well.
The O2 sensor will possibly be responsible for the lean code but not the rich code.
For that I would look at the PCV hose. A common issue especially if it has sat for any length of time.

 

Well with the front collision even with an undamaged bumper I would look at the exhaust manifold for damage-and both )2 sensors for damage as well.
The O2 sensor will possibly be responsible for the lean code but not the rich code.
For that I would look at the PCV hose. A common issue especially if it has sat for any length of time.

Thank you for the input. The heat shield for the cat is pushed in a little from the radiator on impact. The upstream 02 sensor looks to be untouched, but I guess its still possible it took damage. The downstream 02 sensor isn't close both connectors/looms are fine.

Where is the PCV located?

 

upstream Cat O2 sensor and Cat itself both sound like they are faulty, downstream o2 sounds like its reading correctly..

96% of the time when an o2 fails it reads lean.

if the upstream o2 is damaged/plugged or misreading it will run the engine rich which will foul the cat and pop the 0420.

 

I think Im missing something. Is the 2195 and 2196 for both sensors or just one? How do you know the downstream is fine?

 

I just re read that yours was collapses as well, Ferel. So, do yall think its a combination of problems? I can replace that hose tomorrow if its in stock anywhere local.

 

its not always the case thats the thing.. ive seen some cars run fine and others stall.. mine would stall after x amount of minutes driving and would be a pain in the arse to restart.... my other focus had a collapsed pipe but it ran fine.. i honestly don't know the full breakdown on why it affects some and not others. theres a possibility of compression being passed through on worn engines but this comes back to my blue and gold focus the blue one was the one stalling and it only had 114,000 the gold one wouldn't and it had 254,000.. so it contradicts the thoughts but again i dont know the condition of the cylinders ive never pulled the top ends off who knows if i have a leaky cylinder or not

 

Those PVC lines SUUUUUCCKKK! I replaced mine on both zetec cars I have

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Those PVC lines SUUUUUCCKKK! I replaced mine on both zetec cars I have

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try owning a fleet of zetecs xD lets just say i had a weekend to burn off and some extra money and i cleaned out 7 dealerships of their stock of the new hoses.
[cheers] case of beer, few friends and access to the back office that has sat TV and a few couches at the building yep xD got the hoses done got plastered and passed out in the shop watching satellite..[chairfall]
i still have a dozen or so older focuses as company vehicles with several parked as parts cars as they were written off and all have a salvage on them (the frames are beyond repair and i dont and wont sell them as a whole once a subframe is damaged its damaged people think they can fix them but at the cost of possibly making it weaker or nulling the ability of it properly crushing in a severe accident.)

 

Thanks for the help guys. Ill see if I can replace the pcv hose and check back tomorrow.

 

side cutters and flathead and your good to go.. if you dont have the clamp tool grab a new hose clamp for it i use the tension style not the flat band type the flat band ones are a pain in the arse the tension ones wont want to roll away and out of reach

you honestly dont NEED to use them but ford recommends you use them.

i use these, pinch slide release done

 

Okay, how the hell do you get the hose off the back of the intake. I got most of the hose out, but I can't get my hands in there to remove the clamp and small bit of hose that's left. Is there a trick?

 

side cutters and a flathead is how i did mine. slowly nibbled the ring till it cut through then used the flathead carefully to break the bond of the remnants of the hose to the plastic sleeve
the ring is a single piece the head is just where the crimpers compress and pull the ring tight around the hose so you can hit the head with the side cutters.

you can see and access the section of the band with the parts that lock you can also use the flathead to pop the locking section apart.. these are single use so the ring is garbage once you remove it
as Gonzo put it.. changing this pipe SUCKS on how this band is installed and the accessibility of it

 

Thank you. Ive dealt with those crappy hose clamps before, just don't know how y'all get your hands in there with side cutters and have room to squeeze. I'll try to borrow some better ones from work tonight. I'm sure I'll get it eventually. Part is in order from Carquest. $20. Should be here tomorrow.

 

xD no one said it was ever easy xD i still feel the bite of all the sharp ends i cut my arm on trying to get those stupid rings off xD

 

New Pcv hose installed. The old clamp and remaining piece of hose practically fell off this time around. So while I was there I found a vacuum line that isn't connected. It comes from right above the Pcv hose bung on the back ad the intake and runs to the left of the throttle body over towards the alternator. That it where it stops. I can't see any ports that that could plug into. Any guesses?

 

i shall take a look on one of my engines in a short bit its raining at the moment but it starts and stops so when there is an opening i will go out and take a peek on where its going

 

I found it. It goes to the fuel pressure regulator. Can't believe it ran so well without properly regulated fuel pressure.

 

Wow! That could cause all ur issues right there. How does it run now?

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found 4 running out of mine one of which snakes all around under my intake, injectors to my fuel rail here is the breakdown in the pictures i have numbered the pipes in hopes they will assist you finding the home for yours

 

While I got help from you experts....I got a few more issues maybe y'all know all about.

This just started. When it the engine, the tach doesn't move off 0 for 5-10 seconds. Then everything is fine.

Also, if I put the radio fuse in, I get buzzing from the driver door speaker and the radio doesn't come on. It has power constant power and signal power. The red security light shines bright when key off and gets very dim with key on.

Thanks again guys, y'all have been a huge help.

 

security light on which the dash or the one under the 2-3-4-5 total annoyance plate??? ( i know its called an antitheft plate but they tend to act up and punching it usually resolves the radio cutting out (when the plate acts up the radio thinks the plate is ejected and turns the radio off)

if its the blinky light ON the radio itself then most likely the radio is toast.. if its the blinky light next to the hazard then i would suspect there is an issue with the harness/loom as both the dash blinky/hazards and radio run on the same loom or POSSIBLY the actual hazard security light module has an issue..

as for the tach its normal mine does similar one of my cars every time i start it the entire cluster calibrates the other sits stupid for about 5 seconds then kicks in.. theres a one year difference and both are zetecs.

 

Man, you're fast. It was hose 1....if that's pointing to the U shaped hose beneath that quick connect.

 

Oh wait. That's #2.

 

also i failed to mention those 6 disk changers are notorious for eating disks, loosing positioning and sometimes totally jamming. i just checked my stock of those 6 disk changers that blinking light SHOULD be blinking and not on all the time there may be an internal issue (shorted/dead) with it which is causing that one speaker to fizzle out..

 

Oh. I assumed Zetec was a play in Vtec and meant it had vvt. I just got back from the highway test drive. It runs great. It's not fast, but being non vvt, it's as expected. The slush box is terribly slow at shifting.

One thing I noticed before all this was that it had a hard time staying at a constant speed. Say 60. If it got up to 61 and I let off the gas a bit, it was as if I completely removed my foot. Also slightly pushing the pedal would cause it to damn near down shift. Now it acts like a normal car. It feels good and smooth.

Odd that the anti theft piece on the radio would cause that buzzing when removed. I plan to work on that tomorrow, so I'll let you know the outcome.

Another thing to clarify(for future reference) is that all gauges are hesitating to register. Not just the tach. It took exactly 10 seconds this last time. The odometer back light seems weak and pulsing as well.

 

Oh. I assumed Zetec was a play in Vetec and meant it had vvt. I just got back from the highest test drive. It runs great. It's not fast, but being non vvt, it's as expected. The slush box is terribly slow at shifting.

One thing I noticed before all this was that it had a hard time staying at a constant speed. Say 60. If it got up to 61 and I let off the gas a bit, it was as if I completely removed my foot. Also slightly pushing the pedal would cause it to damn near down shift. Now it acts like a normal car. It feels good and smooth.

Odd that the anti theft piece on the radio would cause that buzzing when removed. I plan to work on that tomorrow, so I'll let you know the outcome.

Anything thing to clarify(for future reference) is that all gauges are hesitating to register.l, not just the tach. It took exactly 10 seconds this last time. The odometer back light seems weak and pulsing as well.

errrr. now im leaning on theres a problem with your harness somewhere if your having that many issues with that harness behind the dash.. weather its someone thats tapped into the harness and spliced a wire wrong or its shorting.. heres a vid of how most older Zetec clusters calibrate but this is not always the case my 2 gold 2001 focuses did this my blue 2002 does NOT unless i pull the battery off for more then a minute...
watch your hearing the audio is tinny it was taken by a crappy digital camera years ago when i bought a car that supposedly had a destroyed engine from a mechanic shop about to scrap it and it turned out to be just a timing belt
the engine is basically got 0 compression and backfiring through the intake popping the pipe off xD sorry i couldn't get enough sending the intake pipe flying with the anti-fart resonator thing..

 

as mentioned some do, some do not.. my 01's do all the time my 02 does not unless the battery cable is removed for more then 1 minute they may of changed it who knows i do know i threw on one of my spare clusters from another 02 and it doesn't yet one of my 2000 spare cluster does so they may of changed how it acts or the firmware built into it

 

Moved this to General Tech Chat where it fits better.

Zetec Performance for power modification chat isn't a great section for the questions.

 

Ty, let my section go to rot in recent history

 

xD lmao how many times do i see messages being tossed around i swear this forum should have a "must wear a hard hat" and DUCK with how many moved messages i come across

 

whadda ya want?

We try to help out, as many are on phones now with less detail in the screen they might not have ALL the listed info. showing on what fits where. At least it's an excuse - not reading to see where things fit has always been an issue.

The problem is that many don't get all the responses they could if it's in the wrong section, and it's not as avail. for research when someone is searching for info..

Worst (or best) example is an Electrical issue posted in Focus Electric. Few Electric Powered owners frequent the Site, so the OP of that can be calling "Bueller" for a while without answer....

 

pokes your screen, i was being sarcastic [slap]

i know what you bunch are doing and you do it well the comment stating hard hat required means the mods actually DO things unlike some other forums which they use it as a power trip status quote and do pretty much duck all, all day

hands you a beer =D[cheers][drinking][cheers]

 

Tx - Can use it!

Best thing here is that we've got plenty of reg. members to help out, and a good group of Mods. Don't often have to do much serious, except for getting rid of Spammers, and get a lot of help.

 

grins looking at your date xD you joined 2 months prior to me xD
ive always been a reg always taking apart my good cars trying to help.

i had a minor forced vacation due to a medical issue that put me in a coma xD but im back.. i just got my name changed tho as i technically haven't used feral in many years