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All the D.I.Y performance things on the cheap for the newbs

5K views 30 replies 19 participants last post by  NX_Focus  
#1 ·
Like the older members here, there is no substitution for using quality parts (at a price) to make an outstanding vehicle. That being said, after seeing numerous post on what can be done, at little to no cost, for the person who is starting out modifying his vehicle, this is a complete list of the what can be done, and how to, for little to no money, for those of you who need to know in one location. In all fairness, i to have done this myself.

1: Take out that hydrocarbon trap, grab that interior lip with a pair of pliers and PULL. The tube that comes out is there to silence your intake for the masses. it creates restriction, and silences intake noise. It will give you that deep intake tone at wide open throtle that people want. FREE

2: Get rid of all the tubing after the mass air flow sensor and and slap on a cone intake. Frees up a ton of restriction for 20 bucks.

3: Cut off the last resonator on your exhaust. Its the thing below the rear bumper, also called the lunch box delete. Get a sawsall, cut it off and take it to ANY muffler shop and have them attach a piece of pipe to the last clamp. Cost no more than 20 bucks, and offers a nice exhaust sound, couple gurgles, mabey a soft pop, but nothing rediculous.

4: Grab that same sawsall and hack off a good inch of your shifter (manual models). Take the extra step, remove the reverse lockout, and cut two inches off the shaft and put on a new shift knob. FREE

5: Keep up your maintenance!! Check your tire pressure, check your oil, keep a clean car. Every day is race day. Clean pavement, smooth lines, sharp mentality. Speed is a bypruduct of smooth driving.

6: Dont skimp. By quality prouducts.

These cars are not fast, but its all of us here, in this community, that shows that we have a love of our vehicles, an interest in learning, and an appreciation of vehicles that makes us better than most retards in a fast car who did not earn it, and don't appreciate it.

Happy and safe driving. See you at the track!!
 
#3 ·
1: Take out that hydrocarbon trap, grab that interior lip with a pair of pliers and PULL. The tube that comes out is there to silence your intake for the masses. it creates restriction, and silences intake noise. It will give you that deep intake tone at wide open throtle that people want. FREE

2: Get rid of all the tubing after the mass air flow sensor and and slap on a cone intake. Frees up a ton of restriction for 20 bucks.
Pictures of 1 & 2 please?!
 
#7 ·
Just invented number one today, and arguably the funnest thing ever. The hydrocarbon trap is the box on top of engine that is normally where a normal airbox would be. On duratecs this is just a baffle to keep intake noises at a bare minimum. like our air filter this is a sealed unit. super simple install. 10 mm bolt holding trap to car, flat head screw driver holding trap to throttle body tubing, and just disconnect tour iat sensor. Tell you what kids. I'll make my first how to video tonight for ya. Might be fun.
 
#9 ·
nice info.. need more ideas. i past a thread 2 yrs ago asking for a idea to do a mix parts list. like the info that the escape intake works on our cars. how Chrysler ingniton coils on plugs work for the zetec.. we need a post or thread that tells people what can be mixed & matched for builds. right now i am working on a idea & will put a post up if it works.
 
#10 ·
Can you go a little more in depth on #1 & 2? I have a Steeda SRI on the vehicle right now and if you're talking about what I think you're talking about, adding an SRI just deletes that tubing anyway?

As for #1. What rubber tubing silencer? Do you have any pics or anything I can go off of? Not sure what you're talking about..
 
#13 ·
Dont forget about that $0 thunder throttle mod. Its a nice free little kinda upgrade.

**clean the idle stop screw first** if you cant get it clean dont do the rest its the only hard part of the whole mod.
 
#14 ·
note that's only for the older ones, the 08+ are drive by wire and you don't wanna mess w/ that. I asked him.
 
#16 · (Edited)
#17 ·
my AR103 from Advance was 2.16 each. but i did them & a cfm 67mm tb & a K&N cai. noticed 3/4mpg gain in the past 2 weeks. good throttle response but that is do to the tb. think the gas mileage is do to all the mods. oh also urethane lower rear engine mount
 
#18 ·
I'm going to look for the hydrocarbon trap/wait for the video. I also think using sythetic oil frees up a little hp and mpg. I switched back and forth a couple of times on my F-150 between Castrol GTX 5W30 and Mobil 1 5W-30 and noticed a consistant 1/2 mpg difference on a 19 mpg truck. I had one free oil change on my used Focus and the dealer did the Motorcraft 5W-20 (so I had clean fresh oil). When I switched to Mobil 1 I noticed at least 1 mpg more. If it's easier at cruising speed (more mpg), there's got to be a little more going to the wheels at WOT. Our cars may not be fast, but its gets me where I'm going quickly and cheaply. I get noticed less by LEOs while getting ~ 35 mpg. I know I've have been busted by now with a Mustang GT while getting ~ 26 mpg.
 
#21 ·
How about removing the muffler with lunchbox and just leaving the cat? Would that lose too much back pressure? I had everything behind the cats removed on my F150, gave me a few more miles per gallon on average. Not to familliar with the 08+ Focus, so that is why I asked.
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#27 ·
Remove oil pan, remove Ballance Shaft, install plug (CFM/Cosworth), re-install oil pan, fill with oil...1-2 hour job depending on how long it takes to remove the old gasket material from the pan/motor. There are simple directions provided with the plug and the job is simple.

If your motor mounts are bad you might notice it but I put new mounts in at the same time and it ran smooth as ever.
 
#30 ·
On the old B&M you could move the cable connection to the center stalk up slightly. Moving it up reduces throw into gears, however, it's ability to be moved much further up is limited by the console. I modified mine, but could only go so far without raising the front of the console with spacers, and that ended up not giving me enough room for my coffee cup. I cannot remove coffee cup and AC for performance- never have, never will. Unless some day I have a race-only car.

Now I don't know if any of the other aftermarket manufacturers have made their upper cable connections out of a separate piece of metal like the B&M was. I had to disassemble mine (difficult due to red thread lock) then sand and drill. I don't know by how much it shortened the throw- but it didn't feel like much.

I have wanted to look at Mustang Tri-Ax shifters to see if there are similarities that could be exploited, but haven't found anything that looked promising so far.