You'll get codes for solenoids even though they work perfect, the code simply points you in a direction. Could be electrical before or after the solenoid and trans internal wear will pop the codes too.

If high mileage the trans is well known for wearing heavily at the driver side end cover to let the direct clutch needed in 3rd not work due to hydraulic leaks.

 

So if I understand, there is wear in the trans case itself so it will never work. this requires trans replacement.

 

ok I need to be enlightened.

put a new solenoid in add fluid. go for a ride get to about 30 mph and 3rd gear and it starts revving but like its kinda grabbing. turn around and get the wrench light and a p0751 code. Car will accelerate like its in 3rd gear not slipping at all. doing 60 at about 2500 rpms but no 4th gear .

I assume its not a hard part worn out like amc49 suggests or like the bands are worn out as it does have 3rd gear after the wrench light comes on. that leaves pcm or electri al but I don't know where to look next. Any suggestions? than ks

 

is the wear spot in the solenoid block?

 

...........................................

 

No, the end cover wears at the support stub that holds both direct and reverse seal rings. Then both can leak.

You are changing A and B solenoids which have nothing to do with 3rd gear. 1, 2, and 3 have A and B off and normal. 4 uses A on though.

A and B sols. ARE used in reverse, neutral, and park, if reverse is leaking too from the end cover then that could be your sol A code. It can leak enough to affect other gears. The direct like I said messes with 3rd gear.

Another common wear issue is the single band servo piston which can break its' servo rod to misapply 2 and 4, what the servo controls. That misapply can affect 3rd too.

Mileage on trans?

Everybody thinks solenoids instantly fix all problems but they really only do maybe 50% of the time, you get codes on them all day even if nothing is wrong with them because that is the only way the PCM can tell something is wrong.

 

thanks for explaining that.

249k on the trans

everything seems fine. there is no lag going into drive or reverse. no flare or clunk while driving until 3rd then its like neutral.
ADDED there is no lag or flare even into 3rd AFTER i get the wrench/p0751

the big thing that's confusing me is why do I get 3rd gear after the wrench light/p0751?

thanks again!

 

With the price of fluid. You should have just pulled a low miles junkyard unit. Also Get a video.. Ideally have a passenger hold the camera. 250k is the upper limit for the Autos in these cars considering how rare proper care is. Also is 2008 a LV transmission... I know I heard they approved it retroactively but not sure if actually original spec or if I believe anything ford says anymore.

 

'...why do I get 3rd gear after the wrench light/p0751?'

No clue although trans goes to 3rd gear when light comes on, the failsafe mode. It may be that PCM repressurizes the trans to cover up some leaks when in failsafe.

It may help to know that in 3rd ALL solenoids are off except for the EPC main line pressure one, showing that issues in 3rd are leak or breakage or dead worn parts, they just about have to be.

The band servo piston leak that normally affects 2 and 4 can affect 3 when the piston turns sideways (due to broken pin) to leak bad enough, leaks in other places can affect the one thing you need to work by losing pressure somewhere else. Why ATX issues can be hard to find, too much interconnection in all the hydraulic passages, one broke can affect all.

 

my underestanding from what I've read about 3rd gear failsafe is thats all you get for forward gears is 3rd.

After my wrench light, I have 1,2 3 and it shifts normally. Since I have ,after the wrench light, a functioning 3rd gear and SSa code and no 4th gear it must be a leak, either thru a seal or a broken spring/stuck valve. Am I making sense? Haven't had to deal with many transmission issues.

I'm tinkering with trans until school is out. Then I'll have more time to dedicate to installing a used unit. If I get it sorted out, great. If not time for a used one.


thanks for the help!

 

deceided to get a used trans. found one with 93k. I figure I'll switch over the new solenoid. besides a filter anything elsse I should do?

 

Make SURE converter is all the way in when trans gets close to engine, common for them to slip out of place moving trans around. Like 3 steps to go over there before it is all the way in. Trans is in right when you have to pull converter forward a little bit to install the studs in flexplate holes.

 

how the hell do you get the nuts off/on? I can barely get 2 fingers in there and cant see a dam thing

nevermind figured out the isolater came off

 

i'm never doing this again. it was easier to replace the hpop, injector orings and rebuild the rurbo in my 6.0 diesel. t trans almost fell off the jack twice, I couldn't get the stupid trans up in place without something hitting. it took me 3 hours of adjusting, pushing, pulling, swearing, prying, cursing and loudly proclaiming how much this sucks to get the stupid trans to line up.

Thank you for the info about indexing the t/c. That actually was the only thing that worked out.

thanks for the help. I'll be finishing up tomorrow and give a recap.

 

Front wheel drive cars sure have tight engine compartments. have to get the angle right of everything and bolt together and then jack up into place and even then theres usually cussing , complaining to get it into its home correctly....

glad you got it handled.

 

My 2 cents so if anyone reads this thread later. I always drop the front subframe when pulling a transmission in a focus. Makes removing and installing the transmission a breeze. Furthermore, at high mileage it is a great time to refresh the sway bar mounts and steering rack mounts.