Hi dgross,

I have some experience with diagnosing evaporative emissions issues on Ford vehicles. Usually a P1450 indicates the fuel tank pressure is reading that it is always under slight vacuum. This can happen for one of two reasons (usually).

First and most common I find is the purge valve is leaking a little bit of vacuum to the fuel system when the vent is commanded closed. This is really a vacuum leak and if bad enough could cause a cranking no start.

Second thing that I find P1450 can set from is a fuel tank pressure sensor being contaminated with grit/grease/dirt/under coating (if you recently had you car oil sprayed this might be it).

Your best shot to diagnose if it is the first one, unplug your purge valve electrical connector and undo the fuel vapour line connection after the valve that heads to the tank (just be careful with the plastic clips on the vapour line not to drop or break them). Start the engine and either put a vacuum gauge on it and see if there is vacuum, if you don't have a vacuum gauge you can also put your finger over the opening and see if you feel any vacuum. If there is vacuum with it unplugged (unplugging makes sure the valve is 'commanded' to the closed position). If you have forscan or an equivalent like IDS or a snapon/autel scanner you can do the same test without even popping the hood!. Access PCM datalogger/PIDs and find fuel tank pressure (FTP), evap purge valve commanded position, and evap vent valve commanded position. Monitor fuel tank pressure and command the vent valve ON, this will close it. Make sure the purge valve is commanded closed or OFF, better yet you could just unplug it. Start your engine and watch fuel tank pressure, if vent is commanded ON (makes it closed), and purge valve is commanded OFF/unplugged (makes it closed). If fuel tank pressure stays the same that's probably not it. If it starts to fall in the negative pressure then you likely need a purge valve.

To diagnose if it is the second common thing you need forscan or an equivalent like IDS or a snapon/autel scanner. Access PCM datalogger/PIDs and find fuel tank pressure (FTP). Install your refueling funnel in the fuel filler neck and your FTP should read nearly exactly 0psi. If it doesn't you might need a fuel tank pressure sensor replacement, could also be wiring to the sensor, or a restriction in a vapour line. Usually is a contaminated sensor though.

Based on what your symptoms are it sounds like it is a purge valve. I never recommend just throwing parts at something without doing some diag first so hopefully what I put above helps you figure it out. Update with results!

 

There was a recall involved with this issue on essentially all 2012-18 2.0L focuses. Call the dealer to see if it was done already. If not, then it'll probably be a free repair.

 

Agree, ask a dealer if you're under the purge valve recall. If not, and I usually don't throw parts at a problem, but I'd spend the ~$30 and 5 mins to replace it myself.

 

About the recalls, you can check if your car is on a recall list by yourself too. Just do a license plate lookup here - License Plate Lookup - Free Plate Owner Search - AutoDetective

 

That's helpful but the specific info on submodels, engines, trans types, etc likely won't be reflected there so it'll just lump all recalls together for a given year and model whether they apply or not.
I usually go right to the source and enter my VIN on Ford's site: Check For Ford® Recalls And Field Service Actions | Official Ford Owner Site They go a step further and let you know if your particular vehicle has any open recalls that need to be done.

 

So I'm getting the same thing. I have p1450 and p0456 codes. My car starts intermittently. I don't have to do anything just keep turning the key until it starts up. I've been trying to diagnose it by myself for about a month but today after fueling it started first try, died, started again, ran rough for a few seconds and was fine. Looking for a purge valve right now to replace it. Any ideas?

 

Changed it. Didn't work.

 

I'm having a very similar issue and I have been having it for a while, only mine is a 2007. It just seems like when I turn the key sometimes it just ignores me. I've replaced the starter twice, alternator once, battery is brand new, replaced the ignition switch in the steering column, and confirmed that it is not my car's anti theft. I originally thought I fixed it when it refused to start for a few days and I changed out one of the relays and it started immediately and was fine for a couple of days before starting to become unreliable again, and changing with another good working relay didn't help this time. I'm stumped