I found a local shop with a good reputation. Older man and his son, out in the country. Always busy. He said my old fluid was clean when drained. So maybe the job was not needed in my case.

Your shop may be less skilled, do something wrong, and create a new problem. Hard to predict the result, good or bad.

 

Where is the transmission dipstick?

 

IDK, I don't have a 2012. Mine looks different from the oil dipstick, I can say that. It shouldn't be too hard to find.

Transmission fluid should be checked after the car is fully warmed up, and still running. Unlike checking the oil.

 

This isn't a conventional automatic transmission. In this case the transmission fluid isn't ATF, but a special transmission oil. This oil doesn't go into the gear box with the clutches. You also won't find a dipstick for it. Changing the oil in the transmission for this car is more similar to changing the oil in a rear differential. I do mine every 50k miles, despite the manual saying 100k. I've had it done twice so far with no issues.

 

I changed mine at 75,000 miles on my 2018, it was very clean almost clear/transparent, not very easy access and car needs to be level to drain/fill correctly, IOW a PIA. I don't see why it couldn't go at least 150,000 or lifetime ??, OEM fluid is very expensive, more so nowdays, probably 1st and last time I change it

 

So to drain the car should be level correct?

 

Yes, you have to remove the lower plastic cover and the left wheel to access drain + fill plugs, after you remove the cover + wheel, lower and/or adjust car back to level(secure with jack stands, etc), the fill plug is still kind of difficult to access, may need a swivel, etc. A long plastic hose and some kind of pump is ideal, but you can also use a funnel with a long hose from engine compartment, similar to a rear end, fill until overflows, wait a few minutes and install plug, etc,

Just general PSA/info for any casual reader, Good Luck

 

You should trust the manual's recommendations, not old wives and their tales. If you don't have much experience, I'd suggest taking it to a good shop. If you'd like to do it yourself, you can! But buy a good mechanic's tool kit, a manual (factory or Haynes or similar), a secure location to execute (flat and solid, if not an enclosed garage), and 4x the time estimated to execute.

 

Doesn't the manual state you only need to change engine oil every 12,000 miles? I change it every 5,000, and even at 5,000 the motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend has turned a bit too watery for my liking.

You do you though. I have heard that engineers recommend shorter service intervals, but manufacturer management ignores their advice and slaps on long service intervals. Seems biased toward causing premature wear and having to purchase a new car sooner. Think about it.

 

I agree with "Andius" comments, but if you want to save some money and have some basic mechanical skills, at least capable of changing you own oil, have "appropriate" set of tools and "safe" means of jacking+ supporting vehicle. If you do, changing gear oil is a very simple task, Go for it
Besides being a little harder to access, this video shows the process, but it kinda fails on not having vehicle level IMO. But is really intended for the DIY individual. Most " Professionals" will do this on a lift for that reason.
Not sure about the "old wives tales", but shop manuals information and/or manufacturers recommendations, are not always the best sources, plenty of experienced/knowledgeable and just smarter individuals, solving issues and/or finding better ways, do your own research.

 

After a bit more research I found out the “your old transmission fluid is the only thing holding your transmission together “ myth mainly applies to automatic transmissions apparently.
Thank you everyone who replied!

 

myth mainly applies to automatic transmissions apparently.

Yes, a DCT transmission is not an automatic transmission, the only similarity is the gear selector.

 

I think there are only 2 truly full synthetic oils available for retail sale and they're absurdly expensive. Nearly all the "Full Synthetic" oils out there are still blends. (Nothing wrong with that)

I generally use motorcraft or mobil 1 oils, but most of the name brands are going to be fine. I've seen some anecdotal "researchers" who recommended to avoid high mileage blends as they build sludge faster.

I lean toward changing the oil more frequently than it is to buy a specific brand. Just like gasoline, base oil all comes from relatively few refineries and the individual brands add a proprietary additive blend to their branded oil for sale. Project farm on YouTube (among others) send oil samples out for identification and they seem to be quite similar with only minor differences in molecular make-up.

Overall, today's oils are superior to what was available even 20 years ago. I never would driven over 3,000 miles per oil change back then.

I do worry about the 0 weight oils. I don't think they are as effective at protecting as they are at improving mileage.