Idle Issue

I really hope that someone can help or even has experienced the same issue!

 

There is a TSB for all Focus build before 1/13/2010 that have that issue. Actualy there about 4 diferent TSB with the same issue but they are all the same.
TSB 4-24-10
TSB 5-26-16
TSB 07-9-4
TSB 10-5-11

 

ENGINE VIBRATION AT IDLE - VEHICLES BUILT ON OR BEFORE 1/13/2010
TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN
Reference Number(s): 10-5-11, Date of Issue: March 29, 2010
FORD: 2000-2010 Focus
Superceded Bulletin(s): 09-15-7, Date of Issue: August 10, 2009
Related Ref Number(s): 04-24-10, 05-26-16, 07-9-4, 08-24-9, 08-5-6, 09-15-7, 10-5-11
ARTICLE BEGINNING
This article supersedes TSB 09-15-7 to update the Service Procedure and add a production fix date.
ISSUE
Some 2000-2010 Focus vehicles built on or before 1/13/2010 may exhibit an excessive engine vibration at idle, most noticeable when the transmission is engaged in reverse. This condition may be caused by small stones, road debris, ice or snow packed/lodged in the rear engine roll restrictor.
ACTION
Inspect the rear engine roll restrictor for debris and install service shield if necessary.

 

Take it to Ford its under warranty. Even if it was built after that date it could have the same issues. If is something else let Ford figure it out. Good luck.

 

take to ford they'll fix it and you'll be back to enjoying!!

 

Thanks it appears that this has been a problem ongoing in many focus's.. I guess I am also wondering if this could also be making the idle to not be level as well... Such as the RPM guage fluctuating? Just curious if there was TSB for that as well or do you think that it could be all related... Now what are your thoughts about the banging noise that I get when going over moderate bumps. Its a crash noise almost like there is no bushing at the top of the strut or even a bad strut. It only happens on the drivers side... Is there anything out there in way of TSB's for that? Any thoughts? I like to have information as well as facts when I go to the dealer, otherwise I always get the "Its normal" answer. Thanks

 

One more thing, if I was to wait a bit till I bring it in for its oil change would like problem actually hurt the car?

 

I had the the exact same problem with my 2003 ZX5. I live in northern Alberta, Canada where the winters are pretty harsh and after driving through a ton of snow it started idling really rough and it made a REALLY bad noise and shook the whole car when I started it. Turned out to just be a build up of snow and ice underneath on "rear engine roll restrictor" as mentioned above. I took it to the car wash and sprayed the entire underneath of the engine bay, control arms etc. and saw a bunch of large peices of ice come off. When I started it right after washing, the noise upon start-up was completely gone and so was the rough idle. I couldn't believe that ice packed up in there would cause such a loud noise (I thought something was seriously wrong with the car) because I've NEVER experienced anything like that from ice build up on ANY car I've ever had before, but that's all it was.

Hope this helps

 

I'm trying to fix this issue too, but mine has thrown misfire codes. I have sprayed the throttle body out, checked vacuum lines for damage and reconnected them, and I've sprayed cleaner to try to detect vacuum leaks. I am at a loss.

 

You'd think that after seeing a code specifically directing you to a misfire, you'd start with the ignition, but at least now you've ruled out the intake...

Check your spark plugs, genius. Also, this thread is 9 years old.

 

Oh hahahahaha, I'm smart enough to do maintenance. Genius. You'd think that if someone failed to do maintenance that they probably wouldn't even bother coming here. Oooh, this thread is 9 years old, that has nothing to do with the subject. Genius.

 

SO, I came to find my EGR was the problem with my cold start rough idle. Hope this helps anyone else.

 

We are having cold start idle hunting up and down to 1500 RPM in the hot summer. It is better once it warms up but still wanders from 700 to 900.

Is this also probably the EGR, how did you test yours?

I've not looked at it yet, it has 90 K miles and we plan to do plugs, air filter and clean the throttle body. This is our automatic car.

 

I have 2010 Ford Focus SE now, prior I had a 2003 ZX5 5 speed with a Zetec and 2004 ZTS PZEV auto.. Since then I have 5 other cars. So now after going through other cars I came back to the Ford Focus which I do like very much. The issue that I am having with this new one is a rough Idle. Its rough on cold starts and after about 30 minutes or so it will smooth out, however I still feel its a bit rough even when smooother... When shifting into reverse its bad while cold and stopping at lights or stop signs the whole car tends to be vibrating. I don't know if its the PZEV engine or something else. The car has 10,089 miles on it and I bought with 9,000 miles on it... Of course when I drove it for the 1st time it was fine... That is always the way!

The problem goes like this, I start the car and the car will rev for about a minute at about 2,000 RPM and then drop to about 1500RMP and that is where I feel it starting the roughness. Then as is starts to drop closer to 2,000 RMP to 1,500 its rough and the RMP guage will flutter up and down. Then when I take off in reverse its rough and the car will vibrate. Then in drive and while driving the car is smooth.. Until coming to a stop then it will vibrate till I take off again. about 30 or so minutes later after start up the car will smooth out alot... However, the RPM guage will still show some fluctuation between 1500 and 2000 RPM and I can feel some vibration in the seat and also the seat belt on the pass side rattle aginst the plastic.Does this sound right? Is this normal? Is there a TSB / Recall about this? If anyone has had this problem did it get corrected? If corrected what was done at the dealer? Also, if you have the problem and dealing with it what did the dealer say about it?

Thanks
I am new to this and I really hope that someone can help me....

I had the same problem had to have an electrician tell me i needed a battery with my cold cranking amps starting amps and sure enough problem