Hi Y'all, does anyone have the oil and R134a specs for the 2008-2010 Focus? I need to know how many ounces of oil and how many of R134a to charge an empty system in the new cars. And is the oil the same as in the older cars, or different? I looked through the A/C thread started by Whynot but didn't see this info. Thanks in advance.
FocusRebuilder
If you're tinkering, or fixing wrecks- have you considered trying hydrocarbon refrigerants? That's what Europe is using now to replace 134, and it's legal for use in the US in cars. I was just curious to see if anyone has tried to to find out how well it works. Supposedly it gets as cool as 12 did.
yes no mods, hang on, the link is at the end of the General AC thread. I'll go fetch it.
EPA page on it, and it gives the manufacturer's registered name "Duracool" for a search.
http://www.epa.gov/Ozone/snap/refrigerants/hc-12a.html
The only thing that is different is how much you'd use in a vehicle that was designed for use with 12. In other words if you had a 92 Aerostar converted to 134, you'd want to use the 12 chart for Duracool because your system is really a 12 system. I don't remember reading how the pressures correspond to ambient temps, but I'd guess that it's really similar. It might be that the old rule (psi, AC off= ambient temp in F) will still be true.
EPA page on it, and it gives the manufacturer's registered name "Duracool" for a search.
http://www.epa.gov/Ozone/snap/refrigerants/hc-12a.html
The only thing that is different is how much you'd use in a vehicle that was designed for use with 12. In other words if you had a 92 Aerostar converted to 134, you'd want to use the 12 chart for Duracool because your system is really a 12 system. I don't remember reading how the pressures correspond to ambient temps, but I'd guess that it's really similar. It might be that the old rule (psi, AC off= ambient temp in F) will still be true.
hey guys. I am new on here and found this thread. I have a 2005 ZX4 ST, 2.3L and was wondering what the pressure should be on low/high when properly filled.
I don't have a vacuum pump but oh well.
Here's what I found online for someone whose A/C was working decent:
2007 Ford Focus SES - R134a
Outside temp was 100 degrees in the shade.
Idle RPM Reading - Idle was between 750 to 900 RPM's (hard to tell)
Low Side -54 PSI
High Side - 270 PSI
Idle RPM Reading - Raised Idle to 1500 RPM's
Low Side -50 PSI
High Side - 345 PSI
How do those numbers look to you?
I don't have a vacuum pump but oh well.
Here's what I found online for someone whose A/C was working decent:
2007 Ford Focus SES - R134a
Outside temp was 100 degrees in the shade.
Idle RPM Reading - Idle was between 750 to 900 RPM's (hard to tell)
Low Side -54 PSI
High Side - 270 PSI
Idle RPM Reading - Raised Idle to 1500 RPM's
Low Side -50 PSI
High Side - 345 PSI
How do those numbers look to you?
If you don't have a vacuum pump, don't use a vacuum pump, and the system was drained- you're screwing up. Moisture will be in the system, and moisture + refrigerant= acid. Now I don't know how strong the effect will be- it will depend on how much moisture is in there, how long it sat, or what not. Vacuum pumps can be rented from parts stores.
As far as the oil needed, it's probably the same as previous years of Foci. Close enough anyway, then go by the pressure. If you're having problems lowering your pressure, then see if cleaning the condenser will help. You'll have to remove the radiator, but if cold air is what you want- nothing is too difficult.
As far as the oil needed, it's probably the same as previous years of Foci. Close enough anyway, then go by the pressure. If you're having problems lowering your pressure, then see if cleaning the condenser will help. You'll have to remove the radiator, but if cold air is what you want- nothing is too difficult.
To add to what I wrote above DO NOT USE HYDROCARBON REFRIGERANTS! Yes it is what Europe uses, and it is more ozone friendly. It is not people friendly though. Although the flash point is lower- it's still combustible. A spark is all you need to start a fire if the concentration is high enough.
Sorry, I hadn't done enough research.
Sorry, I hadn't done enough research.
Yes, I know not using a vacuum pump is not by the book but I've been running my mother's camry like that for ... 10 years with no particularly ill effects.
I will ask around though to see if I can indeed rent a pump. I looked recently and couldnt find one.
by local parts stores, do you mean autozone, advance, etc? or some local brand stores?
I will ask around though to see if I can indeed rent a pump. I looked recently and couldnt find one.
by local parts stores, do you mean autozone, advance, etc? or some local brand stores?
Maybe the humidity is not that high there, or the system wasn't exposed for a long time. It's your car, go for it if you want.
Pressure = temp, the suction side= evaporator temp. 54 is ok for 100 in the shade, but I typically shoot for lower suction pressures. If you've got too little, it's easier to add than to subtract. There are charts available online for pressures relative to temperature for a properly charged system. Oil is just as important, and if the system is completely drained you should always replace the orifice tube before charging as well as find whatever your leak is. Usually it's an O-ring, and those are easy to replace.
Pressure = temp, the suction side= evaporator temp. 54 is ok for 100 in the shade, but I typically shoot for lower suction pressures. If you've got too little, it's easier to add than to subtract. There are charts available online for pressures relative to temperature for a properly charged system. Oil is just as important, and if the system is completely drained you should always replace the orifice tube before charging as well as find whatever your leak is. Usually it's an O-ring, and those are easy to replace.
]2008 Ford Focus - AC problem
Hi
My 2008 Ford Focus has done around 55000 miles - in April, 2013, I took it to recharge the Freon since the AC was not blowing cold anymore - once the Freon recharge was done, the AC was blew cold for a month, but it was back to square one.
The mechanic checked for leaks - found none - and at his suggestion used 'stop leak' freon - with that, it worked fine for around 2 weeks, and, the problem cropped up again.
Can anyone tell me whats happening ? or what is likely to be the problem ? its frustrating and I dont want to spend any more on recharging with stop leak freon
thanks
Hi
My 2008 Ford Focus has done around 55000 miles - in April, 2013, I took it to recharge the Freon since the AC was not blowing cold anymore - once the Freon recharge was done, the AC was blew cold for a month, but it was back to square one.
The mechanic checked for leaks - found none - and at his suggestion used 'stop leak' freon - with that, it worked fine for around 2 weeks, and, the problem cropped up again.
Can anyone tell me whats happening ? or what is likely to be the problem ? its frustrating and I dont want to spend any more on recharging with stop leak freon
thanks
Yes, a leak there.
To the guy who doesn't vacuum, sooner or later you will, I guarantee it. Water in system making acid takes time but get enough water in there to start freezing up the orifice ten minutes after you charge it and you'll be rethinking that 'no vacuum' logic. You could even have a bad day and block the orifice and blow the compressor if switches don't work fast enough to shut things down. That's a hydrolock situation buddy.
To the guy who doesn't vacuum, sooner or later you will, I guarantee it. Water in system making acid takes time but get enough water in there to start freezing up the orifice ten minutes after you charge it and you'll be rethinking that 'no vacuum' logic. You could even have a bad day and block the orifice and blow the compressor if switches don't work fast enough to shut things down. That's a hydrolock situation buddy.
22,600 miles on my 2010 Focus and AC is no longer cold
Dealer wants to charge $151 to diagnose the problem. If it's a simple fix (even for a 60-plus year old who has never done this before), I'd like to save that money and DIY. Any ideas if a simple recharge will do the trick. Note: I don't part under trees and am pretty conservative in using my AC, so can't figure out why the AC isn't cooling properly any more.
Dealer wants to charge $151 to diagnose the problem. If it's a simple fix (even for a 60-plus year old who has never done this before), I'd like to save that money and DIY. Any ideas if a simple recharge will do the trick. Note: I don't part under trees and am pretty conservative in using my AC, so can't figure out why the AC isn't cooling properly any more.
They pretty much all leak early now, it's the stupid rubber o-rings used so they can simply click the lines together on the assembly line with no tools used.
Someone at least needs to test for the possibility of a larger leak, if present, anything you do yourself could easily be undone in less than a week. In short, a small leak could get you a year or more at a time, but a bigger one could last maybe 5 minutes.
Someone at least needs to test for the possibility of a larger leak, if present, anything you do yourself could easily be undone in less than a week. In short, a small leak could get you a year or more at a time, but a bigger one could last maybe 5 minutes.
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