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'one of the many Ford cost cutting measures'

That would be hilarious if it wasn't so sad.............

I remember when they did it to Tempos too, suddenly heater cores that lasted forever were shelling out left and right and harmonic balancers/crankshft pulleys were the same way. Rock solid part, then they turn it into short-lived junk.

Half the plastics used on Contours (polystyrene molded parts used on dash pieces that hold switches?..............COM'ON NOW, get real!) either melted into misshapen lumps or turned into dust, they crumble to the touch.

You can't make it cheap enough to suit them.

I'm sure any procedure you throw onsite about that evaporator will be well received............

 

LoL that reminds me of my grand am dash. GM used this squishy material for the dash pad and glued it onto the plastic shell right where the sun hits it everyday. It peels up and curls so far that you can see under the dash pad through the windshield!

Also good news for anyone reading this, the new aftermarket evaporators that I have used look thicker and better built so hopefully after a repair you won't have to do it again.

 

I have replaced several evaporators in the 2008-2011 Focus during this summer at work (auto technician) and it seems like it is going to be a common problem with these cars as they age and get higher mileage (70k +).

Mine went out at about 70k due to leaks on the bottom 1/4 of the condenser. That area in particular has very little protection from road debris. I planned to put some aluminum screen behind the plastic grille after I replaced it. 30K miles later and I still haven't done it-- and it shows. Beat.

While I saved on labor, it was a little bit of work. The compressor wouldn't kick on while trying to fill. I finally manned up and slipped my tiny hands down to the compressor clutch wire and manually jumped it, then it engaged itself.

One thing I could never find is the filter you're supposed to replace before you vacuum down and charge, the pancake. Do you have any idea where it is? I was pulling joints apart all over the place (while replacing o-rings) trying to find it, and never did.

 

My article is referring to the evaporator inside the dash, but I have changed one condenser on these cars and it was smashed to hell from debris and it was so corroded that I had to change the high pressure line that attaches to it because it was seized.

I'm not sure why you had to jump the compressor because being under vacuum it should have sucked that freon in and kicked on, plus they don't hold much freon.

I am not aware of a factory filter. The 08-11 foci use a TXV mounted on the entrance to the evaporator instead of an orifice tube which is the little screen tube thing found inside an a/c line near the evaporator. The desiccant that absorbs moisture is inside the cylinder next to the condenser on the 08-11 and in the wheel well of the 00-07.

 

There's almost always at least a small screen filter somewhere in the system, finding it is the issue. Can be in that 'cylinder' (receiver/dryer) or often just before any metering device (the TXV).

 

I'll be watching!

 

Hello everyone, I still have not replaced my Evaporator yet, just haven't had the time. My 1st daughter was born in 2016 and we just had another born memorial day this year. I still will document the procedure when I do it.

My car has 178k miles now! Been fairly problem free, but I replaced both front wheel bearings, rf axle assy, MAF sensor, 2nd pass engine mount, and the electronic throttle body. (MAF was the idle problem, throttle body was my first guess)

 

I finally replaced the evaporator, just uploading the bulk of the picture files for now and will edit later for descriptions. I can only upload 10 pictures at a time so more posts will follow.

 

upload 2

 

upload 3

 

upload 4

 

upload 5

 

OMG those pictures. Taking out just the HVAC/Audio center panel and console is enough of a hassle. This thing goes to the junkyard before I'm pulling out the entire dash.

 

It took me 2 nights of watching the video to get it apart 150 for the parts and went back together in less than 4 hrs was hard to figure out how to get apart but there is a black man that does a very detailed r&r for the 2008-2011 ford focus which I watched and did without any problems the dealer wanted 2500 to do the work I did it for about 200 I'm parts and about 12 hrs of time some is hard to get to but I managed to get it done the man tells you every step taking apart and putting back together it was great experience and saved me a fortune also only kept me from watching tv for 3 nights but was like making 2500 for 12 hrs of work I'd do it again in a heartbeat

 

Ouch this looks so fun! No wonder someone wants $1300 to replace it on my 2008 Ford Focus SES with only 80k on it

 

re #15, I spoke too soon. I need this replaced and don't want to junk it, or a buy a new car yet. I live in an expensive area and my expensive shop said it would be "almost $3000". I'm getting another opinion and trying some ******* repairs possibly. Contrary to above pics, I found at least one video where you can unhook the steering wheel and unplug harnesses and take out the dash mostly in one piece, glovebox, radio & all.

 

yes...... it is a royal pain in the ass.

That bolt on the very front of the dash is a nightmare ... I left that sucker out on re-installation. There are a few great Utube videos.

Usually, it takes me three or four times completing a repair before I'm really comfortable with the process...... I'm never going to get comfortable with this process .... The dam dash is just one single piece ... weighting close to 75 lbs .... real fun to move around.

And after you spend the weekend busting your ass on the repair .... Ford makes it even more fun by giving you a nice idiot light on the dash .... I still have mine on ... 2 years after the repair.

Thanks Ford you suck.

Sorry I'm still messing around with the high pressure power steering hose on my 2011 ... and I'm not in a great mood.

 

Which idiot light.
Ha ha my post got censored. The word referred to the color of a neck.

 

The door ajar light in on. Usually when this is on ... you can see which door is ajar on the read out.

The system does not detail which door is ajar ... but the light stays on.

If I do leave a door ajar ... the system will still tell me which one is ajar.

 

Update on my scenario: Sometime around May I was told by a shop #1 I had a condenser leak. I self-added EZ-Chill refrigerant with leak sealer. The result was the system would be cold at first, then not, and cycled and operated erratically. Long story short, I misunderstood the readings and overcharged the system. However, between the time that I added the EZ-Chill and a visit to Shop #2 (about a month), the system was still holding the (over) charge. Shop #2 evacuated and recharged the system a couple weeks ago, added leak dye and wanted me to come back in a couple weeks. System has been cooling great. As of today, Shop #2 found no leaks. It may not last forever- but right now it would seem that the stop-leak worked! I will continue to closely monitor the system performance and check the low side pressure. For the immediate future I'm happy that I don't have to shell out for a repair that exceeds the value of the car, or buy a new car.