I got to work on this problem some late today, but did not find the problem I am having on my car yet. The answer to my own question is-> NO. A single switch can not be replaced (on the drivers side master switch assy) but the 4-switch assembly can be "opened up" and you can clean the electrical contacts with MAF or electrical contact cleaner if you crack open the switch box. More details and pics tomorrow.

Additionally, I did lots of wiring/switching tests using a multimeter (DVM) and inspected the wiring inside the door rubber boots and cleaned door connectors. I will re-test and reinspect this problem in the next few days... or maybe have to wait till next weekend.

 

Yeah that is known as the master switch. there is little metal tabs in it i believe that lose contact. one way to tell if its the switch is if sometimes when you press it the window goes down. If it goes down its the switch. if you clean it and it happens to not work later on just switch it out with a junkyard one. Can tear the junk yard one apart and use the little parts to repair urs if you want.

 

Yeah that is known as the master switch. there is little metal tabs in it i believe that lose contact...

Thanks for the ideas Fierceintent. My metal tabs and switches passed the tests I did yesterday. I will get back to it this week or this coming weekend.

Wanted to share a few pics I took yesterday. First, as described by Phestezio in that thread linked above, I found his words helpful to figure out how to remove the master switch. Now adding pictures to what he described.

to remove any of the power window or power lock switches on the door bezel simply pop out the screw cover in the middle of the handle bezel, remove that screw and gently pry behind the bezel to break it free.

Once it is free pull the door handle open and pull the bezel away from the door. Once you have it away disconnect the connectors on the back of the switch and you can remove the bezel with the switches still attached.

If you want to remove the switches from the bezel there are 2 metal spring tabs on either side of each switch, simply push them in and the switches will pull out through the front face of the bezel.

Very minor but worth noting that the last sentence of the quote above did not apply on my 2004 because my switches did not have "2 metal spring tabs on either side of each switch" nor did the master switch "pull out through the front face of the bezel." -my switch un-snapped from plastic clip retainers (by hand) and removed from the backside of the bezel.

Removed one torx screw and pried the bezel away starting at where you see screwdriver (below).


Using only your hand, reach behind the bezel and unsnap the switch from the plastic clips. Then open the door handle to get the bezel fully removed.


With switch in your hand, you can split it half by un-snapping the 6 retaining clips around it. Once inside, those metal tabs easily jump out and make you panic and say *&$#@^*. Thankfully easy to reassemble metal tabs back into slots.


BTW, the summary of the fault I am chasing is;
Front passenger window only works with Front passenger controls. Front passenger window is unresponsive if using drivers side master controls. The testing I did should have discovered the fault, but this one is sneaky and I look forward to my next at bat. Granted, I was not drinking beer so my brief sobriety my have screwed things up.

 

Luck with that, window switches & their wiring can be tricky buggers.

Haven't played with the Focus system, others I've had the joy of tracing needed the proper "Off" contacts made on the passenger side for the Driver's switch to work. This can make the apparently "good" switch the actual problem.

As if checking the suspect switch and wiring to the window not working wasn't enough trouble already...

Luck

 

...

needed the proper "Off" contacts made on the passenger side for the Driver's switch to work...

Amazing timing! I had just finished reviewing the schematic and decided my "next at bat" would test (drivers side) control signals coming in at the passenger side switch connector! I can see how a "resting position" contact inside the passenger side switch (if dirty/defective) could cause my drivers side switch problems. I hope I can disassemble/split open the passenger side switch housing too.

Thanks Sailor, you are awesome!

Edit: I did however "buz that circuit" yesterday (from the drivers side connector) while passenger switch was in rest/off and it ohm-ed out ok at the time. Compared the ohm reading to another (rear window) circuit and it was the same. Either way, I am gunna beat up that pass switch next.

Edit2: I did note passenger front motor resistance to be 4.x ohms, while passenger rear motor was 2.x ohms and decided not to act on the small difference at the time.

Edit3: That lonely 2 ohm difference may seem like nothing, but if it is a dirty connection, that dirty connection can sometimes "turn into" an open circuit when voltage & amperage is applied -> "Load induced open circuit"... Been there before and it is never a fun place to go.

 

FIXED it - !!!!

Problem: Front passenger window only works with Front passenger controls. Front passenger window is unresponsive if using drivers side master controls.

This was way too hard for something so simple.

This was a "load induced open circuit". Drivers side control signals of Voltage and Ground was good while monitoring at the passenger side connector using a DVM. However, when adding the load of the passenger side window motor -and while using the drivers side controls the Hot side would drop off.

Isolated the problem to be drivers side master switch assembly. Most people in this situation should/might replace the drivers side master switch.

I had previously cleaned the inside of the master switch with only MAF cleaner. Now I realize that I should have physically scratched and scraped the electrical contact points of the passenger side switch-> these are inside the drivers side master switch. It was not easy or simple to scratch these contact points clean, but I did it somehow.

So, got her fixed without having to buy a new master switch assembly.

Final cost = 512 hours and 1,024 (Miller Lite) beers. Who needs professionals!!?? Not me. Might have found it quicker had I been drinking a more full bodied beer.

Edit: @ FF moderators: please feel free to change this thread title, -might better serve future searches of this symptom. I should have titled this thread relating to the symptom first -my bad. Also 2004 instead of 04? Thanks.

 

My focus driver’s window has gotten where it will go up reliability but not down. I was thinking it was the switch but after putting on a new switch it still did not go down every time. The way I can get it to go down is bang the door to jar the motor. So apparently what I thought was a switch issue is actually a motor issue. I recently, within the past year, replaced the driver's window regulator/motor because it didn't work at all, so I'm kind of pissed that the new one seems to have crapped out so soon. Particularly since this regulator is the third motorized device I have bought from AutoZone that seems to be crapping out after less than a year. The other two are blend door actuators, one temp the other floor/face/defrost for a 2008 Taurus. AutoZone has recently made almost all their parts lifetime warranty and I believe these are included but they are a pain to pull out and replace especially if they are going to crap out so often.

 

...replaced the driver's window regulator/motor because it didn't work at all, so I'm kind of pissed that the new one seems to have crapped out so soon...

My drivers window regulator broke last year. Replaced mine using this Dorman...

Amazon.com: Dorman 741-874 Front Driver Side Replacement Power Window Regulator with Motor for Ford Focus: Automotive

Broke = cable and guides broke. The motor was fine, but I threw it away. Did not realize the motor could be removed/replaced at the time. Big Dummy. Whoops!

 

the one I got from autozone is dorman. advance auto and o'reilly also sell dorman. What I got was the motor regulator combo. I may get a new combo and see if I can just swap the motors then return the new regulator and old motor for my refund. Might be a bit easier....ha ha ha

 

Giving a bump and a shout out to Marde here. This is my first post, but I wanted to thank you for posting about this switch. I had nearly the exact same issue, except I could roll up the passenger side window from the master switch I just couldn't roll it down. I took my switch apart, cleaned up the contacts for that switch. I did it with a very narrow piece of 220 grit sandpaper. Worked like a charm. No more reaching over to roll down the window. Thanks.

 

Hello Jim. Most FF's post here with a desire to help others, learn from others, and this includes our hopes that our collective comments & solutions might help others in the future. This old thread was a little awkward and somewhat poorly worded, but I'm happy to hear it helped you.

The initial primary goal (for me) was testing the spider-web of window circuits with a multimeter in order to isolate exactly where the fault was. All of my basic multimeter tests passed, so that is when I realized this must be a "load induced open circuit" aka a bad/worn/corroded connection that PASSED my basic multimeter testing, but the system did not work once everything was connected. I hope you and others remember (IF you are performing electrical trouble-shooting) this very unique situation does occur in automotive and all other industries too.

I also used sandpaper in-between the window switch contact-points. Please note my other experience-> this "sandpaper" repair lasted about a year, maybe two. I did the same repair twice or was it 3 times? I recommend you apply some dielectric lube/grease ONTO the electrical contacts of the window switches after the sandpaper treatment fix... If or when there is a next-time you need to sandpaper-repair the switch contacts again-> use the lube.
-Cheers!