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Discussion starter · #21 ·
LittleCinqCoupe said:
Couple more q's:

1) Where does the red wire on the TACH (not the tach driver go)? Do I have to put a fuse in between the red wire an it's power source? I am probably reading off of the same AutoMeter instructions that you were, BTW.

2) My diagram for the tach DRIVER doesn't require a splice into the CPS. Under the heading: "Connecting to an Individual Coil System," it shows the red and red/green wires splicing into the 12 volt positive wire going to one of the coil packs. The other wires for the DRIVER go to the tach, and the other to ground. No CPS splice required?

3) Finally, how did you manage to get the wires through the firewall? I think I see where you did it (underneath the brake pedal, then behind the shock tower), but I can't see how you got it from behind the shock tower. Suggestions would be awesome!

1) the red wire from the tach goes to a power ignition source on the inside fuse panel on the car. i can get a picture for ya. and yeah they did recommend a fuze in-line BUT, its being hooked into the system by a fuse so my dad deemed the inline fuze un-nessasary.

2) on the duratec engine, theres no coil packs, thats why we have to go into the pos sensor. those directions were written for typical cars like a mustang, camero etc, im sure autometer will update them soon for the coil less systems.

3) actually, i didnt go below the brake pedel we pushed the gromet through the wall where the hood release is and then gouped it all up with silicone to seal it back up. and if you look at some of the first pictures, you can see a non-electrical taped conduit going by that red wire that goes into the fuse box in the engine bay. thats the green wire inside of that conduit going right by the shock tower.


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PICS:

heres a picture of the inside fuse panel. we didnt make it that messy. it came messy from ford [:(]

but you can see the red wire from the tach going to the 20amp yellow fuse towards the bottom with a blue connector. and then you can see the pre-existing ground i used towards the upper right.

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heres a picture of the wire goin through the fire wall. that little bit of black you see towards the right of the picture is the clutch mounting plate. and to the left of the picture is the main wire harness that goes into the front left wheel well and then into the engine bay.

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im gonna go and PM S2 now i got the pictures done [thumb]
 
why woulds you go thru all that trouble when you can get a brand new cluster at a ford delaer for 300 bucks and you can install it in 10 minutes and have the dealer program it to have the miles your car originally has at no charge
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
because this costed about half of 300$, and even though people have the tach in the cluster sometimes they still add an aftermarket tach even though they have one in the cluster, and this is one of the most searched questions, b/c of the new ignition system.

as you can see i didnt have one period. in the future i may go to a cluster so i can relieve the a-pillar of of tach duties. but i have to see how the future comes out, b/c i may build a new computer system and hold off my car for alittle bit.
 
hey did you need to buy a tach driver for the car or can you just hook it up to the ignition coil because thats what the directions for mine calls for and you wouldnt happen to live in ohio would you that would be fantastic haha [pray] [joke]
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
yes you need it b/c the new focus's with the duratec engines (like you have) and they dont have a coil.

and the tach driver takes a signal from the crank position sensor and converts it so that way the tachometer itself can use it and display the engine's RPM.


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and i didnt get a cluster b/c i wanted something that i could see alittle easier, and not having the ricer effect, hence the small size of the tach.
 
ok well that works thought i could slide by without spending more money for the tach driver but oh well i just ordered so ill live but then you never answered my other question of living in ohio
 
Hey - is it really true that you can use a cluster-with-tach from any year vehicle? I have an '05 that some idiot in the factory left the tach off of, and would like to correct that silly mistake. (I get worried, revving into high rpm's without being able to see the tach...)
 
Thanks microtonal. I was afraid that sounded too easy...
Too bad, there's a used one on ebay right now for $100 buy-now - it would cost less than buying a 3rd party tach!
 
what I did

well I just installed an aftermarket tach on my 05 duratec and I thought I would just give a brief description of what I did since even with the how to I still had to figure some stuff out.

First the tach driver....

easy enough mine had 4 wires for the signal wires a red, a black, and two uninsulated wires one silver the other copper. I taped off the two uncovered wires and spliced the other two into my CPS using two of the quick clips that come with the driver. I then mounted the driver with the zip ties and used a bit of goop on it just to make sure that it wasnt going anywhere. I then used a hole I already had made on the passenger side of the firewall to feed the green signal wire and red 12v power wire through the firewall. To make this hole I had used a 1/2 inch drill bit. I pulled back the carpet under the glove box and drilled a hole low enough to make the carpet would cover the hole (make sure your not going to hit anything in the engine bay that may be on the fire wall. As for the ground wire on the driver I just grounded it off on an existing ground on the frame of the car.

The tach...

I decided to take the cheap route and used a glowshift gauge. My friend had one and it looked pretty good and was fairly accurate. So, I thought why not. My tach had two different sets of wires one set for the tach itself (red,black,green wires) and the other set for the led back lighting of the gauge (red,black,yellow wires). I spliced the two black grounds together and grounded them on the top left screw holding the underdash fuse box. I spliced the two red wires together on the tach then added the red wire from the tach driver and connected them to fuse number 56 to give me the 12volt juice I would need when the key was in the on position. Next I pulled the clip off the back of the dimmer switch(there is a small button in the middle of the clip you push in as you pull) and used a quick clip that came with my tach driver to splice into an orange wire with a white stripe. This gives you the power you need when the light switch is in the on position. Next I connected the green wire from the tach to the green wire from the tach driver. Set the switch on the back of the tach to the 8 cylinder position as it says to due in the tach driver instructions and cranked up the car to see if it worked. It helps to cross your fingers [:)~] Mine did the first time so I shut the car off and mounted the tach to my dash with 3m double sided tape since I had no interest in drilling holes in my dash. (If using double sided tape clean your dash with something first) Thats about it time to clean up the wires and make sure you chaulk the hole you drilled in the fire wall with some other than the cheap stuff. Should be good to go tested mine and the tach is ok...it about 100rpms off at all times but never really more than that. You may want to use test mode to check and make sure its working properly. If its not check all wire connections and make sure you have a good ground on the tach driver.

I hope all this helps good luck [wrenchin]
 
great write up, i've seen similar 'how to's' suggesting splicing into the duratec's PCM plugs, but that could end up very disastrous......i have 1 question tho...1) where can i find my CPS, crank position sensor, how can i tell i have the right harness?? thanks alot!
 
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