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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey All, this post/thread will be dedicated to the topic:

How to install an Aftermarket tach on a 2.0L Duratec.

This install on my tachless zx3 took about a total of 2 weeknights, because i knew i would need alittle help from my dad whom works 7am to 7pm bout every day, so it doesnt leave that much time to do work, but if you total everything up, it took us about 4 to 5hrs. and it might seem alittle long, but we did everything to a very very high expectation, MY expectation. which stands up to high standards and 2nd to none, no exceptions.

The Parts:

Autometer 2 5/8th's 8,000 RPM limit Sport Comp Tach

Ford Racing Tach Driver - (yes i know theres a rumor and/or proof you can use a tach with the new focus ignition without the driver, but to me this felt more of an easier solution)

Various wire cutters, strippers screw drivers, and then guts, so of the stuff my dad did i would have hit him, but in this case i had to trust him. thing that made me the most upset was when he cut my crank position sensor off my car, he did this so he could splice the wires alittle easier. more on that in a min.

and heres the steps that we did to hook this up, i will pull everything as much as i can from memory so things might be alittle mixed up but hopefully you will be able to understand it.

Ok, starting i had the tach and tach driver, and the first thing i did, which i did myself was i pulled off the plastic a-pillar cover and mounted the tach to the pillar with the included screws and also used some hot glue to make sure the screws would never pull out, and i also drilled a hole in the a-pillar and used some sleeving from my previous 4-wheeler to hide the wires, check the pics below to see how well that came out, i love it, it came out so cleanly!

next the 2nd hardest part. my dad and i got under my car, and started to work on mounting the tach driver up, as stated above he cut the crank position sensor off my car (PLEASE ONLY DO THIS IF YOU HAVE ENOUGH FAITH IN YOURSELF TO BE ABLE TO MAKE SURE IT'LL WORK AFTER YOU PUT IT BACK TOGETHER, I OR MY FATHER ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU MESS YOUR CAR UP, now thats out of the way) after he cut it off, he spliced the 2 shielded wires to the sensor's wires and then back to the crank, we taped and secured it back up, looks like we were never there (part of my standards) and then my dad mounted the tach driver to the little black bottom bumper shroud (pics below)

then day number 2, while my dad was at work i bought some black conduit thats already on the car from the local parts store. and i ran the wires from the passenger side crank area around the front of the car, hiding the wires in the conduit and wrapping my conduit with the car's already in place other conduit, and then wrapping all of it tightly in electrical tape, further securing the wires and further hiding the fact that we had added anything to the car itself, also at this pointed i remounted the tach driver to the same location, but to further protect it from the elecments i wrapped it tightly also in electrical tape to seal it alittle more.

ok so now at this point, the tach is mounted and the wires are somewhat run to their final spots. and then the tach driver is mounted and the wires are also ran but not hooked up yet.

Now was the hardest part, hooking everything up to make it work. i ground the tach driver on a pre-existing ground on the car. and then left my dad to hook up the power(red wire) to a fuse section (pictured below) that provides power to the tach driver when the ignition is turned on.

after this, still waiting for my dad to come home, i decided to tare into the tach. i grounded the tach to an existing ground in the dash, and i also got the green wire (signal wire) ready to go through the firewall, and the final thing, i used a small wire tap to put the tach's white wire to its use. i un-hooked the lighting plug and tapped a wire on that so the tach's light bulb could have power and be turned on with the rest of the lights/dash lights.(also cool thing too, when i activate my alarm/de-activate my alarm, it blinks with the rest of the lights lol)

dad comes home:

ok, so now my dad is home and we can finish this project up, my dad pushed the hood release wire's gromet through the firewall and we feed the green wire into the engine bay and splice that to the green wire on the tach driver. my dad uses his volt and holy crap meter ($340.00 new [thumb] ) to find a good ignition fuse in the inside of the fuse box, and we hook up the tach's power up, and thats finished.

we test it. IT WORKS! [thumb]

we clean everything up, close the car in the garage and go to bed.

i wake up the next day, and check and tuck. wrap and clean up everything from the previous night.

i also picked up some automotive caulk black in color, and zip tied the green wire to the hood release wire and then put a bunch of the black caulk around the little hold where the gromet was pushed through so it would seal it up.

IF you need detailed pictures under the dash, where the green wire goes through or where everything is hooked up, i.e. fuses post and i can get them for ya.


i hope this helps alot of people out with this!


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Pictures, the part everyone loves! while i took pictures i also took a few exterior fun "family ford" pictures [:)] im sorry if the pictures are alittle blurry or you can make out where they are on the car, but ill explain each one as much as possible.


from the base of the windshield, you can somewhat see the little plastic black tubing covering that hides the tach wires:

Driver's View

Close up of Tach

Conduit going to the Crank Position sensor

Conduit coming from the right side of the picture and then being zip tied up to the top of the picture and then the wire going down to the tach driver itself

Best picture i could get of the tach driver without burning my fingers/camera on my hott engine when pictures where taken, its towards the bottom left, you can see its wrapped in electrical tape

the conduit coming from the tach driver going towards the driver's side, i blended this conduit in very well

overall shot of the wire's where the conduit ended and everything from the tach and tach driver got spliced and/or hooked up, cant really notice anything out of place, the way i wanted it.

the wire going into the fuse box hookup for the tach driver

that same wire shown how its hooked up in the fuse box


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hope this helps. and if anyone needs other pictures of the install, i.e. under the dash. i can try to get them [thumb]
 

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Nice job and write up.
About time someone had the balls to do this and document it.


Questions:

1.
When you say cut the CPS wires, EXACTLY at what point in the CPS wire harnest did you make the cut ?

2.
Does the tach seem to be stable(not jumpy) and accurate (with the digital tach in the Odometer in test mode) ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
microtonal said:
Nice job and write up.
About time someone had the balls to do this and document it.


Questions:

1.
When you say cut the CPS wires, EXACTLY at what point in the CPS wire harnest did you make the cut ?

2.
Does the tach seem to be stable(not jumpy) and accurate (with the digital tach in the Odometer in test mode) ?

#1: my dad pulled alittle bit of the cloth-like sleeving and electric tape away to expose the 2 wires going to the sensor, and then cut one about 1inch from the sensor on one wire and the other about 1.5 to stagger the wire's cut's and to i guess make the tap alittle stronger, we didnt use the stupid little side taps ford racing sent, we just used regular straight splicers, and twisted the tach driver wires with the main sensor wires and then then spliced it together.

#2: the tach seems very stable, doesnt jump at all and is consistant to any day/time heat/cold, i am going to test it vs the digital one in diagnostics mode


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i hope i explained it good, if you think of a sraight splicer (primarily used to attach 2 wires together to make one long wire) you can pretty much understand how we hooked it up.


ill go take a picture of some extra wire we have with some splicers to show ya [thumb]


im hopin to get this stickied, probably need a few underdash shots to add to it and it'll be a 110% thread.[^]
 

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Discussion Starter #7
heres the picture:

think of the red wires being the factory wires from ford. and the green wires are coming from the tach driver, and the bottom part of the picture is where the crank position sensor would be.
 

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You are the awesomest person to EVAR live.

My a-pillar gauge pods arrived today, and my tach shows up tomorrow. I was SO worried that it was going to be impossible, and I was going to hack up my car for nothing. Your timing is perfect!

<---One more vote to make this a sticky.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
your welcome. and ~bump~ again to try for stickie position =D
 

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Discussion Starter #12
it cost about 60$ for the tach, its not a huge tach so its cheaper, and the tach driver was 60$ and of course i paid out the butt for shipping b/c i overnighted both of them.

Lil PZEV, imma get right on that, i think tomorrow im going to take pictures under the dash so its a complete picture how to also.
 

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hey where did you get the that tach from cause i mean 60 isnt that bad at all and i dont want one of those oversized waste of space ones
 

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Discussion Starter #14
summitracing is where i got the tach and the tach driver.
 

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I put a stock 05 guage cluster(with tach) in my 05 Zx3 S from my focus St that got lemoned it was plug and play for 05's I had an 03 cluster(to do it) and it wont connect because its 4 pins either more or less(cant remeber) than the 05's just an FYI for any one who wants the tach in cluster. I can do an little mini wire up on that as a subbordinate to this one.[thumb]
 

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Discussion Starter #17
thanks.

im still trying to get un-lazy and take the last pictures and PM S2 about makin it in the HOW-TO section.
 

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Hey, doing this now with an a-pillar setup...

Where did you find the lighting plug for the dash? I.E. to run the lights for the tach.

Also, did you tape your crank position sensor back in place? If that tape ever moves or vibrates, its going to mess with your timing. I'm not bashing, I haven't even found my CPS yet. Damn thing is totally hidden from the top, and now I gots to remove a plastic sheild from the bottom.
 

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Couple more q's:

1) Where does the red wire on the TACH (not the tach driver go)? Do I have to put a fuse in between the red wire an it's power source? I am probably reading off of the same AutoMeter instructions that you were, BTW.

2) My diagram for the tach DRIVER doesn't require a splice into the CPS. Under the heading: "Connecting to an Individual Coil System," it shows the red and red/green wires splicing into the 12 volt positive wire going to one of the coil packs. The other wires for the DRIVER go to the tach, and the other to ground. No CPS splice required?

3) Finally, how did you manage to get the wires through the firewall? I think I see where you did it (underneath the brake pedal, then behind the shock tower), but I can't see how you got it from behind the shock tower. Suggestions would be awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
LittleCinqCoupe said:
Hey, doing this now with an a-pillar setup...

Where did you find the lighting plug for the dash? I.E. to run the lights for the tach.

Also, did you tape your crank position sensor back in place? If that tape ever moves or vibrates, its going to mess with your timing. I'm not bashing, I haven't even found my CPS yet. Damn thing is totally hidden from the top, and now I gots to remove a plastic sheild from the bottom.
for the lighting just pull down the fuse little "door" towards the bottom left of the dash where your knees are around. and then feal up into the dash and you'll feal like 30 wires going to the knob and dimmer for the lights on the car. and feal around on it and you can unclip it and then you can use a kind a vampire tap, one thing i should mention, but maybe its b/c i got the wrong wire, but when i dim the lights in the cabin, the tach doesnt dim. but hey, if im driving at night i need to see the tach over anything else lol

the POS sensor is wrapped from the factory and wrapped in electrical tape, and when we hooked it up we wrapped it tightly back up and zip tied the wires together on the inside of the wrap to hold everything together.

and nope it'll never move. im not exagerating when i say this but..... my dad's chriopracter said that he has so many muscles in his body they actually give him back problems. that said. my dad crimped the wires together like the picture with the red and light green wires, and the way they were crimped that way they'll never pull out.

as for the plastic shield we just kinda bent it out of the way and when we were dont it went back to its spot, plastic [:)]
 
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