How to do a Oil Change and Filter change on the 2012FF

THanks for all the advice. It will be helpful. But I am a complete rookie and I don't even know where the plug is under the car. If you or somebody who has done one themselves cause post pics that would be great. Also. Do u need a special tool to get the bottom cover off to get to the oil drain?

2012silversel said:

I don't mean to sound like a jerk so please don't interpret it that way. If you want to do basic maintenance on your car and it's available where you live, I suggest you enroll in a workshop or class at your local community college or community center on basic auto maintenance and the tools and supplies you will need. Oil changes are really simple to do and having an experienced teacher help explain and show what to do would be a better learning experience than relying on what you read here. Not that the advice or explanations here aren't accurate, it's just better to see it done, do it yourself and log some hands on before you tackle your own car. At least you will be prepared when the oil gushes out the drain hole and spills all over your garage floor. That happened to me the first time and I bet it happened to a lot of folks here their first time. Another suggestion is to visit a local service station or auto repair shop and see if they will let you observe an oil change. The drain plug and filter set up is basically the same on all cars, the only thing different on your Focus will be removing the air shield, which requires a Torx 30 driver. Good luck.

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. I did indeed look into this. My local CC doest have anything automotive classes at all[slap]. And I guess it is safety code everywhere that during oil change you have to stay in the car. But one resource I used and abuses[nutkick] was YouTube

aladdin said:

...you guys do it to ensure that the job is done perfectly and only the best product is put back in your engine.

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Yes, that is exactly why.

I just want to recommend using a torque wrench and torquing the oil plug to spec. (Anyone know what the spec is for the 2012?)

And most importantly, when using a torque wrench remember that Nm is not equal to ft-lbs. I found that one out the hard way.

Another good tip is using those cheap latex gloves so you don't get as much grime on you.

aperson9923 said:

These fourms have been so helpful for me so far about my upcoming purchase of the 2012 FF. I know it has probably been posted before but when I searched I could not find a COMPLETE oil change how to guide. Will somebody please post a step by step guide (with pics) on how to do an oil change. Thanks so much. I know I am a rookie noobie but there are others that are wondering this too![wiggle]

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I read the other posts and I found them a little confusing. I will try to help you through a step by step.
1. Purchase a set of carbon fiber ramps, a large metal or plastic oil collection pan, Torx #30 screwdriver, good shop light, 15mm box end wrench or a socket set with metric sockets included, an oil filter wrench that the handle swivels to 45 degrees, buy the smaller loop wrench, a funnel, some shop rags, rubber or single use latex gloves, 5 quarts of 5W-20 semi synthetic (that's what comes in the car) or full synthetic motor oil and a Motorcraft FL-910S oil filter, available at Wal Mart.
2. Drive your car for about 20 minutes to heat the oil, this will help it flow out easier and more will drain. You never get all of the oil out of the engine, a few ounces stay on the cylinder walls, in the bottom of the oil pan...
3. Drive the car slowly on to the ramps, be careful not to go off the end.
4. Open the hood (make sure it's not going to hit anything above) and remove the oil filler cap by turning it to the left about 3/8 of a turn. I believe this helps drain the oil by allowing air to enter, maybe it does, maybe it doesn't, but it make me feel good. I have a piece of thick mil plastic I put down on the floor. Light your work area under the car and slide under the car. Using the Torx driver, remove the 8 screws holding the air shield. Slide it back slightly and it will drop, use both hands. Don't worry it's very light. Move the shield from under the car and make sure you put the screws in a safe place.
5. Find the oil drain plug. It is in the center rear of the oil pan (see pic posted earlier, thanks CourtneyNYC). Place the oil collection pan under the drain plug. Make sure you have the front of the pan under the drain hole and the back of the pan further back. When you pull the plug, oil is going to gush out about 8 to 10 inches, (that's where I made my first mistake about 39 years ago). Loosen the drain plug slightly. Remember rightsy tightsy, leftsy loosey, or, turning to the right tightens the bolt, left loosens it. If the bolt doesn't start to loosen, check to make sure you're turning it the correct way, as mentioned before, you can break the bolt head off. At this point only loosen the drain plug slightly so it can be turned by hand.
6. With your rubber glove on, turn the drain plug out slowly. Oil will begin to drip, flow slightly and when it unscrews all the way, this is when the hot oil will gush, (this is why I like thick rubber gloves) pull your hand out of the way fast so the oil doesn't splash off your glove or just drop the plug in the oil collection pan, you can fish it out later.
7. I like to let the oil drain for 30 minutes, that might be excessive, but it's how I do it.
8. Locate the oil filter (again see photo). As mentioned before the factory filter may be on really tight. Swivel your filter wrench so the handle is at a right angle to the loop. Think about which direction you will need to turn it off to the left and place the loop over the filter. Use both hands if needed to tighten the loop around the filter and give the handle enough space to turn about 1/4 turn. Again, all you have to do it loosen it enough to be able to turn it by hand. By this time the oil pan should have stopped flowing and only dripping. If it's large enough, carefully pull the collection pan (hot oil sloshes easily) so it's still under the drain hole and under the filter. You may have to wait until the drain plug is back in to move the collection pan under the filter. I have a collection pan and a small dish pan for under the filter.
9. With your rubber glove on, slowly begin turning the oil filter. Oil will begin to spill out from the top of the filter. Turn it off about 1.5 rotations and let that oil drain into the pan. After it stops draining, turn the filter about 8 or 10 rotations until it's all the way off. Be careful here because the filter will be slippery and easy to drop, also try to keep the top of the filter as level as possible because oil will spill out. Place the filter open end down in the collection pan. Check the area where the oil filter seats with the siphon tube to make sure the old filter gasket didn't separate from the old filter and is still attached. Fish out the drain plug if it dropped in the collection pan, wipe it off and make sure the plug is clean.
10. After a sufficient draining time, clean any oil from around the drain area, wipe off the drain plug and now this is very important, screw the oil drain plug back in until it's finger tight. Make sure it's threaded on straight and not cross threaded. Carefully slide the oil collection pan out so there's no chance of bumping or kicking it. Tighten the oil drain plug snugly and don't over tighten.
11. Take some clean oil and moisten the new filter's rubber gasket using your finger. With a lint free rag clean the filter area. Turn the new oil filter on the round threaded siphon tube only until the gasket seats with the metal. Visually note the lettering in front of you and turn the filter by hand 3/4 of a turn, maybe a little more, but not much more. Replace the air shield making sure you don't over tighten the screws. Remove any tools, lights, rags or friends from under the car. Now you are done under the car. Do not start the car yet. Leave it on the ramps.
12. Place your funnel in to the filler hole. Fill with 5 quarts of new oil. (Thanks to my obsessive compulsive tendencies, I have found to get the oil to perfectly at the top of the cross hatching on the dip stick it takes 5 quarts and 4 ounces. Don't worry, I'll be OK someday). Filling with 5 quarts is just fine, that takes it to about 1/8" below the top of the cross hatching. Anywhere within the cross hatched area is OK. Replace the filler cap and turn so it's in and fully seated. Back in the 70's my brother got Midas to buy him a new engine because they neglected to replace the filler cap. The cap was found on a work bench in their shop.
13. Start the car. At this point you will see the oil light come on and you may hear some knocking noise. That's normal, it takes a second for the new oil to flow into the engine. Close the hood and carefully back off the ramps. Let the engine run for a few minutes and with a flashlight look down at the filter from behind the radiator (careful not to touch the turning fan blades) to check for leaks at the filter and look under the car at the drain plug. One thing I do is drive for a little bit, park the car and come out in an hour or so to check the garage floor for drips and look at the filter. Check the oil level on the dip stick.
I keep 1 gallon plastic jugs from windshield wash to store the oil until I take it to the recycling center. Place a absorbent rag or old towel under the jug and use your funnel to pour the oil into the jug, once again be careful, it can get away from you very easily. Prop the old filter in the funnel to drain the oil into the jug.
Well, I think that’s it. I hope that helps, good luck.
Other Members, if I forgot anything, please feel free to add info.