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Hatch won't open with fob or dash button? possible fix...

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1tuffz

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
2 weeks ago my hatch would not open. i can hear the relay clicking behind the glovebox but not dice. to make matters worse my key never worked [but no big deal since the dash button & fob did the job].

so, i check the forums, fuses and such, climb in the back and using a screwdriver push on the release latch.

next, i remove the latch assy-no issues that i find, cant' figure it out.

call steve at tousley ford-order a new latch assembly, new lock assembly [pre-set to my key via my vin]. it arrives today, i install it and...nothing. electric release still no worky.

i peel back the rubber accordian looking boot that is between the hatch and body and...find one wire with exposed copper, 3 that are cracked and 1 completely broken. splice, tape and repair now it all works.

wanted to give anyone here with the same problem a fix. i would also suggest electrical taping the wires so they no longer chafe within the rubber sheath.

figured i saved a couple hundred doing it myself between the dealer labor hours and price increase on the parts i purchased with our nice discount from steve.
 
#2 ·
Thanks for the advice. My hatch is doing the same thing (2005 ZX5), and I'd like to try this remedy, but I can't even get the hatch to open with my key. It's strange how the day before everything was fine, and now my key fob/dash button don't work (I'm hearing the same click behind the glovebox) and when I try opening the hatch with my key, it "pops" open part of the way...sort of like when you go to close the hatch and it bounces back- it's "latched" but not completely closed. I've tried crawling into the back and prying the latch open with a screwdriver, but it won't budge.

Has anyone else had this issue? Not being able to open the hatch is becoming a real pain.
 
#3 ·
TNF_Focus said:
Has anyone else had this issue? Not being able to open the hatch is becoming a real pain.
Click to expand...
Yes. In your case, because you can hear the click in the footwell where the central lock module is, the problem is likely a failed hatch release mechanism itself, probably not the wiring, unlike the original poster. It's a non-serviceable dealer part. The solenoid that controls the lock mechanism is jammed or broken.
Once you do get it open, you need to remove the hatch trim and replace the mechanism and lock cylinder. Not a difficult job; the lock cylinder swap can be time consuming.
Sorry, can't help you with any suggestions on getting it open other than using brute force; the mechanism likely need replacing anyway so no fear of breaking it.
 
#4 ·
You know, on my car there is a button located under the hatch pull on the outside of the car. It's just to the right of one of the license lights. You just have to stick your head under there to see it. IDK about hatches though, but I'd assume there would be one, and as long as the power to the hatch is good- that should work.

I'm surprised mine hasn't given out yet with 6 years and 130k miles.
 
#9 ·
Hi TNF_Focus,

That does sound reasonable, but you may want to consider asking your dealer for an itemized price breakdown so you feel more comfortable with the cost.

~Natasha
 
#10 ·
So I called a different dealership (near my office) and they quoted me $110. I got the part and just simply used a bigger screwdriver to pry open the hatch, which worked. Installed the new mechanism, and now my hatch opens with my key...but the key fob and dash button still won't work. The wiring to the mechanism looked good...the car only has 50k on it. Any thoughts of what else it could be? When I press the key fob, I'm still hearing a "click" behind my glove box.
 
#11 ·
The usual fix for the dash button is to replace the switch. You can test it by pulling the switch and bridging the contacts. If that's it, try cleaning the contacts first. Switch failure is fairly common at higher mileages.
For the RKE (remote keyless entry), I recall there are two lock mechanisms - one for use with RKE, one without. Make sure you have the right part first.
You also may have to reprogram your key fob...not sure on that.

Also did you examine the wiring in the hatch umbilical between the hinges? Perhaps that's what caused ultimate failure of the locking mechanism. You may have multiple related problems: broken mechanism, chafed wiring and broken dash button.
 
#12 ·
TNF_Focus said:
Thanks for the advice. My hatch is doing the same thing (2005 ZX5), and I'd like to try this remedy, but I can't even get the hatch to open with my key. It's strange how the day before everything was fine, and now my key fob/dash button don't work (I'm hearing the same click behind the glovebox) and when I try opening the hatch with my key, it "pops" open part of the way...sort of like when you go to close the hatch and it bounces back- it's "latched" but not completely closed. I've tried crawling into the back and prying the latch open with a screwdriver, but it won't budge.

Has anyone else had this issue? Not being able to open the hatch is becoming a real pain.
Click to expand...
i popped open a focus hatch with a screw driver at a junkyard that didnt have the key.... my key rarely works in my hatch and ive had the whole thing replaced once. i too had cracked and exposed wires in teh hatch. but my button still works.
 
#13 ·
Same problem

I've got the same issue. It was the first thing to go before I found the cracked wiring in the rubber boot above the lift gate. The wiring insulation was cracked and they shorted and actually melted a few of the wires together. Everything worked fine when I got the car.

At this point I had none of the following:
Hatch release (key FOB or button on the hatch or button on the dash)
Rear defrost
Rear wiper

Additionally, my door ajar light was on constantly and the upper brake light was shorting out my stop lamp circuit (not safe!!!). This is when I decided it needed fixing ASAP.

I soldered/heat shrank all broken wiring and replaced the severely damaged wires. VIOLA! I had rear wiper, defrost, brake lights and the door ajar light is gone. BUT STILL NO HATCH RELEASE!!! I can hear the relay click when I push the key FOB or the button on the dash. Luckily for me the key will still open it.

Is it possible that the release mechanism was damaged when the wires started shorting everything out?
 
#14 · (Edited)
earl2011 said:
Is it possible that the release mechanism was damaged when the wires started shorting everything out?
Click to expand...
The usual failure is the release arm solenoid jams - due to wear with age, I'm guessing. Lack of use due to the faulty wiring is the more probable culprit rather than the wiring itself but anything is possible.

You can try testing the circuit with a multimeter to see if the mechanism is indeed faulty.

Some detail in this thread:
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=217346

Wagon wiring diagram:

Image
 
#15 ·
After I replaced the hatch locking mechanism, I wasn't exactly motivated to figure out the key FOB or the dash button issue (I just needed to be able to open the hatch) but now I've got some time to look into it. Additionally, my rear wiper decided to stop working as well (and it's just beginning to rain here in CA). I checked the wiring inside the rubber boot that connects the hatch to the body, and everything looked like it was in good shape. Kind of stumped on this one...I still hear the "click" when I press the hatch release button, and I hear a faint electronic noise when I try the rear wiper...could it be a fuse? or a relay?
 
#16 · (Edited)
I have the 2007 Focus wagon. The rear wiper stopped working last winter and now the electric rear hatch release won't work.

Apparently there is a know issue with the wire in the wiring harness to the hatch failing due to breakage, deterioration of the insulation etc.

I suspect this may be my problem, also. I will disconnect the wiring boot at the top of the hatch opening and see if I can see a problem.

Ford apparently won't fix the harness, at their expense.

There is an open investigation by Transport Canada for this issue. I have filled an online report of my problem with Transport Canada.

Bill

Additional - exposed the wiring in the rubber boot. Found 3 broken wires, which i repaired by splicing in an additional length of wire.
Also there were 4 or 5 additional wires that had the insulation covering broken in numerous places, with bare copper wiring exposed. I wrapped electrical tape around the areas of broken insulation.

My rear wiper motor now works and the electric tailgate latch now works from the keyfob, again. :)



1tuffz said:
2 weeks ago my hatch would not open. i can hear the relay clicking behind the glovebox but not dice. to make matters worse my key never worked [but no big deal since the dash button & fob did the job].

so, i check the forums, fuses and such, climb in the back and using a screwdriver push on the release latch.

next, i remove the latch assy-no issues that i find, cant' figure it out.

call steve at tousley ford-order a new latch assembly, new lock assembly [pre-set to my key via my vin]. it arrives today, i install it and...nothing. electric release still no worky.

i peel back the rubber accordian looking boot that is between the hatch and body and...find one wire with exposed copper, 3 that are cracked and 1 completely broken. splice, tape and repair now it all works.

wanted to give anyone here with the same problem a fix. i would also suggest electrical taping the wires so they no longer chafe within the rubber sheath.

figured i saved a couple hundred doing it myself between the dealer labor hours and price increase on the parts i purchased with our nice discount from steve.
Click to expand...
 
#17 ·
1tuffz said:
2 weeks ago my hatch would not open. i can hear the relay clicking behind the glovebox but not dice. to make matters worse my key never worked [but no big deal since the dash button & fob did the job].

so, i check the forums, fuses and such, climb in the back and using a screwdriver push on the release latch.

next, i remove the latch assy-no issues that i find, cant' figure it out.

call steve at tousley ford-order a new latch assembly, new lock assembly [pre-set to my key via my vin]. it arrives today, i install it and...nothing. electric release still no worky.

i peel back the rubber accordian looking boot that is between the hatch and body and...find one wire with exposed copper, 3 that are cracked and 1 completely broken. splice, tape and repair now it all works.

wanted to give anyone here with the same problem a fix. i would also suggest electrical taping the wires so they no longer chafe within the rubber sheath.

figured i saved a couple hundred doing it myself between the dealer labor hours and price increase on the parts i purchased with our nice discount from steve.
Click to expand...
This is EXACTLY what my '03 ZX5 did, white wire broken off, others had cracked insulation. Spliced and taped, all is well. Thanks for the tip!!!![ffrocks]

Greg
 
#18 ·
Wow... thanks for the info... never thought the wires would break so easy... what was Ford thinking?

popped open the tailgate boot on my wagon to find that 8 of the 10 wires were completely broken and the other two had cracked insulation... there was no slack at all in these wires, so I cut them all and added about 8 inched of wire to each, taped the bundle and stuffed the excess in the tailgate while making sure there was slack.

Everything worked except the wiper, which had blown the fuse when the power leads shorted out. All is working! Thanks again.
 
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