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mini_racer

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So what seems to be the consensus on the top Half shaft assembly to get? While price is a factor, it is not the only thing to consider. A few of the options include:
1. Best price from Ford is still >$200
2. From Autozone I think they only have Duralast for $60ea
3. Advance Auto has GSP for $70, and Fenco for $60
4. I even found some on Amazon A1 Cardone for $56

So, what do we like?
 
#2 ·
I like local rebuilders myself. Generally much lower cost than your parts stores, same warranty, and you get someone who can look you in the face and say "I rebuild that".

All use the same parts, so no real difference. Now some of the cheaper ones from parts stores could use inferior parts- take your chance there. A local rebuilder offering a warranty won't use inferior parts- they've already had those come back under warranty. It's simply not cost effective.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Hmmm, A local builder is a decent option. I will have to do some searches to see if I can find any local rebuilders close to me. I might even have to use the phone book..........Oh the horrors.....so primitive!
 
#4 ·
^^ You will have to let your fingers do the walking. These kind of shops don't rely on walk-ins for business. They already have clients in all the local shops. I doubt very seriously if one of them has a web page. I have lately become discouraged with internet pricing anyway since I searched for Honda PCV's for a friend's car, found $12-20 parts online, and a $3.50 part at the parts store. It was one of the same manufacturers as advertised online at those discount parts stores. Never be so lazy that you don't search all your options.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Ok, I have another couple of related questions please....................
1. Haynes indicates the torque spec for the spindle nut to be 173 ft lbs. However, the GSP halfshafts I bought have a 290 ft lbs torque spec. How do I reconcile this? I am inclined to go with the GSP stated spec, but 290 seems huge. Also, they did come with new/different styled spindle nuts. Maybe the spec difference is specific to the nut?

2. Neither Autozone or Advance Auto has or can get the seals where the halfshafts enter the transaxle. I wanted to change these seals as a preventative measure, but I am surprised that it is so difficult to get them. Comments/recommendations?

Thanks...................
 
#6 ·
mini_racer said:
Ok, I have another couple of related questions please....................
1. Haynes indicates the torque spec for the spindle nut to be 173 ft lbs. However, the GSP halfshafts I bought have a 290 ft lbs torque spec. How do I reconcile this? I am inclined to go with the GSP stated spec, but 290 seems huge. Also, they did come with new/different styled spindle nuts. Maybe the spec difference is specific to the nut?

2. Neither Autozone or Advance Auto has or can get the seals where the halfshafts enter the transaxle. I wanted to change these seals as a preventative measure, but I am surprised that it is so difficult to get them. Comments/recommendations?

Thanks...................
Click to expand...
1. I would go with the torque from the part suplier.

2. Go to the dealer for the seal.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
1. Yeah, following the specific manufacturer spec seems like the way to go. Now, I need to borrow a torque wrench that goes up that high, 290 ft lbs damn! Mine maxes out at 150 ft lbs.

2. Good suggestion on the seals, the dealer is always a great fall back plan. Actually I buy plenty stuff from the dealer anyway.

3. Got another related one. Since the half shafts are getting replaced, might as well change the auto transaxle filter/fluid and as such the pan seal is in question.
- Haynes indicates using an RTV gasket maker. So, hard gasket, rubber or otherwise.
- I bought the filter from Ford, and it came as just the filter with no gasket
- The auto parts stores sell the filter as a kit with a rubber gasket.
I guess I will find out what I have when I take it apart, but I am trying to collect all of the required parts before I take it out of service.
So, which is it, is there a hard gasket or do we use RTV ???
 
#8 ·
That torque reference might be for a castle nut. See what they supply you with. If it's one of those crushed nuts- I wouldn't go past what Ford says for fear of stripping it. The metal doesn't look as hard as what large castle nuts were made out of. 290 is VW axle nut crazy, you'll need to sit a truck on top of a 10' long rigid pipe to remove it.

As far as the discrepancy between Ford and parts suppliers when it comes to the trans filter- that's up to you. Personally, I'd rather have the rubber gasket, you'll find RTV on it from the factory because that's how Ford does it. I use Permatex Indian Head Gasket Tack to glue the gasket down to the pan, then put the pan on, but you likely already know that since you seem to know enough about parts. I'm a bit surprised you asked this question anyway [scratch]
 
#9 ·
mini_racer said:
Ok, I have another couple of related questions please....................
1. Haynes indicates the torque spec for the spindle nut to be 173 ft lbs. However, the GSP halfshafts I bought have a 290 ft lbs torque spec. How do I reconcile this? I am inclined to go with the GSP stated spec, but 290 seems huge. Also, they did come with new/different styled spindle nuts. Maybe the spec difference is specific to the nut?
.
Click to expand...
FYI
Actually Haynes quotes it as:
Driveaxle/hub nut
Models through 2001 173 ft-lbs
2002 and later models 233 ft-lbs

173 ft-lbs is also listed for the rear hub nut.

Most 1/2" torque wrenches max out at 250 ft-lbs. You might have difficulty getting/borrowing a DIY torque wrench that goes that to 290 ft-lbs.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
whynotthinkwhynot said:
That torque reference might be for a castle nut. See what they supply you with. If it's one of those crushed nuts- I wouldn't go past what Ford says for fear of stripping it. The metal doesn't look as hard as what large castle nuts were made out of. 290 is VW axle nut crazy, you'll need to sit a truck on top of a 10' long rigid pipe to remove it.
When I think of castle nut I think of cotter pin style, and what was supplied are not castle nuts. The nut is self locking via three equal spaced crimps on rather indentation in the smooth collar at the top of the nut. I would call it a crushed nut. The 290 value came from the Advance auto website on this product, I just found some info that came with the half shaft and it indicates to follow the vehicle manufacturer torque specification, now that makes sense. So, by following vehicle manufacturer spec you are also following the part manufacturer spec, perfect. Haynes sez 173 ft lbs, so that is it, unless someone tells me that Haynes is not following Ford. (

As far as the discrepancy between Ford and parts suppliers when it comes to the trans filter- that's up to you. Personally, I'd rather have the rubber gasket, you'll find RTV on it from the factory because that's how Ford does it. I use Permatex Indian Head Gasket Tack to glue the gasket down to the pan, then put the pan on, but you likely already know that since you seem to know enough about parts. I'm a bit surprised you asked this question anyway [scratch]
Click to expand...
I have not taken mine apart yet, so I really dont' know what I have. Haynes sez no gasket, so that tells me Ford does not use a gasket, but I just looked on one of the online OEM parts websites and did finally find a gasket, so that is a little contradictory. Also, if a gasket is to be used, I would have expected the filter to come as a kit with the gasket from Ford, as was the case from the local auto parts store. I am in agreement with you on the 'tack down a rubber gasket' method. Already ordered in fact.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
BC_ZX3 said:
FYI
Actually Haynes quotes it as:
Driveaxle/hub nut
Models through 2001 173 ft-lbs
2002 and later models 233 ft-lbs

173 ft-lbs is also listed for the rear hub nut.
Yes, exactly! And with my newfound info from GSP (the halfshaft manufacturer) 173 ft-lbs is all I need. The 290 was just an incorrect value listed by Advance Auto.

Most 1/2" torque wrenches max out at 250 ft-lbs. You might have difficulty getting/borrowing a DIY torque wrench that goes that to 290 ft-lbs.
I think I would have had plenty difficulty trying to find something I could borrow that goes up to 290, you are absolutely correct..
Click to expand...
173 I can handle and easily accept, but 290 is just crazy!
 
#13 ·
mini_racer said:
173 I can handle and easily accept, but 290 is just crazy!
Click to expand...
Depends on the nut and threads.

Most 3/4 drive torque wrenches will go 300lb.

I once did a VW flywheel nut with a long breaker and a 4' pipe.LOL
 
#17 ·
BC_ZX3 said:
You risk breaking the socket doing that. Ask me how I know. [:)] I still have the scar. lol
Click to expand...
Get a better socket.

I wouln't go over 150lbs with most consumer tools, and the cheapest I buy is Craftsman. Thats before Kmart Craftsman.

A good 3/4 drive should go 300lbs.
 
#19 ·
mini_racer said:
I have plenty of Craftsman tools myself, but I am not familiar with the term 'Kmart Craftsman'......please explain. And yes, I know that Kmart is part of the Sears family.
Click to expand...

They now sell Craftsman at Kmart and not all the tools are top quallity.
 
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