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bcg187

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. Ive had focus for a few months now and i need some help on the issues im having. First off. The rough idle issue. When i first start mine. it runs fine for a min or 2, then the idle drops badly and it starts misfiring. The motor will run like that for a min or 2 then fire right back up to normal idle, full power. If i jump in the car and drive off right away once i get down the street it will do the same exact thing. It feels to me 1 cyl isnt firing.. So, Evertime i have to go somewhere i have to let it warm up. Once its warm it runs great. It will do that misfire just once for the 2 mintues. other than that it runs great. I did pull the idle control valve off as suggested here. It helped with a smooth idle but it still acts funny. I did notice i have a breather on my valve cover and its blowing little oil onto my coilpack? same issue or another? Also, When its doing the rough idle i seem to not have power brakes either. I think my master cly is slowly going out.
Ok second. Is it just mine or is the steering on these cars super touchy? I have to use both hands on the wheel when i drive. My balljoints and all my suspension feels tight. Is it maybe the tires? They are fierce instinct all seasons. I do know it has a special gearbox but man my shit is touchy..
Third issue just a pita. I dont think my lock is disengaging my door handle all the way. I have to yank my door open. Is there a adjustment in the door?
Fourth. The guy that had it before me slammed it between gears and made the shifter sloppy. The linkage on the trans is fine. I did read the write up on the bushings so i know what to do with that.
I really love this little car. It surprises alot of people when i pop the hood. Is there a good site for parts for these cars? Id love to get a roof rack for mine and a new hood.
Mine also has the turn signals in the grill? Ive seen some without them. Is that a aftermarket grill? I also have heated side mirrors but not heated seats and i dont have a sunroof.. Im not sure if it had a system in it or not. Theres no sub box and i dont have rear speakers? How big is that little hole for the back speakers? it looks tiny..
Theres also a zx3 at my local junkyard with a full custom flowmaster exhaust with 3 inch pipe. Will it still fit? Should i grab it? i could get it for about 80 bucks.
Really like the site guys. I search on it alot but thought id open my mouth for once. Thanks for all the help!
 
Yes the exhaust will fit. You can get a Euro grill without turn signals. Opening doors is hard. Same on my SVT. Dont know why you have a breather on valve cover. Any CEL. You might be Loosing vacuum without the hose that is supposed to go to breather box.

Most important when was timing belt done Last.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks. Im getting ready to do the timing belt in the next few weeks. Does anyone know where to buy the camshaft lock tools? No cel lights except o2 sensor. I bought a real time ob2 scanner just to watch the vacuum guage. It seems fine from what i see. The car does have a cold air intake on it so they put a breather on the valve cover. I have read these cars prefer the orig intake system.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks Felix Ill order it right away!
So it doesnt have a cold air intake. They kept the hoses but removed the airbox and put a cold air intake on the end of the hose. I dont see anywhere on the intake hose to attach the breather line to? Any ideas?
I pulled the timing cover yesterday and the belt seems fine, i was told it was replaced and someone was def in there at some time. Rolling at 125k so i need to do it soon.
I always had a feeling the stutter was from the cold air intake..
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I have plenty of pics if someone can host them for me. I was also told in has a exhaust manifold on it, its wrapped in heat wrap. To me, it looks stock. Does aftermarket still have holes in it for a heat sheild? He said thats why the o2 sensor doesnt work. Im starting to think its a stock manifold with a bad o2 sensor, but what i can see there is no 02 sensor on the front.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I thought it was a factory header. ugh ill have to look for a 02 sensor bung.
I do love the bluetooth ob2 scanner. Its pretty cool to see all the gauges. oh, on that, is it normal for the oil temp to barely register? Mine does work but the temp only really rises until im sitting in hot traffic.
 
The timing kit can also be bought at Napa, and I'm sure a couple other parts stores sell them. The upstream O2 is right where the header meets the CAT, on top of the exhaust, right by the oil pan. Not a fun one to get to, just did mine about a month ago.

Any codes?

Here's a test for you, with your scanner monitor open/closed loop, guarantee you after the car starts to get warm it goes into closed loop, runs terrible because the O2 is bad, then goes back to open loop and runs good.

You have rear speakers, just above the little pockets by the rear seats. Some come with a stock sub, if you do have it it's in the left side of the hatch area, by the light
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Bryon You hit it on the head! It does show thats its in closed loop system from bank 1. I regaped the plugs the other day and it doesnt stutter as bad as it did. its good enough that i dont have to slow down in traffic.
I also noticed this morning that at idle or no load on the engine its reading 25 lbs/kg vacuum, but when i press the throttle it drops to 15. Shouldnt my vacuum go up? Thats a sure sign theres a leak doesnt it?
So im guessing between the vacuum leaks and the 02 sensor that this is my stuttering problem. If it goes further im expecting the intake loose or intake gaskets bad.
Im going to replace the o2 sensor this weekend. Ill let yall know how it goes. Thanks alot!
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Yup the guy striped the system before he sold it to me. Ive pulled the rear panels off. Does anyone know what size speaker goes back there? Sub was also gone and i dont have a trunk light, i just had to buy a push button light ..
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the heads up on napa too. I was worried i was going to get the wrong belt so i was going to order offline but i like napa. I looked up the camshaft lock. They have them on amazon for 45 bucks. i was expecting 2 bolts that go in the block, but the show a slide bar and a bolt lock. Im guessin thats it.
 
No. Vacuum is at its highest at idle with no load. As you press the gas you are allowing more air to enter the intake, thus lowering the vacuum.

The timing kit is a bar for the end of the cams and a pin for the crank that screws in the block. Friend of mine got it for $24, don't know where but look around a little before spending $45.

About the timing belt, OEM is best but the Gates kit you would get from Napa is ok, at least it's been perfectly fine on my car.

5x7 or 6x8 on speakers, same as the front. I put 4 6x8 infinity references in my car a couple months ago, they have been fantastic.

O2 sensor, motorcraft/Ford ONLY or you will be putting another new one in. Got mine off of Amazon for $36.
 
Belt is less of a worry, its the tensioner. the aftermarket timing tensioners are usually junk and have been a direct cause of a few failures. not a lot, but a few.

I go Gates Racing belt, OEM Tensioner, what ever for idler (OEM or aftermarket). Do NOT use Gold Coast Idler, the clearances are not enough and you need to machine / clearance the metal timing cover otherwise it will bind.
 
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