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fighterbandit1200

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2015 ST 3 Magnetic metallic, bolt ons & E30 most of the time
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514 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well got the clutch done & put back together re-set the linkages, bite is real low though like in the first 1/4 of travel and the pedal feels so light and easy (almost stalled it a few times) compared to how it was used to be , almost painful , no signs of slippage but it just seems dull like real slow to spin up and dont wanna go like it used to , how long should the break in be and will it make a difference in 2-300 mile , 2nd there is a really small leak seems to be coming off the bottom of the bell housing where it bolts up, dont know if the two are connected or not ? , guess i should jack it up n look but this thing is wearing me down with its negatives i got to have a break from it , so is the light pedal, low bite & lack of go connected ,
 
Some report low bite as normal for them, I got it only initially on replacing the master cylinder - pumped up to normal soon.

Drip is a worry, need to look at it to see what kind of fluid. Any leaks when bleeding? Like not having the hose on the screw all the time? That could let fluid down into the housing to drip out.
 
had a 2nd look its deff trans fluid , all bolts are tight, very slight drip between the bell housing & the shim plate thingy ??
Sheet, really needs to be redone then.

Gotta check the slave cylinder, some replacements need sealant because of no O-ring - gotta have one or the other to keep the fluid in the trans..

Extra care needed with installation of a used one, doesn't have the break strap to prevent it pushing out. That doesn't pop until after installed/bled when new.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Sheet, really needs to be redone then.

Gotta check the slave cylinder, some replacements need sealant because of no O-ring - gotta have one or the other to keep the fluid in the trans..

Extra care needed with installation of a used one, doesn't have the break strap to prevent it pushing out. That doesn't pop until after installed/bled when new.
i thought the luk rep set was plug n play ,i didnt do the install i was just the gofer that got to roll around under the car for a day & 1/2 [:(] so you think slave seal ,whats the break strap ?? my friend mounted the slave while i cleaned up the block face
 
Seen it posted for duratecs & I bet SVT's are similar - many of the new clyinders are set up for sealant and don't have an O-ring seal.

Gotta have SOMETHING to keep the oil from seeping through the joint.

Break strap is a plastic tape that holds the piston in, marked to NOT remove before installation. Once your system is bled and you push on the pedal it pops that so it can move out and do it's job. Without that you have to make SURE it's in place, and def. not hook up the hose until it's all bolted together.
 
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