Hello everyone, I am new to this forum and really need some help!! I recently bought a 2001 Ford Focus SE, and it idles real rough.. Runs fine at higher speeds but soon as I lay off the gas and press it again, shake shake gobble google thing runs rough. I bought the car yesterday morning (sat July 13th) and today I went to advanced auto parts and got some goodies for the car. Idle control valve, throttle position sensor, Pcv hose (was closed up) thinking that would take car of the most of the rough idle.. And yes the car dies with the ac is turned on. So I installed all these parts and changed oil and other nick nacks, and now the car is running worse!! NOW IT WON'T STAY ON AT ALL!!!! It takes a couple of try's to get it even started. I've googled and googled with no luck. PLEASE Can anyone help me??? Thank you
Vehicle will not stay running unless I give it gas..
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Dmusick
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Sorry I have not read very much of this thread, but I wanted to share a Focus problem I had, and it was almost exactly like yours (the one you posted about on page 4, not the OP). This problem popped up right after I bought my first Focus about 4 months ago.
Idle was ok in Park, but sometimes too high in Drive (not always). Because of the high idle, it would not downshift fast enough when coming to a stop.
The high idle resulted in an undesired cruise control effect; I could cruise about 30 mph without touching the gas pedal.
While accelerating and going from full stop to about 45mph, the car had an un-commanded RPM jump! I immediately switched from Drive to Neutral and the RPMs went even higher! In a split-second panic, I punched the throttle pedal all the way to the floor, and the RPM came back to normal. <yeah, it scared me> dropped it back to Drive and all was good for this trip.
After learning about this type of problem here at Focus Fanatics, I removed my Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). While looking very carefully at the plunger inside the IACV, I found a very small piece of rubber debris that was pinched between the plunger seal and the IACV body. When I found it, I thought NO WAY this tiny thing is my problem!!??!! At the same time I was happy thinking the debris COULD BE IT!!??!!
I removed the debris and problem was gone! I was really happy to get that crazy idle problem fixed without having to buy parts. Removing the IACV on my Duratec engine was very easy.
Idle was ok in Park, but sometimes too high in Drive (not always). Because of the high idle, it would not downshift fast enough when coming to a stop.
The high idle resulted in an undesired cruise control effect; I could cruise about 30 mph without touching the gas pedal.
While accelerating and going from full stop to about 45mph, the car had an un-commanded RPM jump! I immediately switched from Drive to Neutral and the RPMs went even higher! In a split-second panic, I punched the throttle pedal all the way to the floor, and the RPM came back to normal. <yeah, it scared me> dropped it back to Drive and all was good for this trip.
After learning about this type of problem here at Focus Fanatics, I removed my Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). While looking very carefully at the plunger inside the IACV, I found a very small piece of rubber debris that was pinched between the plunger seal and the IACV body. When I found it, I thought NO WAY this tiny thing is my problem!!??!! At the same time I was happy thinking the debris COULD BE IT!!??!!
I removed the debris and problem was gone! I was really happy to get that crazy idle problem fixed without having to buy parts. Removing the IACV on my Duratec engine was very easy.
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Good catch! Alot of folks aren't so lucky and must fork over $$ for a new IAC.
Because the IAC is so prone to muck, it's always a good idea to thoroughly clean it any time it is removed - saves a headache later.
Because the IAC is so prone to muck, it's always a good idea to thoroughly clean it any time it is removed - saves a headache later.
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my friend had an 01 honda accord that did the same thing as OP's problem. he bought an, i guess the honda equivalent of, idle air control valve. i helped him replace it and that solved his problem.
Changed the solenoid "A" in trans... Car still shifts rough from 1st to 2nd, and took ICV off and checked for derby or any othe gunk, (it's a brand new ICV) cleaned it anyways. Took EGR valve off and cleaned that as well. Car will idle perfectly, but soon as put into gear and barely step on gas it goes to almost 2000rpm. You have to make car come back to a complete stop for the idle to drop back down, then it'll rev from 500-1000 back and forth. Soon as I shut AC off, the idle settles and smoothes itself back out. Getting very frustrated and confused.. Ive noticed that the cable next to the throttle cable that goes to the pedel is not tight it has like a 1/4 in play in it. its like the throttle or whatever that goes too is not closing all the way. i think its the kick shift or downshift cable not sure.... and now The check engine light is back on PO122 low voltage TPS.... I don't understand how is it the stupid TPS if its a BRAND NEW motor craft Dealer part??
Amc49 thank you for your help. I'm not trying it my way, I actually have no clue now what I'm doing?? I went back to reading all your post again, I'm going to attempt what you did with the manual TPS. Because obviously nothing I have done so far has done a dang thing. I know I know YOU ALREADY TOLD ME... I'm felling very confused. I'm going in morning to return this motorcraft Automatic TPS $48, and get the otheryou told me about 40 or so post ago. I just thought by replaceing the whole thing, like the stealership wants me too it would have worked. But I should have just listened to you since you had the same issues as me.
Yes, if done correctly and you haven't screwed it up previously. That would happen mounting it tight in the wrong spot. Again WHAT EXACT throttle body are you using, still the one out of the junkyard for a 2001? Have you had to cut your TPS connector and replace it with the later one??
I used a manual TPS and it still works perfectly. It MUST be set right though, using voltmeter .90 volt at throttle dead closed idle stop, and 4.5 volts plus at wide open throttle. You MUST be under 1.0 volt at idle. The code will set if you get below around .5 volt idle. The idle volt is more important than the full throttle volts.
I used a manual TPS and it still works perfectly. It MUST be set right though, using voltmeter .90 volt at throttle dead closed idle stop, and 4.5 volts plus at wide open throttle. You MUST be under 1.0 volt at idle. The code will set if you get below around .5 volt idle. The idle volt is more important than the full throttle volts.
You could if they use same switch mounting.
The point about cutting connector is this. If the junkyard TB was changed for the later 2003 one then you MUST cut the connector, as the later one is different and requires the later 2003 ATX TPS switch which IS available. If you cut for convenience of removing a 2001 part at the junkyard, well, that is not the same thing at all. Or, you still have the old stuff and no ATX TPS available for that one. In short your junkyard trip did nothing at all except drive you crazier.
Ford originally changed the TB because they got a rash of fails with ATX TPS that read too low and caused trouble, note your code. You're there. Why I set the MTX TPS at .9 volts, it gets away from the low volt issue to help. As soon as TPS goes over one volt, the PCM starts signalling to ramp up injectors for increasing load, why if the idle volts are at one volt plus you get all kinds of issues. PCM thinks you are not at idle anymore and screws things up.
You must be b-tchy about setting that voltage at idle, since PCM demands it. Now, if you could get ATX TPS, then it is preset to already do that, but it's not available any more. Thank Ford for that one, and should be enough frustration for you by now to look at another brand next new car time. Simply no excuse for what they did there except greed. The switch could've easily been recalibrated to make ATX switches by the millions. But no, they force you to rebuy a part that has nothing wrong with it to get the one you need. I don't like doing business with companies that do that stuff. To begin with, totally stupid from the getgo to design the TBs with different TPS indexes to begin with, there was no need to use different TBs based on trans type. They should've used same TB and TPS on both transmissions. Or more stupid there.
The point about cutting connector is this. If the junkyard TB was changed for the later 2003 one then you MUST cut the connector, as the later one is different and requires the later 2003 ATX TPS switch which IS available. If you cut for convenience of removing a 2001 part at the junkyard, well, that is not the same thing at all. Or, you still have the old stuff and no ATX TPS available for that one. In short your junkyard trip did nothing at all except drive you crazier.
Ford originally changed the TB because they got a rash of fails with ATX TPS that read too low and caused trouble, note your code. You're there. Why I set the MTX TPS at .9 volts, it gets away from the low volt issue to help. As soon as TPS goes over one volt, the PCM starts signalling to ramp up injectors for increasing load, why if the idle volts are at one volt plus you get all kinds of issues. PCM thinks you are not at idle anymore and screws things up.
You must be b-tchy about setting that voltage at idle, since PCM demands it. Now, if you could get ATX TPS, then it is preset to already do that, but it's not available any more. Thank Ford for that one, and should be enough frustration for you by now to look at another brand next new car time. Simply no excuse for what they did there except greed. The switch could've easily been recalibrated to make ATX switches by the millions. But no, they force you to rebuy a part that has nothing wrong with it to get the one you need. I don't like doing business with companies that do that stuff. To begin with, totally stupid from the getgo to design the TBs with different TPS indexes to begin with, there was no need to use different TBs based on trans type. They should've used same TB and TPS on both transmissions. Or more stupid there.
Ok so this morning at 7am, I went out and removed the junkyard throttle body, the brand new motorcraft TPS for ATX, removed cables. Reinstalled my original TB and got a new TPS for MTX. I did exactly what you did. Modified my TPS, except using a washer I used a heavy duty back strap with 3 holes in it, it was like it was made for back of TPS. Clocked it to .90v at close and it gradually goes up as the throttle opens at all the way open it was around 4.67 or so. I tightened it down.. Put everything back together. Reset battery.. Let car idle for 10mins, then drove around... CAR RUNS PERFECTLY NOW!!! Shifts and downshifts on point, revs and idles like it rolled off show room floor, with 126,00miles on it. 
AMC49 I cannot thank you and everyone else enough. Thank you thank you for all of y'all's help. DEFANTLY LIKE THEY SAY "A HAPPY WIFE IS A HAPPY LIFE" and all my frustration is gone. For now!! Fingers crossed and hoping for the best. Thank you all again
AMC49 I cannot thank you and everyone else enough. Thank you thank you for all of y'all's help. DEFANTLY LIKE THEY SAY "A HAPPY WIFE IS A HAPPY LIFE" and all my frustration is gone. For now!! Fingers crossed and hoping for the best. Thank you all againI also need to add.... All this stress and headache coulda been avoided, if I woulda just did what you said to do in the beginning! Defiantly kicked my own A** on this one. I feel so stupid for not reading better and understanding what you mentioned. THANK YOU AGAIN AMC49
Worth every penny as long as you lock it in head for future use. Even if you think you are right always be open at least to other ideas.
I as well do not know nearly everything and often I lurk in/on other sites to pick up ideas. I'm not real original but I can copy and improve on the copy while doing so. Got the TB idea while looking at an aftermarket TB pic one day and realized the difference in the clock positions for different TPS that Ford uses.
Heavy duty backstrap? Hey, you do what you gotta do, if it works. Describe it further, someone else may be able to use it easier than making the specialty washer I made. Idea not hard to understand, I need to get off my butt and learn how to post pics of mine so easier to understand how to do. If you know how don't hesitate to.
I as well do not know nearly everything and often I lurk in/on other sites to pick up ideas. I'm not real original but I can copy and improve on the copy while doing so. Got the TB idea while looking at an aftermarket TB pic one day and realized the difference in the clock positions for different TPS that Ford uses.
Heavy duty backstrap? Hey, you do what you gotta do, if it works. Describe it further, someone else may be able to use it easier than making the specialty washer I made. Idea not hard to understand, I need to get off my butt and learn how to post pics of mine so easier to understand how to do. If you know how don't hesitate to.
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Change your AC compressor is shutting down and locking up the pulley that keeps on going the clutch is not is engaged and is stopping the whole thing and making it harder for the engine to turn if you bypass it or get a new one your engine will run fine I have a 07 Ford focus sedan 2.0 that does the same thing
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Hi Jordan,
It is somewhat strange that your first post at FF is providing help to a thread that is about 8 years old, and nobody has replied inside of this thread since your post today. If your car has the problem of AC compressor clutch lock-up & is not spinning and/or this is slowing-down your belt speed... do you plan to fix your car? You did not mention your repair, you said "does the same thing", as in present tense, so is this still a problem for you? Also, the OP did not have your "same thing" did he?
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