I'm not like that God fella, I take all comers. No questions asked.
lol
Smooth surfaces are good for dry flow; as in the intake manifold, TB, etc. And this is the smoother the better.
For wet flow you want a little rougher. It evens the flow in the entire port, runner or whathaveyou.
It has to do with Boundary Layers. On a smooth surface the fastest flow is in the center of the column of air. Moving outward from the the air moves slower. Think of it kinda like the rings in a tree. With a very smooth surface there isn't much change from the center to just before the walls. But at the wall air is very slow. The thickness of the air near the wall depends on how fast the column of air is moving, average. The faster it moves, the thicker the slow portion near the wall.
Now with walls that are a little rough, that thickness of slow air is less at all flows. The fastest is still the center but now there is more of a progressive difference in speed from there to the wall.
It's something you really need not concern yourself with. It's just kinda neat to know. If you want to read up a bit more, search out Reynolds Numbers, and form there you'll find a few more terms you won't understand.
Now on porting the TB, as noted above, you want as smooth as possible. When I did my S&G one I used a dremel to knock the fins off and rough sand it smooth. Then I used a buffing ball, drill and compound to make it all shinny. Moderate speed and don't sit in one spot or you'll melt the plastic. Not a real big deal so long as you take you time. I spent all of 30 minutes doing this one:
I never used that TB though. Was simply done to prove plastic could be polished.
Far as Porting goes. Some will go to extremes and epoxy around the neck down and grind that to less of a drastic change. That will help. But it's something you have to feel comfortable doing. Just knocking down the sharp edges will help also and you can smooth it out some W/O epoxy, just don't go overboard. Also, don't touch the throttle blade. You want that to seal against the bore and not leak. If it doesn't you'll have an even worse hanging idle and the IAC will go apeshit trying to figure out what's wrong.
SVT TB won't fit a zetec manifold.
SVT cams, in theory, won't work in a zetec head. I say theory because where there's a will there's a way. I have a slew of parts here and multiple heads. I should see what I can mix and match once to see what it would really take. But my guess is you'll have to machine the tappets down a fair amount and maybe clearance the head for the cam lobes (like you do with the big Crower cams). But then there's the problem of finding good used SVT cams. Being virtually no SVT owner does aftermarket cams, they are few and far.
If the Cougar is 58mm and the Focus is 55mm, I don't see any gains there. A [

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] hair really makes no difference.