There's an idler screw you need to move which will set your idle. Its currently screwed in too tight, you need to loosen it.

 

I already tried that, I loosened it and it didn't do nothing.

 

if it idles bad, take the whole thing off and try it again from the start..make sure everything sits ok..you know you had to do something wrong if it started after the install

 

I can't believe you can still get info as bad as that. haha. The screw has nothing to do with it. your idle air control will set your idle at stock no matter where the screw is. if its' idling irratically, it's only one thing. an air leak. If you used the gasket that came from fc it's usually very thin in between the big part and the idle air bypass part. if you squeeze too tight it often times pooches out. If you get air leaking from between the two your idle will go higher because you're letting more air into the tb under the big flapper than it's supposed to get. the idea is, the big flapper shuts, and the little area is the only place the engine can get air from, the valve in there controlls how much, and keeps it at idle rpm's. if some of the air is going down into the little area and bleeding under to the big area you get uncontrolled air going in and you get too high an idle. there have been thousands of problems with the fc tb and 99% of them are air leaks.

Solution: Go buy some tb gasket material from an autoparts store and lay it on the bottom of your new tb and tap around the edges with a hammer lightly, that'll give you an exact template to cut it out and it won't be so thin in that area, actually you can leave extra there intentionally and it won't interfere with anything. If you still can't get it to seal, get some gasket goo, either gasket eliminator or even silicone and put it on both sides of your gasket very thin, tighten it down and let it sit until it's completely dry, like overnight.

The screw is there for two reasons, to make sure and have a stop so the flapper does not come to rest inside the tb, which after time can cause it to stick, so it should be just barely engaged a micron before the flapper engages the tb housing. The other reason is for if you disable your idle air valve, like with the 70m tb's. when you have no more little area, you set the setscrew where you want it to idle and thats what it does, always, no fluctuations. this will trip the cel, so be warned, its not for everyone.

Hopefully one day this info will be made up in a how to and made a sticky, not because it comes up once a week, but becaus some people hear from someone else and perpetuate bad information that those who read it then pass on to others.

g

 

also, if you happen to knock off one of the vacuum hoses from the back of the intake mani, it will cause a vacuum leak and the same result, but we're going with the assumption that working on top will not make this happen to the parts you can't reach.

good luck, tb's are a great mod

g

 

I can't believe you can still get info as bad as that. haha. The screw has nothing to do with it.

When I installed my TB the screw had plenty to do with my idle.

 

Flip your TPS around 180 degrees, that will work..... trust me.....

I had to do this on my car and it worked perfectly. No more hanging idle. Also so you know, this was posted on FJ and alot of other places so it's not an uncommon thing to do.

 

yeah, S2's got it right. did you look at the instructions that show you just how to mount the tps on the tb? this ought to take care of the problem, but do make sure that adjustment screw is set right so your tb doesn't stick

 

I completely removed that idler screw, didn't do anything but raise the idle for me.

 

it'll raise the idle a bit because it's opening the butterfly slightly, but it keeps the butterfly from sticking in the tb bore

 

Yeah it didn't seem to make much difference for the sticking. I played with it for a long time on my first TB install and it still has the 'notorious' FC TB sticking issue. The idle hanging is another thing entirely.....

I'll have to try that again though, see if it makes any noticeable difference for me.

 

Like I said, the screw can hold the tb open a bit, and let air thru, but this will not do anything for a high idle. The problem this thread is about is a vacuum leak, 99% of the problems with fc tb's is when people put them on, they have a vacuum leak and it causes a high/irradic idle. The screw can in no way fix the problem this guy is having, unless by accident it was adjusted too far from fc and is holding the flapper open too much, which isn't likely because still, the iac valve will compensate and the car will continue to idle at factory setting.

g

 

Ok, i flipped the tps around 180 degrees and it idled the same. so for the hell of it i took apart the TPS to see if anything might be broken inside. Found nothing that looked broken. when i took it apart i saw like 3 metal clip things on the bottom by where u connect the tps and on top there were 2 metal pieces that was connected to the plastic piece that goes around. all the pieces looked intact and nothin broken. all i saw was some whitish lubricant on the inside. i cleaned the lubricant off on the 2 metal pieces and reassembled everything back. put it back on the tb and hooked it up. it's idling at like 1000 now which is better than before(1200-1400). So I'm definitely thinking it has to be the TPS now. Perhaps if i cleaned the inside of the TPS with an electronics safe cleaner, do you think it will do anything? oh and should i be looking for anything else when i took apart the TPS? thanks.

 

Just asking....

On the TB you got, you got the additional automatic bracket right (did you buy it used or new). Also you got the TPS mounted into the proper holes on the side of the FC TB right?

 

Just asking....

On the TB you got, you got the additional automatic bracket right (did you buy it used or new). Also you got the TPS mounted into the proper holes on the side of the FC TB right?

Yeah I got the bracket new(It came with the fc tb) and i'm positive I mounted the TPS in the right holes. I checked www.myfordfocus.com and installed it into the second holes(middle) which is for the 01 ATX. So it's def not the holes.

 

Just making sure.... [thumb]

 

Ok, i finally got a new TPS for an '02 foci auto(couldn't find one for an '01 ASAP) from autozone and installed it to the TB using the 01atx holes. now it idles smooth but now the car shifts like crap. from first to second it shifts real early and it's just annoying. it's dark out now so i will try to install the TPS using the 02atx holes first thing tomorrow. gees, i fix one problem and another rises... will keep ya'll up to date.

 

I know you can get a TPS for a manual tranny without the TB but I thought that the TPS for the auto trannies where different and you usually have to buy the entire TB/TPS assembly ?

Did the part number on your original TPS match the one you bought ?


You might want to put the original TPS back on like you had it and reset the EEC.
Then go drive for about 15-30 minutes and see if anything improves.

 

yeah TPS for auto are different. I didn't want to buy the whole TB/TPS combo so I just ordered one for a 02 zetec and put it on. It idles fine but after driving all day today i got about 3 problems I noticed.

1) My Magnaflow Exhaust sounds all muffled or like it's clogged

2) Tranny shifts real early from 1st to 2nd and sometimes into OD

3) Car feels like it has lost a bit of power

Oh and the original TPS is shot, 'cause it idles like at 1000 to 1400 RPM with the original TPS. So now I'm thinking I have to get the right TPS somewhere without the whole TPS/TB combo. If I knew I had to go through all this trouble I would have never bought the FC TB. What a pain in the A**. SO once again I'm baffled. Please if anyone knows where I can obtain a 2001 2.0 L Zetec with Auto TPS without the whole TB/TPS combo please let me know. I don't care if it's used or new, as long as it's in good working condition. Thanks.

P.S.
Just wondering... With more air my zetec is getting, it wouldn't make changes to how my tranny shifts, right? I highly doubt it but just wanted to ask... Thanks again.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...s/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7964902476&category=33673&sspagename=WDVW


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...s/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7965432547&category=33558&sspagename=WDVW

g

 

Ya, the 65mmTB isn't really that difficult to install but you do need to align/install the TPS correctly.

Installing it incorrectly can easily bust the TPS when you mash the pedal.

It's like you put the TPS on and you should only have to turn it maybe a 1/4 inch to align the TPS holes to the TB.


They should really have some instructions/pictures for the install.

You're not the first to break a TPS from a 65mmTB install.

Lucky, I paided close attention when I removed mine off the stock TB and knew how how much you should have to turn the TPS to align the holes.

 

Very true Micro.....

OT - in all honestly, ALL the aftermarker products should come with more direct and extensive instructions. It's sad really when people that buy their products have to get help on the installs other places (like message boards) and rely on someone else's opinion, etc.

 

OT:

So far:

Volant intake - No instructions

Marcy Duratec CAI - No instructions - You have to "know" to go to their website for the instructions. At least they provided something.

Iceman intake - No instructions

FC 65mmTB - No instructions

Magnaflow Catback - No instructions

FS SCT chip - Came with instructions

Diablosport Delta chip - Came with instructions

Eibach pro kit springs - No instructions

KS Halo Headlights - No instructions

Bumper Clear corners - No instructions

Euro upper and lower grilles - No instructions

Poyauto Clear lens grille - No instructions

Ford Racing Pedals - Came with instructions



If it wasn't for FF, some of these parts might not be installed.

 

LOL exactly Microtonal......

Honestly I think sometimes I should run some of the companies... I don't understand why they wouldn't have decent instructions. It should only take an hour and a few pics and typing skills to put together a decent set of instructions. It's pretty sad really.

 

Ok I think it def has to be the TPS still so I ordered one for my year and engine from focussalvage.com

Hopefully everything will be a 100% afterwards. IF this doesn't fix everything I give up, I'm gonna put the old TB on.