[ZXTHR33]

I recently bought one of the now popular Roush Stage 2 suspension kits from nthcoast for my 04 ZX3. The car is currently riding on Eibach Sportlines with everything else stock (how I bought the car, not my choice). So now that I have front and rear springs with shocks and dampers to match and a larger rear sway I'm ready to go.

My question is, what else will I need when going to install all of this? I've seen people recommend camber bolts, control arms, some kind of mounts I think, etc. I don't have a lot of money to spend right now, so basically:

1. What extra parts do I absolutely need to get this done right?
2. What extra parts do I probably want, but could do without if I had to?
3. What extra parts would be fun and help everything, but are not necessary?

I know that I'll need an alignment after the install, but is there anything else to this? I've done a little bit of suspension work on other cars of mine, but nothing like installing a whole kit and everything. I just want everything to work well, and to prevent things from wearing out or breaking. The ride and performance will have to be worlds better too, I assume. Thanks for any help!

 

[Geezer]

Plan on getting rear camber bolts at a minimum. It is a very cost effective way for adjusting rear camber. The install should be very straight forward. Just remember that all final torquing is done with weight on the suspension. Some ramps will be helpful to accomplish this. Everything you need should come with the Roush kit.

 

[alk3civichater]

What about the suspension bushing kit? Would that be necessary? Or a good idea?

 

[Geezer]

Not necessary unless you know your bushing are bad. A 2004 should have good life left in them if they haven't been abused.

 

[focus129]

I upgraded to H&R springs and Koni shocks/struts about a year ago on my '03 ZX3. The only issue I had was getting the front struts out/in. You really gotta work them around, and, yes you can get them out/in without disconnecting the axles. Also, remember to get a 4 wheel alignment when you are done.

 

[jateman]

Lots of PB Blaster, go to Central Florida Motorsports and get the rear camber bolts and the front camber plates, do it all at once. Dial in all the negative camber they give you, its real easy, and your almost good to go, just align the sumbitch

 

[wrc_fan]

I completed the same upgrade last month on an 2004 ZX3, the changeover was very straight forward. I had to replace the rear lower control arms because of the bushings corroding, bonding to the bolt, and breaking loose from the control arm when installing the rear springs. Though my car may be a unique case, as it had 65K miles and spent two winters on Michigan's salt covered highways. If your car's lived in GA its whole life, it shouldn't be a problem for you.

Beyond that I didn't add any other parts when doing the install (no camber plates, or bolts). The alignment place was able to get it back to factory specs, but the rear camber from the factory is like -2/+.5 (don't quote me on that)? I would recommend the rear bolts to make sure you can get less negative camber in the rear than in the front (turn in will be better). I'll probably add them once I can save up for some new wheels and tires.

 

[Cajun Boy876]

Ok, can someone explain to me the adv. of camber kits? What do they do?

 

[Geezer]

In a nutshell, camber kits allow you to reduce or increase camber in limited amounts but more than what can be done with the stock adjustments. Foci tend to have too much camber especially after the car is lowered. This results in inside edge tire wear. The most common rear system is camber bolts. This is an eccentric bolt in the upper control arm. It moves the position of the upper arm in and out ever so slightly by the use of a cam on the bolt. It's a very inexpensive way to get +/- 1 degree of camber and is easy to install and adjust. In the front a special camber plate is used. Most have a center piece in the plate that rotates. The rotation moves a hole that the strut shaft goes through. The positioning of the hole moves the top of the strut inwards or outwards thus changing camber. There are other camber plates that are slotted. These require some surgery (cutting and grinding) to the top of the strut tower to allow installation. They are a little more complex but generally allow a broader range of adjustment (cost more too).

 

[seige123]

I installed mine straight foward and did not have to buy no camber bolts or anything. Did the alignment and everything as back to stock. Been driving my car now for about a month on the roush stg2 and no problems. If you do the install carefully and do not put too much force on the suspension parts(lower control arms and such) you should have no problems. Just like wrc_fan said.

 

[Blurvfocus]

If you're only dropping an inch or so you won't need camber plates, just the alignment.

 

[Cajun Boy876]

Well I have a RSH Stg 2 so its a 1.5 at least. So those camber bolts only make a 1 degree difference is that enough to actually effect anything? Does it make it handle better or just prevents tire wear? When you get alignment will you have to tell the mechanics that you have plates and bolt?

 

[Blurvfocus]

Camber has to do with handling, but too much of a good thing will wear the inside edges of your tires off. According to the report I got with my last alignment, the specified range is -2.33deg to.29deg. (minus figures pull the tops of the tires in). That's quite a range. At 1.5 inches I think you're still all right with no camber bolts. If you ask me, the camber bolts are mickey mouse- they don't look very strong (I'm sure my impact could wring one right off), and I wouldn't use them if you don't really need them.

If you do put camber bolts in, I'd mention this to the tech. And be prepared to pay extra for the alignment if they have to touch them. No, I'm not kidding!