Use of the correct anti-seize and a torque wrench will prevent them from getting stuck and breaking off the next time you try to change them. I highly recommend you spend a few extra bucks now to get the right tools instead of spending more in the future to have a shop remove them for you.

 

I've never torqued my spark plugs in any car that I've ever owned and I've never had a problem though I've tightened so many fasteners in so many different types of material that I'm fairly well aware of how much to tighten various things in various metals. You just have to know the material your working on as an aluminum head is softer than iron. If you don't trust your feel for tightening them then I'd buy a 3/8" torque wrench if I were you.
A small dab of anti-seize is probably a good idea though. You can buy a little single use pouch at the parts counter at most auto parts stores for a buck.

 

I've never torqued my spark plugs ... I'm fairly well aware of how much to tighten

I do the same with moderate torque values, like my oil drain plug. Critical components with high torque values are easy to misjudge. And dangerous if wrong.

 

I do not use anti-seize. NGK also recommends against it. I only install NGK spark plugs and the OEM spark plugs are NGK.





"NGK spark plugs feature trivalent plating. This silver or chrome-colored finish on the threads is designed to provide corrosion resistance against moisture and chemicals. The coating also acts as a release agent during spark plug removal. NGK spark plugs are installed at the factory dry, without lubrication or anti-seize."

5 Things You Should Know About Spark Plugs - NGK Spark Plugs

The five things you should know about spark plugs include information on anti-seize, corona stain, gapping fine wire, torque and copper spark plugs.

ngksparkplugs.com

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If you're going to work on cars, spend money on a decent torque wrench. I'd suspect that the parts chains probably loan them as well.

 

If you use anti seize, or any other lubricant, reduce the torque to compensate. Lubricated threads must be torqued less than dry threads.

 

Thanks! I only have a 1/2" drive torque wrench, not a 3/8" one but I just discovered I have an adapter so I'll use that. It won't affect anything correct since torque is a measure of rotational force?

Also how much should I reduce the torque by since I'm using anti-seize? I believe the torque spec is 133in./lbs so that converts roughly to 11 ft./lbs.

 

how much should I reduce the torque by since I'm using anti-seize

I don't know the precise number, I go by feel. I over torqued a spark plug once and it took me two days with liquid wrench to loosen without breaking it. I once read "three fingers until it's snug." Seems about right to me.

 

Woohoo! I got my spark plugs changed yesterday. Fuel mileage is better and much better throttle response. Glad I changed them before the recommended interval. One of them was cracked. Also are those oil deposits on that one spark plug and should I be worried?

 

You don't have the best angle for viewing the electrodes but it might be oil or maybe just an excessive build up of carbon.
You never said what the mileage was on these plugs btw.
You won't know if you have better mileage after only one day unless you drove a few hundred miles lol. It will usually give a marginal increase when replacing iridium plugs on a modern engine(1 or 2 mpg might be possible in most situations). It should smooth out your idle. Your PCM largely adjusts for ignition and fuel/air issues so changing plugs doesn't usually give quite the noticeable difference like older cars that came with copper plugs or had less advanced ignition and fuel management systems.
The 2012 and up regular 2.0L comes with NGK iridium plugs stock that are good for about 100k miles so I'm curious what the mileage is on yours.

 

Mine was at 122,000 kms so about 74,500 miles. I noticed a loss of power and throttle response so I thought it was time to change since I was changing my oil too.
Thanks for the response!

 

Anti seize

• Aluminum 1600 degrees f
• Copper 1800 degrees f
• Nickel 2400 degrees f

The video you linked recommends nickel, for its higher temp rating. Spark plugs can get up to 1500 f, close to the limit for aluminum, which may be OK, but the higher limit of nickel may be worth a few dollars more. I used aluminum last time, no problems I know of.

 

The firing end of the plug gets up to 1400-1500° in some very extreme heat ranges and conditions, not the rest of the plug most notably the steel threaded shell. The threaded metal shell is usually about the same temp as the cylinder head. Most of the heat quickly dissipates up the length of the plug from the tip to the copper core into the insulator and then finally from there to the metal shell. The heads that the plugs screw into are made of a cast aluminum alloy.
Aluminum anti seize is fine for these head temps but as has been mentioned anti-seize isn't recommended by plug makers for most applications. I don't recall ever using anti-seize on plugs myself but if you have a particular engine design that plugs have a reputation for seizing in or breaking then a VERY small dab is probably ok, like barely any. People often overuse any kind of thread sealer or lubricant. It happens at my job all the time unfortunately.
Anything you put on threads to either seal or lubricate will invariably alter the torque to thread shear threshold and it renders the specified torque inaccurate as you would actually be overtightening if you used anti-seize and followed the manufacturer's spec.
My boss has a tendency to overtighten the things we work on because he won't understand that using teflon tape makes it so threads never really tighten. Teflon and/or thread sealer is necessary on many of the materials that we work with though. I have taken things apart to find broken threads...

 

I work on Honda, and Yamaha outboards at work. Never had had a spark plug not come out. Vast majority of boats are used in Puget Sound. The bigger Hondas are based on car motors. I don't use anti-seize. Pretty much all plugs come with a plated coating. I would probably use it on an engine that has known problems getting them out.

For anybody not experienced, I would say use a torque wrench, 3/8 size.