good post with good information.

I say sticky. any other mods agree?

 

That's awesome! Thanks for the info. I have a high mileage ATX so this is going to be handy.

 

sticky for sure!

 

Indeed. If I had a nickel for every auto tranny shifting weird thread I've seen...

 

Well done! Thanks![thumb]

 

Bringing this from the dead

1. My problem has gotten significantly worse as of a week ago. My engine light has come on and my car will not shift into OD. When in 3rd if OD is on my car will rev (to redline if I push hard enough) but will not actually accelerate.

I'm wondering if this problem would need solenoid 'A' and 'C' replaced or just one? From the explanation on solenoid C it sounds as if that needs to be replaced for sure which brings me to my next question

2. Does anyone have the part number for SS 'C'?

 

Same problem going on as the previous post. Found out its the solenoid A.

 

My OD went out and had the same problem as above post and it was also only A. You should be able to scan it at a parts store and see what the check engine light says is malfunctioning.

 

o.o

ok im just swapping out the shifter solenoids of my parts engine to my wrecked cars engine.. XD yeah I have a lazy shift on that car it sounded like I was missing 1-2 everytime and pegging the rpm's

hehe I'm eventually gunna have to get to my blue focus's its starting to do that aswell

 

Ya i know im that guy bringing a thread from the dead... but thats what the SEARCH function is for (more people need to do this!) ok enough rant and rave from me...

I have a question on which "noid" to replace... One night going to get food from my shop i was driving easy and all of a sudden it shifted really hard from first to second i think, or from second to third and my O/D off light started flashing orange/yellow which means trans problem and needs to get fixed... I went in made it to wendys got food(20 mins) and then went out and started it up and no lights nothing... drove back and nothing happened. So that leads me to think that "noid c"

But also my trans slips/revs up every shift everyday from 2 to 3, but that means it is "noid E"

So overall the main question is should i do both? Or just C or just E?
I also will be changing the fluid and filter as i do this just need to know the best way to go, and if i can save money then thats always good too.

Thanks everyone sorry to bring it back from death but thats searching for ya!

 

might as well do both while youre in there, fluid/filter will be 40-50 bucks every time you open the trans and each 'noid is what, 20 bucks?

I dont mind you bumping my thread from forever ago, thats what its here for []

 

Maybe we could add to this with some Ford part #'s? This might help for those who need to replace it.

It seems to be that the Solenoids "A" and "E" have the part number of: XS4Z-7H148AA
Thats the only number I know though.

 

http://www.shinseiauto.com/japanese/transtar/usford4f27e04.pdf

Solenoid:
- EPC 1 99-Up 5A-279 XS4Z-7G383AA
- Shift - On/Off 2 99-Up 5A-280 XS4Z-7H148AA
- Shift - PWM 3 99-Up 5A-281 XS4Z-7G484AA

 

Much Appreciated![woot] +Rep!

 

i have never done any work on my focus before i am new to the focus i have been an escort guy for a long time. i have a bad solenoid a and c. i am getting the parts in the mail but have no idea how to remove and reinstall them or even where the solenoids are located. I need help ASAP! can anyone out there help me out

 

Confused shifter

I'm diggin your threads, lots of good info I see but I haven't come across a match to my issue. I have a 2003 SE w/2.3 automatic and 124xxx. It drives great but some times it acts as if it doesn't know what gear it wants to be in. It u usually happens at low speeds, like when slowing down or driving in slow traffic, the car will slam when down shifting. The other issue is when up shifting, it tends to shift in to 4th or OD to quickly causing it to bog down. Is this a solenoid issues? it doesn't slip or rev, just slams or over shifts. Thanks for the help.

I'm FNG to this group so sorry if I broke any rule or asked a fool question. Your thread just seamed full of knowledge, thanks

 

[dunno]I've been having trans shifting problems where my focus will not go into first gear at times and then will drive completely normal at other times. when 1st gear will not engage, it just sits in 2nd gear and gives a very slow take off, delays shifting into above gears and slams into gears when it does finally shift. when slowing down, it seems like it will try to shift into 1st but won't go in so it just slams back into 2nd. if I try to manually shift, it usually won't work and will just shift itself, even if the shifter is on 1st. i was reading an earlier post about shift solenoids and the purpose of each and i think its ss d. can anyone confirm this or any other ideas as to what could be wrong?

 

Thank you for the info.

I recently changed all solenoids and intermediate band, as I had issues with 2nd and 4th gear. Now, my reverse doesn't work.

Wondering, which Solenoids control reverse?

Thank you all in advance.

 

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=328121&highlight=reverse

Wonder if this thread might help you, it's the most recent on an automatic reverse issue I remember.

Luck!

 

Thank you. I will look into it now!

 

Hello folks,

I have an 05 Ford Focus automatic transmission with a 2.0 engine.

My reverse went out after changing intermediate band and solenoids? I'm thinking I replaced solenoid with another bad one and want to change it before taking it to mechanic. Anyone know which Solenoid(s) are for reverse?

 

I changed "A" solenoid, because the code was P0750. Now it will not shift into 3rd at all. It is like I put it into Neutral? It is worse than before? Could I have gotten a bad Solenoid? (Auto Zone) OR "maybe" I need, an EPC, because now the only codes that cum up ate TPS out of calibration?

 

You're going to have to drop the pan and see what you did wrong. You should be able to check the solenoid before you install it.

 

pray tell how does one go about this mysterious thing called testing the shift solenoid? I have searched the internet over and found almost nothing about how to actually do this, specifically on solenoid A. I have an ohmmeter but do not know the procedure. I have basically lost third gear, flares out on the 2-3 shift---revs to the moon---no engagement. Any help would be appreciated.

 

With the old or new solenoid removed from the trans, basic testing is done with any 12V power supply. A good solenoid will make an audible click when powered. With some creativity, you could also do this same test while the solenoid is installed in the trans and use/test the car wiring at the same time; to do this you would disconnect the connector at the PCM and apply your test-power at this spot. Hearing the click-sound might be difficult if you do this with the trans pan installed, so removing the pan is likely required... or use a stethoscope or make-shift one by using a screwdriver on your ear.

-PCM C175T picture

C175T Pin-42 = SSA
Place 12V on this pin and you will hear SSA click (if it is alive & if the wiring in the car is healthy). Solenoids are already grounded when properly installed in the trans valve body, so they only need the 12V signal to energize. The test-power-supply used should be grounded at the car battery, car frame, wherever is best for you.


Separately, (on a test bench) you could verify air-flow passes thru the solenoid once powered.

Have you scanned your car OBD for codes? -this is a free service at most car part stores.

 

Harsh 2nd to 1st shift when coming to a stop. Solenoid D?

Hey guys, do you think I should replace Solenoid D?

My problem is that coming to a stop, the transmission seems to shift roughly to 1st when I'm down to about 5km/h. Also sometimes, the transmission will only shift to 1st when I have completely stopped, and yes it is rough like a gentle quick bump from a car from behind.

Thanks in advance for all your replies [ffrocks]

 

Sure you don't have a bad lower rear trans mount? That would act like that.

In a mess there, D if truly that should stop you from getting into first at all, not just on downshift. And E needed for 2 as well, if not coming off at the switch to low then could be E sticking on too. Solenoids generally mess up either way, they can't choose to not work going down but work fine going up.

 

Thanks! I'd like to believe that my lower rear trans mount is good because I don't feel any severe vibrations when idling or even when in gear. But will have it checked!

I get it... So, the solenoids are the least concern at the moment then. I'll have have the trans mount/s checked first, then the fluid changed a couple of times or so.. Thanks again for replying! I'll post back with whatever the results are. []