I was trying to get more info. on what happens when to narrow down some suspects.
The general list above for ways extra air can get to the engine to increase RPM will have to suffice.
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In normal operation the RPM is high on start up, higher when it's colder.
That drops as the engine warms, eventually settling at a normal idle speed. If you happen to be driving already, you won't see normal idle until coming to a stop down the road.
Once it warms up and idle is normal, every action that affects idle speed is compensated for by the IAC. Put an automatic in gear, IAC needs to supply more air to prevent stalling. Even power steering use or high battery charging loads on the alternator are compensated for.
Witnessing these operations take place can let you know if the IAC is working properly, all without picking up a tool.
To see if the throttle body (TB) and the throttle cable are moving smoothly with no hangups you need to open the hood and operate them by hand (engine off) to check their physical operation.
Beyond those items, the next suspect for incorrect idle speed is a vacuum leak letting extra air enter the engine. Books can be written on that alone, beyond looking for simple faults like disconnected/broken hoses I'll leave that to Google for now.
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Trying to find out IF it settled to a normal idle speed at any time and THEN started to rev higher was part of attempting to diagnose from a distance. The more detail about what it does when the better.
Idle speed is the steady RPM an engine settles to with no throttle inputs.
"The RPM rises on it's own at idle speed." is a contradiction, so I can't tell from that if it idles high, settles to normal idle THEN it increases, starts rising after you take it out of gear, or what else it might be doing.